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I want to tackle this job myself, but boy do they make it complicated. I’ve changed transmission filters and gaskets before, but not on a GX. There is a fluid temperature range that is real critical from what they say I thinks it’s 115 degrees when measuring fluid level on the A760F transmissions. I’ll see if I’m to it.
Mine was changed for the first time @ 110k miles. The old fluid looked nasty and after three drain + fill cycles (approx 9 bottles) the fluid looked good and seemed to shift smoother. No regrets.
I want to tackle this job myself, but boy do they make it complicated. I’ve changed transmission filters and gaskets before, but not on a GX. There is a fluid temperature range that is real critical from what they say I thinks it’s 115 degrees when measuring fluid level on the A760F transmissions. I’ll see if I’m to it.
I still plan to change mine but having to over-research this one as so many conflicting experiences, methods, instructions, videos, write-ups. I've got over $100 in OEM fluid... I'm not gonna let that go to waste. :-)
I may just bring to it to Lexus and have them drain and refill LOL.
If I end up doing it myself, I would probably measure how much drained out and put in the exact amount instead of messing with the temperature procedure. Why the heck did Lexus make it complicated it haha LOL
Originally Posted by Acrad35751
I still plan to change mine but having to over-research this one as so many conflicting experiences, methods, instructions, videos, write-ups. I've got over $100 in OEM fluid... I'm not gonna let that go to waste. :-)
Reaching out on some other forums and series to determine how necessary this step is. Appears to be some further ignition retard beyond shutting off AC and electrical accessories.
Originally Posted by Acrad35751
I need to run a test this weekend and see what this active test does during fluid check. Apparently some special idle condition that vehicle can go into beyond turning off all the accessories and AC. This might be one of those procedures where my 2.04 firmware TS cable is needed for live data.
Played around with this test this morning with TS hooked up to my GX. It appears this TS piece is just a different way of doing the paper clip temp control mode. Less concerned about complexity now.
I assume this is for when a dealer would have TS hooked up to OBD port and would not allow for the paper clip method to invoke the temperature detection via the "D" indicator. One can either bring your laptop with TS down to the ground to see or use OBD Fusion to monitor temps. I've seen some bring their SCANGAUGE down there as well. You still have to move the shift lever as described above to get it into temp detection mode. I did have to turn the car off and then on to get out of temp detection mode. If you have a separate OBD temp detection method I see no reason to use this built in one. Also had TS disconnect on Active Test the first time but reselecting it got me connected back. It would always do this on the first time but then would work flawlessly on subsequent retests.
[Data list view of AT temps]
[Active Test Selection]
[Switch to turn ON/OFF - Active Test]
[Here is Active Test running. Flipping to OFF put it back to normal state without lights not flashing. ]
That air suspension piece shows up on the display.
Gonna pick up a few extra quarts so I can do 3 changes since worst case 4-4.5 quarts.... then I am fine... at least in my mind for the next 50K miles. AT failure as a kid when I could least afford it left a lifetime of concerns in regards to AT fluid maintenance.
I've got a lot of old mobile phones... set one up for using underneath as the dedicated OBD Fusion AT temp monitor. No worries if it get's plastered with AT fluid. I plan to do my first drain and fill on weekend of the 30th... heading out of town next weekend.
I just got a new to me 2011 with 86k miles. I am torn on the tranny fluid. I didn't look into it before purchasing. I didn't think it would be any different than any of my other vehicles I'd had in the past where changing the fluid was an every other year maintenance item and was pretty straight-forward. After I bought it I looked into getting all the fluids changed and saw that it was a sealed transmission some people recommended never changing it which sounds crazy. I've had a couple other vehicles with sealed transmissions and I've dropped the pan myself to replace the filter and fluid. I've never seen it not shown as a regular maintenance item before and I've never seen the temperature requirement.
My local Lexus quoted me $330 to drop the pan and replace the fluid and filter. It's not so much the price that I'm afraid of but I'm not sure if I should change it this late in the game.
I just got a new to me 2011 with 86k miles. I am torn on the tranny fluid. I didn't look into it before purchasing. I didn't think it would be any different than any of my other vehicles I'd had in the past where changing the fluid was an every other year maintenance item and was pretty straight-forward. After I bought it I looked into getting all the fluids changed and saw that it was a sealed transmission some people recommended never changing it which sounds crazy. I've had a couple other vehicles with sealed transmissions and I've dropped the pan myself to replace the filter and fluid. I've never seen it not shown as a regular maintenance item before and I've never seen the temperature requirement.
