xclream

I converted my rear signal light to LED with no hyperflash.

Gonna try to do the fronts next.

Here's a short video on how it performs. Haven't had a chance to test it out yet under bright sunlight.

bc6152

I did this on my '13 ES350 about 2 years ago. Took about 30 minutes and cost $40.00. I think it looks great.

Here's mine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8-_...ature=youtu.be

xclream

What type of LED bulbs did you use?

I used SMD, a little research told me CREE is the way to go.

Ordered a pair of 80W Cree Amber, will try them on later when I receive them to see if they are significantly brighter.

chromedome

Any adapters to get the bulbs to fit? No issues with signal timing and brightness? I'm thinking of getting some Philips X-treme Vision T10 LEDs for this.

bc6152

I'm not sure if your question is directed to me or xclream, but if me, here is the information:

No adapters were used as I modified the universal sockets myself with a Dremel tool. No part of the factory wiring was altered and the bulbs fit securely within the taillight compartment. I have had no issues with timing or brightness and have had two state inspections since installation. I provided photos of the process and the part numbers if you're interested. You can find the information and photos here:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es3...-or-not-2.html

xclream

I ended up fiddling with the sockets and found a way for it to securely fit without having to use the dremel tool.

Also I ordered these new bulbs, as the SMDs, although pretty decent, are not as bright as the stock bulbs. So I ordered these CREE 80W ones. Waiting for them to come in, will update to see how they compare vs. stock vs. SMD.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111498053566?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

chromedome

Thanks bc and xclream for the answers, I'm still not clear about the need for adapters though. Bc's older thread says LEDs and decoders are needed - I assume the decoders are to get proper flashing and to get the bulb to fit.

Xclream, how did you get the rear wedge bulbs to fit without modifying the stock housing? Did you need any other electronics like a resistor or decoder? Your video says a T20/7440 LED with a resistor was used.

The stock rear amber bulbs are WY21W or 21 W. Wouldn't an 80 W Cree LED be overkill and end up dazzling drivers at night?

xclream

Hi ChromeDome: According to the seller, the bulb uses 16 x 5W CREE LEDs, so that comes out to be 80W. But I have no idea how to do the conversion between regular bulb wattage to LED, I think there's a difference in the amount of electricity required to light it. So I assume that it is still lower and requires a resistor to regulate it to blink properly.

The stock Lexus 7440/T20 uses a special adapter, which is different from the commonly seen 7440/T20 one. So you will require a bit trimming (using the dremel tool) to make it more round to fit in. As for my case, I just applied some pressure and jiggled it around, and got it to fit pretty sturdy.

Hope this helps.

chromedome

Did you have to add a resistor or decoder like what bc6152 used, or did you use just a T20 LED bulb? I'm looking for bulbs only so I don't have to cram extra stuff into light cavity.

bc6152

There's more than enough room in the taillight to stuff wiring in. Remove the inside panel - the gray felt door to the taillight and you see how much room there is inside. I had NO problem securing the additional wiring inside. If I didn't have to modify the sockets, the whole replacement process would have taken less than 10 minutes. No vehicle wiring has been altered.

Good Luck with your project.

xclream

Chrome: Yes, I used a resistor and yea, there's plenty of space back there to secure the extra wires in, no problem at all.

chromedome

Thanks for the clarification, looks like I'll need both resistors and LEDs. Bc's decoder from jdmtoy looks like a bunch of resistors with a heat sink attached.

I'm more worried about the heat from those resistors - I read on another forum that a 50 W, 3 ohm resistor can hit 400 F and melt plastic. Scary stuff. It might be possible to switch out the tiny resistors on the relay board itself but precision soldering is even scarier.

I'll pass on this mod for the time being.

xclream

I believe the heat sink would only get very hot if you have the LED light on all the time.

As for signal lights, it blinks, and we wouldn't drive around all day long with the signal lights on all the time, so I don't think it will get that hot & I doubt it will melt anything.

I have had it done in my last car, and drove around for 5 years, it did not melt anything, so, hope this helps.

PS - Are you located in Asia? Noticed that you are in CN, but some photos from your other posts, and looked like you are in Taiwan?

grabilsm

Ya the heat is a huge problem.

I would suggest spending the extra money on vled triton v3's with the lexus resistors. I have them in my car they work perfectly without the extra heat.

bc6152

I'm more worried about the heat from those resistors - I read on another forum that a 50 W, 3 ohm resistor can hit 400 F and melt plastic.

There's no heat sink, no heat, no melting plastic, and the LED's have been in for over two years...