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@Clutchless: I appreciate the extra reading material you provided. I will poke around on that forum when I have a moment. Also, thank you for the instructions and supplemental material on how to tackle a dirty cooling fan. I've been meaning to do it since you've dug up all that information, but a busy work schedule and scheduled family activities did not now allow me to carve out enough time so that this project could have my undivided attention.
At the end of the day, Little Red forced my hand and now is a happy camper... or so I thought. The low tire pressure sensor came up again the other day, but as I've read on here, I should have replaced all of the TPMS sensors at the same time. Another maintenance item to add to the list.
Over the weekend, I was able to replace two broken side view mirror turn signals. It's not a difficult procedure (less than 30 minutes), but removing and remounting the actual mirror was very challenging. Below are a few high level pictures to give you an idea of what is involved with this procedure.
Description: LAMP ASSY, SIDE TURN (DRIVER) PART NO: 81740-53020
Description: LAMP ASSY, SIDE TURN (PASSENGER)
PART NO: 81730-53020
1. Lexus part number for driver and passenger side view mirror turn signals. These are for the actual blinkers and not the chrome shroud around the blinker itself.
2. Image of the broken passenger side blinker.
3. To remove the mirror, adjust it with the interior control pad so that it's in the top most position (top of mirror recessed into the back and bottom of mirror is sticking out towards you). Use both hands to pull from the bottom towards you. It worked for me, but hopefully it works for you as well. You can see on the backside of the mirror that someone tried to pull from the top right corner, which brok the tab. Fortunately, it's a solid fit once remounted.
4. Mirror mounting pad. To remove the outer cover of the side view mirror housing, you will need to unscrew the four philips screws seen in the image below.
5. Once the screws have been remove, carefully pry apart the housing. Careful not to drop the puddle lamp lens which is located at the bottom of the side view mirror housing.
6. Once the housing has been pulled apart, you'll need to unplug the white connector from the blinker unit.
7. In order to pull off the chrome shroud and blinker unit, you will need to remove the remainder of the screws located in the image below.
8. The image below shows the chrome shroud and blinker unit (left) and the actual replacement part on the right.
Thanks for the post, I'll be removing the side mirrors from my car soon cause they no longer hold to the same position without some type of glue/adhesive. When I bought the car a month or two ago the original owner said its not a problem if I dont take it through an automatic car wash. WHile I dont use those often enough that isnt going to fly. I found a video linked here in the forum with someone showing how to fix the internal parts so the mirrors are again attached correctly but it isnt the greatest video (clear). You have several pics and instructions that will be helpful for the early part of the job so thank you!
@Newguy79: I'm glad my last post is able to give you a bit of insight for this project. Honestly, the longest part of the process was remounting the mirrors. I'm in no way an expert on bodywork, but there were a few times where it sounded like I broke the mounting mechanisms. You'll notice that the top two clips slide into the two holes at the top of the white mounting pad and the bottom two clips behind the mirror will snap on to the two white bars on the bottom of the white mounting pad. After remounting the mirrors, you'll just need to start your car or put in accessory mode so that the mirrors can calibrate. You might have to fine tune a bit, but it should be back to business once make your personal adjustments and save the settings.
I had posted this information on another thread, but wanted to post it here as well to be apart of my ongoing journal. I wanted to share an additional option for missing/additional fobs for this vehicle. I had a dilemma when I purchased my used 2010 Lexus HS250h. It only came with one key fob at the time of purchase. I looked around on the Lexus parts website for key fobs and came across a key card. I ordered the key card and blank master key that went inside of it and had my local Lexus dealership program and cut the new setup while getting my oil change done. I have to say, it's pretty convenient to just have a the key card in my wallet instead of carrying around a key fob. Cost to program key card and cut key (Lexus) was $145.00
Some time last week little red's engine started to shake violently while exiting the freeway. I limped my way to a neighborhood and turned off the car. After turning it back on, the engine began to shake violently again and the check engine light came on. Deciding not to further damage the engine, I shut it off and called a tow truck. While waiting for the tow truck, I started to peruse any Lexus vehicle related material I could find relating to this type of behavior. There are tons of scenarios, but the common theme I saw was plug a scanner to it and see what codes pop up.
After getting home, I plugged in my scanner and saw the following codes on the scanner: P0300 (Random Misfire Detected), P0301-4 (Cylinder X Misfire Detected). After some time searching and reading forum threads that closely related to these codes, I decided to purchase both spark plugs and ignition coils from Lexus.
Once the parts came in, I installed everything (cleared codes) and now little red runs like a champ. After driving over thirty miles, I plugged the scanner to check if anything came back, but all is well. No codes registered.
