Poor gas mileage
#17
Make sure the front (Aux) battery does not have a bad cell. If your battery is older 3 years have it tested. I had mine tested and it was only outputing 10V. The battery was replaced and now we are getting 27.5 mpg.
#19
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Have you tried resetting the ISC (the ISC learning procedure). ISC is the idle speed control. If the battery has ever been replaced, or run down (or even below a certain voltage, the ISC needs to be reset, otherwise the engine idles too much. There is a TSB that explains how the dealer should do it, but it can be done by an ordinary mortal without the dealer only Lexus diagnostic computer.
See here for instructions - http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...howtopic=58930
I did this after buying my vehicle used (and then running the battery down fooling around with the NAV system without the vehicle in READY mode).
My around combined highway/city mileage went from 10.2 litres/100km to it's current 8.5 l/100km.
See here for instructions - http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...howtopic=58930
I did this after buying my vehicle used (and then running the battery down fooling around with the NAV system without the vehicle in READY mode).
My around combined highway/city mileage went from 10.2 litres/100km to it's current 8.5 l/100km.
#22
Have you tried this? Any results?
I recently replaced my ICE battery and was wondering if this will make a difference. I have access to a scanner so I'm just wondering if its worth taking the time to do this.
I recently replaced my ICE battery and was wondering if this will make a difference. I have access to a scanner so I'm just wondering if its worth taking the time to do this.
#23
Toyota has a TSB out advising that the ISC reset needs to be done after disconnecting the battery, so yes, I would say it's worth doing. I've done it several times on my 2006. You don't even really need a Scanguage (or any gauge) as all you are using it for is to make sure the coolant temp is over a certain temp (I forget what it is..82c? 180f maybe). Alll you need to do is drive the car for a decent amount of time fairly agressively so that the ICE runs and heats up the coolant.
#24
I just had the invertor replaced and the dealer replaced the battery anyway. I noted that the car previously wouldn't start the gas engine while I was in the garage. Only after pulling into the road (normal). Recently, the gas motor would fire up while in the garage. I tried the reset and so far, I don't see much change.
Does EVERYTHING have to be off in order not to have the car start the motor up right after turning the key to "ready" mode? ie.. lights, defrost, radio etc..??
Does EVERYTHING have to be off in order not to have the car start the motor up right after turning the key to "ready" mode? ie.. lights, defrost, radio etc..??
#25
I don't think everything has to be off in order for the engine not to start right away. I have notice when it gets cold (below 50) here in FL the engine will start up immediately after the key is turned. I think Toyota does that to warm up the engine in cold weather. Once warmed up it will turn off and on like normal.
#26
I don't think everything has to be off in order for the engine not to start right away. I have notice when it gets cold (below 50) here in FL the engine will start up immediately after the key is turned. I think Toyota does that to warm up the engine in cold weather. Once warmed up it will turn off and on like normal.
#28
I just bought a 2008 Rx 400h with 28k miles as a CPO from a Lexus dealership. It had been sitting on the lot for months and the battery was replaced just prior to my purchases.
I've been getting 24MPG with mixed driving 50/50 city/highway.
I figured it is time to do the reset. I followed the instructions.
A few notes:
I was unable to get the battery to charge up completely. When I was hitting the gas, the KW were pretty much not doing anything - the engine was running, but no change in the power meter. The energy flow meter seemed confused between sending power to wheels, battery, and to motors.
I cannot get the battery to fully charge no matter what. It still has one bar left to go.
Any ideas?
Will post later if milage gets better.
I've been getting 24MPG with mixed driving 50/50 city/highway.
I figured it is time to do the reset. I followed the instructions.
A few notes:
I was unable to get the battery to charge up completely. When I was hitting the gas, the KW were pretty much not doing anything - the engine was running, but no change in the power meter. The energy flow meter seemed confused between sending power to wheels, battery, and to motors.
I cannot get the battery to fully charge no matter what. It still has one bar left to go.
Any ideas?
Will post later if milage gets better.
#29
Toyota/Lexus will never full charge or drain the battery. They feel 20-80% prolongs the life of NiMH battery. Occasionally if you coast a long way when the battery is full charge (80%) you will go above 80% and the battery turns green
#30
When doing the ISC reset, the KW meter doesn't move much when I do it either. I usually just push the gas pedal almost all the way down. If you have a scangauge you can check the 'load' value to see how much load you're putting on the engine.
The battery charge may run into the green or it may not - it doesn't matter. After doing the load for 30 seconds, shutting off for five seconds and then restarting, push gently on the gas pedal till the engine starts. It should run for a little while (around a minute, give or take a bit, usually) before it shuts off. If it keeps running and running, the process hasn't completed and you need to do it again.
I can usually tell if it's going to work if the display shows the arrow running from the engine to the battery only. The arrow may shut off after a few seconds, but the ICE will keep running for a bit. You should hear the engine switch from a fast idle to a slower idle, before finally shutting off.
The battery charge may run into the green or it may not - it doesn't matter. After doing the load for 30 seconds, shutting off for five seconds and then restarting, push gently on the gas pedal till the engine starts. It should run for a little while (around a minute, give or take a bit, usually) before it shuts off. If it keeps running and running, the process hasn't completed and you need to do it again.
I can usually tell if it's going to work if the display shows the arrow running from the engine to the battery only. The arrow may shut off after a few seconds, but the ICE will keep running for a bit. You should hear the engine switch from a fast idle to a slower idle, before finally shutting off.