My local Lexus quoted me $330 to drop the pan and replace the fluid and filter. It's not so much the price that I'm afraid of but I'm not sure if I should change it this late in the game.
It's up to you but I probably wouldn't worry about having too many miles to do it now.
Here's an experience I had with a Toyota sealed transmissions. I have a V6 Camry with a U660E sealed transmission that I bought at 68k. Unbeknownst to me that transmission had some known issues; among them it was prone to shift flares mostly on a cold engine for the first few shifts. For those that don't know, shift flares are when the transmission seems to go into neutral between upshifts and the engine will rev up before it actually shifts into the proper gear. Well my car had this problem. It was nothing dramatic but had frequent flares from 2-3 and 3-4 gears. Usually it would be less noticeable when well warmed up. At about 72k miles I took it to the dealer to have them change the fluid. It cost over $300 and did nothing to change the flare issues.
Finally at 80k miles, after driving it 8k with the problem and fretting over it I did all the research on how to do it myself. I was worried that the problem would worsen over time if I did nothing. BTW, the crux of the issue was that the main input shaft bearing and seat were not properly engineered to handle the torque of the V6 which caused the bearing to wobble it it's seat and wear the aluminum of the case away which caused aluminum particles to wash throughout the transmission and clog up valves. So I finally changed the fluid and filter myself which was very dark and there was also quite a bit of aluminum sludge in the pan which made me question just what the Toyota dealership had even done. In total I dropped the pan changed the filter, refilled with about 2-3 quarts and then drained and filled 12 addtl quarts out of the cooler return line. After that the shifting was much improved and only happens once or twice on a cold engine.
I'm no expert on transmissions by any means but I think the biggest issue with changing fluids on an old transmission is "flushing" which may knock loose a lot of clutch/metal debris which will then block your valves and really cause problems. I don't think 86k miles is really that many and unless the driving it's had has been very harsh with heavy towing and high heat. I doubt there's much debris you might loosen. If you drop the pan, change the filter and refill, I doubt you'll have any issues.
It's up to you but I probably wouldn't worry about having too many miles to do it now.
Here's an experience I had with a Toyota sealed transmissions. I have a V6 Camry with a U660E sealed transmission that I bought at 68k. Unbeknownst to me that transmission had some known issues; among them it was prone to shift flares mostly on a cold engine for the first few shifts. For those that don't know, shift flares are when the transmission seems to go into neutral between upshifts and the engine will rev up before it actually shifts into the proper gear. Well my car had this problem. It was nothing dramatic but had frequent flares from 2-3 and 3-4 gears. Usually it would be less noticeable when well warmed up. At about 72k miles I took it to the dealer to have them change the fluid. It cost over $300 and did nothing to change the flare issues.
Finally at 80k miles, after driving it 8k with the problem and fretting over it I did all the research on how to do it myself. I was worried that the problem would worsen over time if I did nothing. BTW, the crux of the issue was that the main input shaft bearing and seat were not properly engineered to handle the torque of the V6 which caused the bearing to wobble it it's seat and wear the aluminum of the case away which caused aluminum particles to wash throughout the transmission and clog up valves. So I finally changed the fluid and filter myself which was very dark and there was also quite a bit of aluminum sludge in the pan which made me question just what the Toyota dealership had even done. In total I dropped the pan changed the filter, refilled with about 2-3 quarts and then drained and filled 12 addtl quarts out of the cooler return line. After that the shifting was much improved and only happens once or twice on a cold engine.
I'm no expert on transmissions by any means but I think the biggest issue with changing fluids on an old transmission is "flushing" which may knock loose a lot of clutch/metal debris which will then block your valves and really cause problems. I don't think 86k miles is really that many and unless the driving it's had has been very harsh with heavy towing and high heat. I doubt there's much debris you might loosen. If you drop the pan, change the filter and refill, I doubt you'll have any issues.
Cool, thank you. It's never been used to tow or had a roof rack or anything so I don't think it's had too rough of a life. I definitely hear you on not knowing what was done unless you do it yourself though. I wish it had a traditional transmission that was easily serviceable. Even if it were "sealed". This is the first time I've seen one without a dipstick. I am leaning toward getting it changed. Hopefully the Lexus dealer will do the work I pay for.
03-14-19, 06:50 PM
