M4rk

Those look very bright and seem to have an excellent projection pattern. How long have you had them for? Any issues with a limited cycle time due to heat generated by the built-in resistors? I really like the VLED bulbs I ran on my Subaru but am not a fan of tapping into the stock harness to run their resistors.

WRD4chano

i installed them shortly before making the post. they do have the resistor built in and ill be updating the thread whenever they fail.

in regards to "limited cycle time" how could i test to see if they have this issue?

M4rk

Awesome, hopefully they last. How do they illuminate road signs at night? I first tried the DiodeDynamics HP11 in my Subaru and they performed very poorly. In contrast to the stock incandescent bulbs, road signs were barely illuminated at night and I confirmed forward projection was terrible to the point where oncoming traffic and pedestrians could barely see the turn signal in broad daylight. The VLEDs I swapped in were fantastic in all aspects.



Regarding the limited cycle time, I recall seeing some of the Amazon bulbs specify a maximum run time, beyond which they will stop flashing to cool off. If these don't have such a limitation, it looks like a great option.

MrTorgue

I’ve been happy with Alla’s for years. For 168/194 I get these bulbs usually for things like dome and map lights.


For areas where I need a spot light I get these.


Works well so far in both of my GX’s. These are far brighter in person, cell phone pics don’t do it justice.

WRD4chano

theyre pretty bright - only nit pick is that theyre a bit white washed. though it might be the reflectors on gx causing that.

from the from
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AtCwYqBVtc77jV9MetA1zwE014po

reflection
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AtCwYqBVtc77jWGMNrtZZSeO_EdK

from the rear
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AtCwYqBVtc77jWCV56_LpigEh8A6

John00

most dont specify the duty cycle % or continuous time on spec
for a continuous light, connect to a power supply or direct to the battery, let it stay on and take temps every minute or two. if the temp keeps rising then keep testing until stabilization.
remember that it will be hotter in an enclosure. in general, any temp at a solder joint > half the solder met temp will reduce life.
if you leave it on and it smokes, yeah thats not good.

for turn signals, connect to the vehicle and make it blink. take the temp every 30 seconds for a minute or two. Could wait either till stabilization or the max time you would ever have it activated.

you can also compare the temp to the led spec. if on long enough, the part reaches about equalized temps.

WRD4chano

after reading his post, i drove to work with them on (10 minute drive) and touched the rear housing and felt no warmth. (55°f)

i don’t have any way to check the temps or connect them to a circuit outside the vehicle. i’ll drive home with them on again today, remove the front bulbs and try to touch them. only variable here would be the current ambient temp will be 50°f.

ill also reach out to the company and ask them about the duty cycle.

John00

often you can connect them to the vehicle harness and not insert into the housing.
50F is not even warm, about 13C. if thats the lamp enclosure that ithe bulb plugs in to, thats a good value. if thats the bulb housing or heatsink itself, seems kinda low. this can either be that the bulb doesnt produce much heat (like some without additional resistance to affect relay timing), or it can be that the heat is not flowing from the resistor to the body. this can be bad if the PCB cant handle the heat.
most temps I get during testing of aftermarkets, at the emitter, are from 90 to 125C.

M4rk

Are we still talking about turn signals? Not clear on this after reading that you "drove to work with them on."

WRD4chano

yes i drove to work with my hazards flashing and im doing it again tonight.

they also responded:

John00

some people put amber lights designed for turn signals into the fog light housings and wire as always on. this causes issues when the light wasnt designed for continuous duty.
ive not had any issues when using turns as turns, it usually the continuous power applications that cause issues, even the white color on switchbacks.

WRD4chano

not using them as fogs. i left them on (flashing) to see if they got hot or would lose brightness, didn’t notice that.

i’m trying again today, but instead of just touching the housing, i’ll take it one of the front bulbs out and place my hand near it to check the amount of heat coming from it.

"update": instead of having my hazards on while driving home, i just left them on for 5 minutes while parked, took one out of the front housing and observed no heat difference from start to end.

M4rk

Thank you for putting in all that leg work, @WRD4chano. I am wondering if you could perhaps test indicating to one side instead of the four-ways? My understanding is that four-way flashing is controlled differently and would not create hyper-flashing even without resistors. For that reason, it's likely why there is no heat being generated, and the bulb did not go through the cycle as described by the mfg.

T0n1cB4ss

I can somewhat confirm that 4 ways work differently than the turn signal. I recently tried putting a set of amber LED's in and initially tested them with the 4 way flash which worked normally. When I put the turn signal on I got hyper-flash.

Also, I ordered the same set as @WRD4chano received. Will hopefully be installing these on Saturday, weather pending.

WRD4chano

they started hyper flashing when left on for long.

i set them to indicate to the right and set a three minute timer. this is what they started doing. they were also hot enough to burn. no difference in brightness.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AtCwYqBVtc77jWKgm_Vw6ZYxNsIz