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The GX460 comes with either normal shocks or adjustable electronic shocks (if you have electronic shocks your SUV will have 2 available toggle switches just right of the gear shifter: Height control and Comfort/Normal/Sport; if you have a GX with normal shocks, these are blanked out with flat covers for these 2 spots). The front electronic shocks have adjustable damping based on a motor on the top that spins an internal rod to stiffen or soften the damping. The rear electronic shocks, I believe, are ferromagnetic so they get stiffer or softer based the voltage applied to it. The electronic shocks are significantly more expensive than the standard shocks.
KYB makes the OE genuine Lexus shocks for the GX460 models with the electronic shocks. The genuine Lexus-labeled electronic shocks are quite expensive ($350 for each front and $750 for each rear) and I wanted some high quality alternatives. After a bit of research, I found the exact OEM KYB parts from a trusted parts supplier from Dubai (PartsOuq.com) that I've bought genuine Lexus parts many times before.
I bought the following from Partsouq.com and they arrived within a week for installation. The fit, function, finish, electronic harness and manufacturer are the same as the genuine Lexus shocks except that you don't pay the heavy dealer markup fees. The OEM KYB exact replacement shocks are made to sell in countries that don't have exclusivity agreements with Toyota/Lexus hence why the price is right.
Part numbers listed below [NOTE: only buy these parts if you have electronic shocks in your GX460; if you don't have the factory electronic shocks, you will have to order a different set of parts for around $350 (which will have a different part number set)):
741071 KYB front OEM electronic shocks ($110/each; order 2)
4860960090 genuine front shock mounts for electronic shocks ($35/each; order 2)
741072 KYB rear OEM electronic shocks ($173/each; order 2)
4850560110 genuine rear shock cushion #1 ($7/each; order 2)
4850560120 genuine rear shock cushion #2 ($9/each; order 2)
Install Notes (see attached PDF excerpts)
Rears. Difficulty 1.5/5. Installation for the rears is very simple (upper shock tower bolt and lower shock tower bolt; put in the 2 new cushions during install) and will take you about 1.5 hrs taking your time. You’ll need large vise grips to hold the shock tower so it doesn’t spin when you remove the top bolt. Take note of how far down the threads the top bolt is before you remove it, as you’ll be tightening it down to the same spot.
Fronts. Difficulty 3/5. The front installation is a bit more involved (and very similar to most front coil strut replacements), but you'll need: 1) a rented spring compressor, 2) be very patient to make sure you take off the shock tower actuator motor very carefully so you don't strip the 4mm Allen bolts holding it in place due to tight access (extremely important and probably most tricky bit; I used a 4mm Allen bit with a ¼” crescent to turn the bolt head slowly; also of note, during re-assembly, before you reinstall the new shock/coil assembly, loose fit the actuator head back on the new shock tower and align the actuator center motor bit with the flat spindle inside the top of the new shock arm, so don’t have issues during on car install), and 3) the KDSS sway bar can be tricky to put back in place (you'll need a second set of hands to install and a second jack to lift up up the sway bar to put in place). Of note, for the KDSS sway bar, I skipped factory instruction steps 4 and 6--you don’t need to fully remove the sway bar, you just need to remove the 2 end bolts at each control arm so it can articulate to remove the shock/coil assembly.
Not sure if you are still monitoring this post, but I am looking to replace the rear shocks on my GX460 with these electronic shocks from KYB. I would like to know if the KYB replacements have the same short travel compression as the original Lexus shock, or are they smoother? I am wanting to smooth out the harshness of my current shocks when going over speed bumps or hitting potholes. Thanks for any input you can provide.
I would say they are similar but maybe a touch harsher. I really didn't notice any difference when I did the rears, most noticeable difference was replacing the fronts.
I would say they are similar but maybe a touch harsher. I really didn't notice any difference when I did the rears, most noticeable difference was replacing the fronts.
