Why wouldn't the touch sensitive lock/unlock on the driver and passenger doors not work? I verified that all doors are latched and windows are closed but when I touch the handle to lock the GX I get a long beep. Any suggestions?

 

The long beep is an indication that your key FOB is in the truck.
Where is your FOB when this is happening?

 

My fob is in my pocket but my wife can't find hers. It must be hiding in here.

 

Apparently we had a misplaced key, found it under the passengers seat.

 

That'll do it! Glad you got it resolved.

 

Hey guys,

Looks I need some help again. I just realized that if I try to lock the doors by touching the handle on the passenger side, they will not longer lock.
Touching the handle to UNLOCK the doors works just fine. The driver's side works as normal. Anyone know if it's a separate fuse for this or something. What could this be?

Also, I'm not sure if anyone saw my previous post but while standing at a traffic light, my doors randomly unlocked and the airbag light went on. After turning the car on/off, this went away and the car functioned as normal... Until I just discovered the issue I'm experiencing. Could this have been a short of some kind, or maybe a fuse issue?

Would really appreciate some help. Car is a 2010 Premium with 162,000 miles that I bought used. thanks

 

If fuse is not the problem.

Touch the key to the door handle and try the button. Check the battery in the key fob - it could be weak

Check the power lock motor on the passenger side by using the lock/unlock on the master window control on the Driver's side, If the PS side lock works consistently you can eliminate the lock actuator motor.

All the locks are inter-connected and the car should be set to have the only the driver's door unlock from the driver's side button- for safety reasons. All should lock from the Driver's side button. So, unlock only the PS, close the door and check to see if the DRIVER's side button still functions properly. If that works the system interlock is working.

There is a control module on each door that senses the location of the key (its just below the door handle inside the panel on my 2005) that could fail. You could pull the panel off and check the wiring to that as a last resort.

 

I was looking in FSM and most things tie into the Body Control Module. There is some verbiage about airbags in power door lock chapter which seems interesting since you mention air bag light came on.

Of note---> "If the collision door lock release function does not operate normally, or an open or short in the GSW input circuit of the main body ECU (multiplex network body ECU) is detected, DTC B1243 is stored. "

There appears to be a link between air bag deployment and door unlocking. You may have a damaged BCM or a bad harness connection to unit somewhere in the body of the car. Or possibly a bad ground? A Techstream diagnosis may be needed.

EDIT: Possible even a bad connection at one of the lock actuator could cause issues. Might be that front passenger door one.

 

Checking fuses now.

I had Viper Smart Start installed at Best Buy a few mo this ago and this is what the fuse area looks like.

Is is it normal for the wire to be just set up like that into the fuse.

All doors lock and unlock normally from the inside of the car
locking and unlocking works just fine when touching handle on driver's side.

When I try to unlock on the passenger door (when the car is locked) by grabbing the handle, it unlocks fine
the only thing not working is when I try to lock the doors by touching the top of the handle from the PASSENGER side only. Touching the door handle on the driver's side works just fine.

 

I have wrapped wires around fuses before but that is sloppy.

 

ran the techstream and got these 2 trouble codes for the Airbag.
B1000 Airbag ECU Malfunction
B1642 Side satellite Sensor Bus Lost Communication

when I click on the magnifying glass next to the code I get a pop up that says "Do Not Diagnose, No problem now"

Also, is there a some kind of a tool that I can use to remove the fuses to check them? I couldn't get any of them out. Even tried a thin knife and there are a lot of them...

 

You can use a volt meter to test them using the 2 little holes you see beside the rating number. There is a white fuse puller in the fuse box under the hood.

 

Shame on Best Buy for their work. Use something like this:


There are different sizes, so make certain you order the correct ones. It's amazing that the installer didn't sue something like this as they are only about $1.25.

 

I have used geek squad in the past, you can actually call their customer support and mention your having problems Cas of their sloppy work.

 

Wow!!! That is an amazingly bad wiring job. Installer needs some significant training or a new line of work. They should have used what DallasDave listed above. I like to solder and heat shrink stuff that isn't under warranty....but Posi-Taps works great as well. After seeing that high likely they have caused your issues.

https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html