I recently got new tires...perfect smooth ride at all speeds. After I went to Lexus dealer and had the rims repainted under warranty due to pitting of the rims. I don't drive much on the highway but after a couple of weeks, when I was on the highway (first time since the repainted rim), there was a very noticeable steering wheel vibration at 65+ miles/h.

Thinking that it was the infamous TSB (involving dampeners in the transfer case), I took it in to the lexus dealer.

After they just said to drive more and that it will go away on its own as there were low and high spots on the new tires probably from not driving too much (I don't drive much).

Q. Did the repainting of the rims throw the tires off balance?

What should my next move be?

Warranty work to date:

replaced both Height sensors
replaced drive shaft (clunk fix)
New rotors (all 4) due to warpage
repaint rims

 

Have them high speed balanced again just to rule it out. I recently had slow leaks in 2 out of 4 valve stems and had them replaced and got a wheel vibration at 65mph. I was told just adding new valve stems or chrome caps can throw off the balance. I'm having my wheels balanced again.

 

What you have is common where tires have flat spotting, they end up having a symptom called "Steering Flutter". As you have mentioned, you have driven less, and GX have been resting for most of the time. To solve this problem, the steering rack guide spring needs to be removed and a new Steering Rack Guide Preload Spring replaced. As this is to increase the Spring tensile due to load on to the Front Stabilizer, due to the tire spots and reduce the vibration.

 

Sounds like a dealer BS answer to me, to be honest.

How did they repaint the wheels? Did they remove the tires, or did they paint the wheels with them mounted?

My first guess would be that either they removed the balance weights to paint the wheels, and did a lousy job re-balancing them; or, they just knocked one off by accident.

As already suggested, I'd take it to a good tire shop and have the wheels balanced again. If that solves the issue....take the bill back to the Lexus dealer.

 

is this hard to do mann777?

 

Is this the spring you are talking about? Further, do you think that maybe tightening the guide (perhaps a quarter turn) may help as I can't imagine the spring going bad (I only have 48000miles on my 2007)?

 

I think they painted with the tires on as only the outside part of the rim
is painted and I saw some paint on the tires after words. I highly suspect that they are out of balance as a result. They have agreed to balance them....will see how that goes.
After driving 300miles on the weekend both my hands were numb from the vibration.

 

Is this spring hard to get to hammer0008?

 

Looks easy enough.

 

[QUOTE=hammer0008;5771908]Is this the spring you are talking about? Further, do you think that maybe tightening the guide (perhaps a quarter turn) may help as I can't imagine the spring going bad (I only have 48000miles on my 2007)?

You are absolutely spot on, I will directly goto the assembly part to make it easier for you. Keep the following parts ready.
Most Important do not use the same spring, have it replaced. The part number is 44215-35010 ( Spring Control Valve Pre set ). Ensure to buy loctite or 3M type bond or equivalent.
Install the rack guide spring.
A. Install the rack guide and new spring (P/N: 44215--35010).
B. Apply sealant to 2 or 3 threads of the rack guide spring cap.
C. Adjust the total preload.
D. Using a hexagon wrench (24 mm), tighten the rack guide spring cap.
Torque: 25 N Sm (250 kgf Scm, 18 ftS lbf)
E. Turn the cap an additional 30° counterclockwise.
F. Turn the control valve shaft right and left 1 or 2 times. Now loosen the cap until the rack guide spring has no tension within. Ensure the valve is held tight on the vice so when threading into the valve is held firm. No play.
G. Now tighten the cap again with the hex wrench until you find the preload is between 1.4 to 1.6 N.m ensure while making this adjustment it should be clockwise.. Now apply the sealant to the 2-3 threads on the lock nut. Now temporary install the lock nut. Now holding the rack guide torque the nut. The torque can be around 68-70n.m. Just check the the total preload once.
H. Now get the power steering link assy into the truck and with the 2 bolts and 2 nuts. The nut has a detent, so never turn the nut. Be sure to turn the bolt. Now Insert the bolts and position it with the power steering gear assembly as a unit. Then install the bolts on the frame. Now you know the rest install the stab bar and the rest bushings. Here one thing you must note Install the bushing to the inner side of the bushing stopper on the stabilizer bar. Where you have large ring kinda mark. And not the other way around. Anf get on the bushing bracket and bolts. Once you have completely installed the wheel , Do a wheel balance and alignment. Now Disconnect your battery terminal and reconnect, so that the ECM wipes out the old settings and stores the new one to the memory, ceeyaa. let us know your outcome.

 

Chris This job with basic tools ( nothing special except the torque wrench ) and with taps on, should'nt take more that 6 hours.

Hammer008, I forgot one more stuff, while you mounting the steering shaft with the Steering gear assy , match it with the notch mark, if you miss this part, all what you have done would be of waste.

 

sounds like the tires are out of balance.

 

I'd start with the most likely things first:
IF they took the tires off to paint the wheels, then it's *highly* likely that you've simply got a wheel balance issue. Get it balanced correctly. Find someone w/a hunter road-force balancer, who'll actually use the road-force function.

IF they didn't, then I'd take the wheel off and see if they painted the mating surface between the wheel and the hub. Paint on this surface could be causing your issue.

Yes, it could be flat-spotting, but that typically goes away after 30min of driving at a decent clip.

Tightening the steering damper when the only thing that changed is having your wheel painted seems like a band-aid.

 

Good advice. Just came back from the dealer. Their hunter roadforce is out of order as they can't find anyone who knows how to calibrate the darn thing. How hard can it be? I have to go back in when they have it fixed/calibrated. Which they said would take several days.

 

Update:

Went in to have all tires balanced. I know they have a Hunter GPS but not sure if they used it.

I feel a very significant improvement! On some stretches of roads, it is perfectly steady, but on slightly bumpy sections of the interstate, there is definitely some shimmy on the steering wheel. I guess this is what people were calling "bump steer". At the same time as the shimmy, I could see my empty passenger seat shaking back and forth as well as my visor. I put it in neutral at 70miles/h thinking that it is somewhere in the power-train but nothing changed. Service rep said to get new tires. ( I have only about 2000miles on them over the last 6 months...still have those nipples too).

Mann777: Do I really need to take out the shaft, I think I can access the guide bolt it if I remove the oil filter. I am too afraid to take out the whole steering shaft.


What to do what to do...