Thank you very much for the information, that is exactly what I needed to know. I guess I will keep what I have since the vehicle has only has 56,000 miles on it and the shocks ride excellent in every other aspect.
speedbumps and potholes might have different approaches. pothole shock is way shorter (time) than speedbump shock
some generic shocks are softer, but that might not help you.
can lower air pressure, run less ply tires. those 2 would most likely have a bigger impact. lower pressure is very easy to experiment with.
maybe multivalve shocks?
theres also different springs, some linear can get more or less tons, and some progressives.
can also slow down before hitting the pot hole or speed bump.
i drive on 3 types of roads mainly, and the shock control does really help, but i do flip that switch at least 2 times a day.
interstate smooth, city full of potholes, and gravel road with some small sinkholes
speedbumps and potholes might have different approaches. Pothole shock is way shorter (time) than speedbump shock
some generic shocks are softer, but that might not help you.
Can lower air pressure, run less ply tires. Those 2 would most likely have a bigger impact. Lower pressure is very easy to experiment with.
Maybe multivalve shocks?
Theres also different springs, some linear can get more or less tons, and some progressives.
Can also slow down before hitting the pot hole or speed bump.
I drive on 3 types of roads mainly, and the shock control does really help, but i do flip that switch at least 2 times a day.
Interstate smooth, city full of potholes, and gravel road with some small sinkholes
speedbumps and potholes might have different approaches. pothole shock is way shorter (time) than speedbump shock
some generic shocks are softer, but that might not help you.
can lower air pressure, run less ply tires. those 2 would most likely have a bigger impact. lower pressure is very easy to experiment with.
maybe multivalve shocks?
theres also different springs, some linear can get more or less tons, and some progressives.
can also slow down before hitting the pot hole or speed bump.
i drive on 3 types of roads mainly, and the shock control does really help, but i do flip that switch at least 2 times a day.
interstate smooth, city full of potholes, and gravel road with some small sinkholes
Thanks for the info. I believe my best solution is just to continue to go slowly over the speed bumps. The ride is smooth otherwise for the most part even on bumpy roads. I have reduced tire pressure to 32 psi and it has made a difference but I don't think I want to go too much below that. This is my first truck platform SUV so I am sure it is just necessary for me to get used to the difference in the ride feel. Loving the GX ride and handling ability.
I finally got around to replacing the shocks on my 2017 GX 460 luxury. The truck had 65,000 miles. The ride was horrible compared to the new shocks I replaced the electronic shocks with Blitzstein 4600. I can finally drive on the freeway without white knuckling it. I wish the shocks had even greater dampening, but maybe due to the weight of the vehicle they are needed to be that way. I was planning on getting rid of the vehicle before I change the shocks but now I can tolerate it it lost a lot of the Lexus Marshmallow feeling.
Could not agree more ... the Bilstein 4600's transform the vehicle dynamics. The OEM Shocks are absolute garbage IMHO ... costing 6-times the price of the Bilstein's.
If running P-Rated tires ... they have no business on this platform. I run LTX and even E-Rated tires ... stiffer sidewalls for improved steering response and cornering ... with the shocks performing better since road feedback to the shock valving is not muted by marshmallow tires. Also ... 32psi is too low ... I run 36psi with LTX tires ... and 45psi with E-Rated tires.
I have Michelin tour hp tires. They are less than a year old. I am bringing up the psi to combat the bounce. Next set of tires I am following your advice.
Thanks👍
Michelin Defender LTX M/S ... the absolute best tire for the GX bar none ... unless you want to go more "knarly" in terms of tread.
The Michelin Tour tires are way better than the garbage OEM Dunlop's or Bridgestone's... but IMHO are still way too floaty for my preference even with increased pressure.
I cut the connector off the electronic shocks ... and used as a weatherproof plug on the wiring harness side.
michelin crossclimate suv+ are better than the defender ltx m/s only issue is they are sometimes special order. they grip and corner much better. better on wet roads. better snow performance too. Ive got >50,000 miles on both. defenders last longer but at the expense of less grip. P rated are better in some cases. especially for highway travel. less rotational mass, higher mpg, less energy transfer into cabin, less expensive, and on and on. like wise the oem suspension. i would take the OEM electronic setup over bilsteins.
just different approaches to noise, vibration, harshness issues.
shocks are only a small part of the system.
best is to address beginning with unsprung weight and go from there.
best ride i ever had was one system i designed used hydraulic accumulators. had a needle valve to adjust flow in/out of accumulator. was awesome control. later added a manifold for electronic control. disconnecting it would disconnect the 'shock'. at a stop light it would bounce back and forth until the light changed to green.
09-17-23, 03:56 PM