I decided to look at the old records from the previous owner and it appears that both the spark plugs and ignition coils were replaced within the last 30K miles by a non-Lexus/Toyota shop. The ignition coils are not OEM and the spark plugs are questionable if they were actually replaced. I call shenanigans on this replacement!
Good work. Let us know if your mileage improves.
I see the new plugs and coils were made by Denso. How much did the dealer charge?
You may want to clean or replace the PCV valve as it looks original in the photo. It is just above the far left spark plug in the photo. It has a hose connected to it. They are inexpensive and easy to replace.
I replaced my plugs at 60,000 miles and now at 104,200 miles it still runs well although mileage is not as advertised.
@Clutchless: Calculating the MPG manually between my previous and current refill, my baseline is at 32MPG. I'll report back after my next calculation to see if changing the spark plugs and ignition coils improve my MPGs. For the spark plugs, I paid $7.88/EA and for the direct ignition coils, I paid $80.13/EA. These were purchased from Bell Lexus of North Scottsdale in Arizona. I don't know if you got a chance to see the attached video of my engine running, but it sounded like a tractor engine... I probably could have hauled bundles of hay at that point.
I've read all the the documented maintenance history and only see one instance of the fuel injection system being flushed at 137,173 miles back in 2020. I need to add that maintenance item on my things to do. Do you have any recommendations on which fuel additives to use to maximize MPGs? Thanks!
I get about 30 mpg.
I have used Techron fuel system cleaner with some success. Get the larger bottle.
Right now I am running Liquimoly Jectron fuel injector cleaner in this tank of gas because I read good reviews and it was less expensive at Advance Auto Parts.
I also threw some Lubegard Bio/Tech engine oil additive in it as it only gets driven a few thousand miles a year. I change the oil once a year.
https://www.lubegard.com/products/biotech/
This should be a thread, but anyway, how many miles are on it and what are your symptoms? Are the dash warning lights on? Do you have any lights or power? How much gas? When was it last driven? Where there symptoms or lights in the days-weeks before this happened? Where are you located?
These vehicles are so complicated that if you run out of gas you need a hybrid shop or dealer to restart it.
However, the most common issue is that the 12 volt battery is worn out because they can last 10 years and folks forget about them. The only source is a Lexus or Toyota dealer as it is a weird size and type. This is the part number:
Lexus 28800-28100 Battery
2010-2012 Lexus HS250h 2880028100
You can use these links ( or Yelp-Google) to find an independent hybrid repair shop near you: https://hybridshoplocator.com/
This should be a thread, but anyway, how many miles are on it and what are your symptoms? Are the dash warning lights on? Do you have any lights or power? How much gas? When was it last driven? Where there symptoms or lights in the days-weeks before this happened? Where are you located?
These vehicles are so complicated that if you run out of gas you need a hybrid shop or dealer to restart it.
However, the most common issue is that the 12 volt battery is worn out because they can last 10 years and folks forget about them. The only source is a Lexus or Toyota dealer as it is a weird size and type. This is the part number:
Lexus 28800-28100 Battery
2010-2012 Lexus HS250h 2880028100
You can use these links ( or Yelp-Google) to find an independent hybrid repair shop near you: https://hybridshoplocator.com/
sorry it took so long to reply but the car has 162000 miles, when I try to start it all the lights on the dash light up but car won't start. I tried to jump start it and no luck. I bought a new 12v battery from Lexus and no luck. I put the scanner on it and no codes come up. It does show "check hybrid system" and I tried unplugging wire in fuse box and some other"fixes" I saw on you tube but no luck. Before this happened it was driving with on problems but it sat for about 1 week with the trunk slightly open and battery drained. It has 1/4 tank of gas in it
This has progressed beyond my diagnostic skill set for hybrids. Unless the new battery from Lexus may not have a good charge as they often sit around for months. If you have a battery charger (do not jump it) see if that helps. Put some more gas in it too. I know the gauge on mine is such that a quarter tank really means less than that.
However, You probably need a dealer or indpendent hybrid shop to carry out further diagnostics and get it started. I think something happened when the trunk was left opened. It could be your hybrid battery now has an issue. A hybrid shop will replace individual bad cells vs a dealer will sell you a whole new battery for more money.
Agree with Clutchless - likely more than just a drained battery. I had left mine at the airport for a week with the interior dome light on - dead as dead when i got back. But a new battery from the dealer was all I needed for it to fire back up. Though it's possible your new battery needs charging too, or maybe you didn't tighten the posts enough?
10-02-23, 04:56 AM
