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That is a small bulb, I don't think ANY led in there would melt anything. I have LEDs there and they run cooler than halogen.
Here's two designs that melt:
They only run cooler when the dissipation is good enough to take away the heat and add it into the air. The first one will be obvious right away, the second one will take some time. The second one is notorious for claiming and not having a zener.
Any bulb you might think about for continuous use should be verified as OK for continuous use. I've tested many and a lot of them melt. Well known name brands won't, but the generic stuff does sometimes.
What is the solution John? What are you running that won't melt and smoke? LEDs can be purchased cheap and we have VLEDs and other brands that are expensive and that is most of what I have in my GX.
What is the solution John? What are you running that won't melt and smoke? LEDs can be purchased cheap and we have VLEDs and other brands that are expensive and that is most of what I have in my GX.
I only use for intermittent use, but it might be ok for continuous, although it would be too bright. I have this one for my puddle lights and for the rear two lights just inside the barn door.
seriously, it is brighter than you can imagine, has an aluminum body to move the heat. Removing the CANBUS resistor on many LEDs would eliminate the heat problem.
The resistor is not CANBUS in any way CANBUS is a protocol and that resistor is just to fool any current monitoring that may be in the car (2012 GX doesn't have this for any 5w bulbs)
What is the solution John? What are you running that won't melt and smoke? LEDs can be purchased cheap and we have VLEDs and other brands that are expensive and that is most of what I have in my GX.
Hi level solution is to get bulbs with proper heat management for the use.
Low level solution is to perform bench testing on any bulb that if melts would cause too much hassle. Hook the bulb to a power supply at 14V, lets the temp reach steady state, then decide on putting it in the car's enclosure. A laser thermometer is nice to have. Each diode can have different max junction temp ratings, but most I've seen stay below 150C and I'd prefer 120C or less. Anything over 1/2 the solder reflow temp can have long term issues, most reflows are around 220-240C.
Small bulbs not from major well know manufacturers are usually the culprits in quicker more violent death. Large bulbs with fans or fins usually don't have immediate problems.
Test the bulbs on a bench, then use them in the car. Don't test them in the car. The last thing we want is a nice layer of melted nastiness on the inside of a lamp housing (think smoke damage) that could have easily been prevented.
Let us know how hot it gets after a while on a bench 14VDC test. Those look like the cooler old style LEDs, they're hard encapsulated, then the entire assembly is encased (catches potential smoke). Most likely no heat issue, just curios. Also, is it an IR remote and how well does it work through the housing, side reflector, etc.?
Let us know how hot it gets after a while on a bench 14VDC test. Those look like the cooler old style LEDs, they're hard encapsulated, then the entire assembly is encased (catches potential smoke). Most likely no heat issue, just curios. Also, is it an IR remote and how well does it work through the housing, side reflector, etc.?
Will do, thanks for your help and information. Do I need to get a set of LED DRL Decoders to get them to work ?
11-29-18, 04:52 PM
