GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) Discussion topics related to the 2010 + GX460 models

Front differential pinion seal leak

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Old 08-08-23, 07:20 AM
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ninja250
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Originally Posted by Acrad
Check out bottom pic on post #50 here for all torque specs

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...l#post11135485
Hi Acrad - would you be able to paste this again ? the old pics have disappeared from the forum posts. I still need to do the replacement thou.
Old 08-08-23, 05:39 PM
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Acrad
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Pics are showing up for me… example ..here.. anyone else not seeing pictures load at following link?

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...l#post11135485



Old 08-08-23, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Acrad
Pics are showing up for me… example ..here.. anyone else not seeing pictures load at following link?

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...l#post11135485


Unfortunately not showing for me - I have tried 2 PCs and the phone, multiple browsers. Looks like the forum crashes the browsers.

Anyone - what is the torque of front diff flange to propeller shaft, the 4 bolts that connect both.

Old 08-09-23, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Acrad
Pics are showing up for me… example ..here.. anyone else not seeing pictures load at following link?

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...l#post11135485
The pictures show just fine for me.
Old 08-09-23, 12:34 PM
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Hopefully these show on your devices



Old 08-10-23, 01:15 PM
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ninja250
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Originally Posted by Acrad
Hopefully these show on your devices


Thanks Acrad - no, they are not. It is a mystery to me why they do not show on a bunch of devices, I would understand one, but multiple??

Anyway - I watched another pair of videos (I can see the pasted Youtube stuff !!!) and torqued those bolts to 59 lb ft, same as on the comparable Toyota SUVs. I finished the repair and the pinion seal seems not to leak.

A few observations - when installing the gasket/seal below the flange that you bolt to the front propeller shaft there is some corrosion that prevents inserting that gasket, so it needs to be sanded/metal brushed very carefully before inserting, otherwise it does not want to get in because of the rust lip. Once this is done - it goes easy. Be very careful so the dust does not get inside of the differential.
Also - on all the videos it seems that people just torque the main nut to exactly the place where it has been before disassembling, and not to those 360lb ft - this is because you do it ONLY ONCE when you install a new set of parts - then when you disassembly and assembly again, it just has to get back to the original position. This is because there is some 'crush' element that crushes only once and needs the 360lb ft, that is my understanding. Any subsequent reinstallation of the nut does not crush anything.
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