flyfisher

Does anyone have any information to share concerning towing with the 400h? I'm about to purchase one, but am holding back because I can't find anyone locally that tows with the 400h. Towing both a boat and double snowmobile trailer. Looking for info on hill performance, whiplashing, etc.
Any info to share?

Lil4X

Welcome to CL, flyfisher!

The RX 350 (especially with AWD) would handle small trailers easily, and moderate loads well - if you balance the load properly and have brakes on the trailer (most boat or PWC trailers use surge brakes, rather than electrics that don't respond well to repeated dunking). Check with your local dealer, I'm not aware of the hybrid having ANY kind of tow rating. You may need to go with an RX 350 of a more conventional nature.

flyfisher

The dealer is claiming it will tow 3500 lbs and, because of the electric motors, provide more torque at the low end than the gas models. Neither one of my trailers have surge or electrical brakes.
I'm more concerned with the tendancy of the vehicle to "whiplash" due to the shorter and narrower wheel base when compared to other small SUVs.
Thanks.

jim256

Tha manual seems to have standard towing precautions for the hybrid--2000 lb without Tow Pkg, 3500 with. I believe most or all have the tow package. Go to the dealer and ask to see a manual for the 400h--section 3.2, and see if anything there gives you concern, plus check that the one they are selling has the tow package.

Lil4X

To prevent trailer sway, be sure that the tongue weight is close to 10% of the total weight of the trailer. Your trailer will swing wildly if the tongue is too light. You can adjust this by carefully putting the tongue jack on a bathroom scale and (on most boat trailers) moving the axle(s) forward and aft until you get the desired balance. Be sure to do this with the fuel tanks full and the boat loaded (including ice) as you will normally tow it. Moving the axle(s) is often a matter of releasing some u-bolts on the frame, but it may require cutting and welding on some models. Especially on tandem-axle trailers, be sure to measure the weight with the tongue at the same level it will be when towing with a normal load in the car.

Brakes are not a cure-all, but as you approach that 3500 pound limit, they can make life a lot easier by keeping the trailer from driving YOU in an emergency. They do nothing to prevent sway, but they can stop it, once begun. If the trailer starts to wag its tail, a little touch on the electric brakes will bring it back into line. Surge brakes require a little more deft touch - wait until the trailer swings to its limit, then starts back. Anticipate the center position, and stab the brakes quickly and release. If you time it right, the brakes will engage hard for a split second, just as the trailer lines up with your car, damping the swing saving your trailer and load. I've done it . . . and don't care to do it again.

A third solution is an equalizing or load-leveling hitch. Here a pair of spring bars carry a portion of the load forward to the front wheels, but for it to operate properly, your trailer needs about 15% of the total weight on the tongue.

Finally, a fourth solution is a friction device that will help keep the trailer in line. Personally, I'm no fan of these because they address the symptom rather than the disease. Consult a good hitch dealer, or better a reputable RV dealer with experience in these issues.