JonGX

I finally got around to swapping these out last weekend. The process took about 20min per side - very quick and easy. If you are lifting the car completely off the ground like I did, be sure to support the side of the axel you are working on so that it doesn't drop when you remove the top shock bolt. It was a really easy swap and the male electrical connector on the KYB was a perfect fit for the factory female connector.

The ride quality is really nice and has improved from the old (75k) shocks that were on there. I assume it is now much closer to how it rode when it was new. The old shocks were not actively leaking, but the outer metal sleeve (the part that travels up and down with the rod) was rusted through in some places so I imagine it would be a matter of time before dirt got in and broke down the seals and created a leak.

As someone noted in a post above, I also ordered the factory brackets/insulators and replaced those. One goes on each side of the body mount. My originals were actually in pretty good shape and probably would have been fine to reuse, but I wasn't sure and chose to replace them.

stapletron

I was able to install front and back this past weekend. I am not super great at wrenching, but had supervision and some help from my mechanic dad. Everything you need to know is in the first post. I did take off a couple abs line brackets on the front just to be safe when removing the strut. I ordered a full set of stubby Allen wrenches, bondhus, same as the single in Acrad's post. Found on Amazon, but price has gone up. Anyhow, thanks to all who helped gather info. Just wanted to confirm its very doable over a weekend with minimal skills. Don't spare the penetrating oil, and take time with the Allen screws. Did not take pics, we were racing against the rain.

Romanova

For the fronts where the special tool is referenced in the manual for removing the bracket, did you find this necessary or where you able to use an appropriately sized wrench to remove it?

I ordered the rear shocks and am comfortable doing those and I have a spring compressor so doing the fronts should be no problem, I'm just a bit nervous about the sway bar and removing the shock assembly from the vehicle...

stapletron

Oh, the special tool I did not have. I just used a shallow socket on a ratchet. A wrench might be tough, you need a little clearance and the wrench will be hitting the bracket.
the sway bar, mine had some hydraulic pressure on it, so took a little help to get back in place. Would definitely have help, jack, or lift and something sturdy to press it back into position.
we used a 4x4 post cut to size to keep each corner from dropping uncontrollably. Then use the same post under the sway bar, and just dropped the lift a little bit at a time and guided back into place.
perhaps I should not understate the additional comfort I had because I had a retired mechanic there to make sure I didn't mess up, and that I did things the easy, but correct way.

Romanova

Rears are easy to install. I'd suggest a ratcheting 17mm wrench to speed things up. I didn't even need to hold the body of the shock while removing the top bolt. Just know that you'll have to jack up each side a bit to compress the shock enough where you can start the threads on the top bolt. Honestly, took about 15 minutes per side.

Romanova

A different approach to the fronts:


Seems pretty doable without having to drop the sway bar.

pinoyesv6

For those who have third party electronic shocks.
Have you scanned your ecu to see if there were any trouble codes after you completed the install?
I installed the AIRSUSFAT brand ones from Amazon about 2 years ago. I knew I was getting into some shady stuff because they were super cheap at the time and shipped from Hong Kong. I was swapping my wheels the other day and decided to scan my ECU to see if there were any trouble codes, and I noticed that I got an error coming from my rear struts saying that it couldn't see my rear shocks. I didn't get a check engine light because it wasn't emissions related. It would explain why the I didn't notice a difference at the different suspension settings but overall still better than riding on blown shocks.

JonGX

interesting suggestion. I have a copy of Techstream but did not scan the ECU to see if there were any stored codes related to the shocks. The ones I bought for the rear were the OE supplier (KYB) for the Toyota-branded part and I bought them from a very reputable supplier so I am fairly confident that I wouldn't have any error codes, but I will try to remember to scan the ECU later this week.

JonGX

good video - thanks for sharing. the only purpose of disconnecting the sway bar is to provide enough articulation in the corner you are working on to remove the shock/coil assembly. since I was replacing the sway bar bushings (all 4) while doing the front shocks, I had to disconnect the sway bar anyways. it was challenging to get it bolted back up by myself, but I was able to do it with the help of a second jack and some wood blocks.

edit: i did this while the vehicle was on jack stands close to the ground. reconnecting the sway bar if the vehicle were lifted above you would be really challenging because it would be harder to get the appropriate leverage to get it back into place to line up the bolt holes on the brackets

Romanova

Explain the challenge please because that's the biggest hold up for me doing this job myself. Is it because the bar is heavy? It it because of the pressure associated with the KDSS system? Is it just too awkward for one person to try and do too many things at once? If I drop the two brackets that the skid plate bolts to, then undo the sway bar at each end, is it just going to fall down gracefully or forcefully? Is it reasonably easy to do one side at a time for the reattachment provided you have a second jack and some wood blocks? The wood blocks just make it where you have less to jack?

Thanks. I'm all about saving a ton of money by doing it myself but neither way (mentioned here with the service manual data or the YouTube video) really cover the process with the detail needed where I would feel comfortable doing it myself. I just don't want to get to the failure point where I can't get past a certain step.

Acrad

I have wondered if KDSS test mode via Techstream or some of the bypass systems like Blackgatecustoms or Dr KDSS would relieve pressure in ways to not make manipulation of the sway bars difficult

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...l#post10805135

Another potential free KDSS interrupt option I posted here

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/kds.../post-14292543

Romanova

I mean, it seems like in the YouTube video that I posted that if you twist both of the ***** two times that it releases some pressure or some tension. Maybe that method with the method described in the service manual would make it easier to put the bar back into place if you used a hybrid of both methods?

I'm taking my LS430 in for a few things to the local Lexus indy place and I'm going to have them quote the front struts and see what they're price is and eventually make my decision.

Acrad

You can relieve pressure that way. Just make sure you document with marks how far you loosen to ensure not beyond what is needed.

JonGX

the bar is somewhat heavy, but the challenge comes from the need to manipulate the bar against the hydraulic pressure of the KDSS system to get it back into place. I used a combination of a floor jack and some long pry bars to muscle it back into place. It’s definitely manageable, just a pain in the butt. If I had an extra set of hands to help me it would have been much easier. Even someone just to start the bolts when you get the holes lined up would be helpful.

I would suggest replaying the 4 bushings if you’re tackling the front shocks.

vanhack

Hi Folks, just joined as my Dad's 2012 GX has a leaking shock in the rear, and the front's are just mild weeping. I am in Dubai, and seems that partsouq.com have a lot of stock, but we are not allowed to buy from them, as they must have an export only deal with suppliers.

Anyhow I wanted to know if i just replace with normal shocks from the likes of KYB which is easily available, the electronic ones seems to be diffcult to find at the moment, I even spoke to the whole GCC distributor of KYB, and they had no interest in serving a retail customer, and sent me on a wild goose chase with their 2 UAE distributors, 1 phone number was out of service, and the other distributor sent me on to other retailers, again 1 phone worked, and the other did not!!!!!

Anyhow maybe I just ditch the electronic shocks and put the normal shocks, do I need to replace the height adjustable bags as well then? Will the car throw CEL, or codes?