2011 LS600h
#46
Still there indeed, according to the dealership's website, though it's gone from the CPO link that was posted earlier in this thread.
As for the behavior you noticed, as others pointed out, nothing strikes me as abnormal. What I would add, based on operation in all four seasons, is that the "brain" in this car is fairly sophisticated, and sometimes the 5.0 will come on/shut off when you wouldn't necessarily expect it.
Engine temperature absolutely plays a huge role as does battery level (per your display). What you, as a driver, cannot see, though, is everything else the ECU is watching, such as ambient temperature (e.g., the 5.0 will come on to keep coolant warm in the cold [not applicable to you yesterday, but an example]), loads on the system (e.g., climate control - I've seen the car react to seemingly-similar operating conditions in different ways, presumably based on some measurement of load), anticipated drain rates based on these loads, and other factors.
Recently, after leaving my car parked for a while, I noticed that my battery level had not moved at all (a good thing, I thought). However (and quite interestingly), after driving for a while, I noticed the "sequence" seemed off: the 5.0 kept running, yet the batteries kept on draining! Given recent discussions on here, this worried me, to say the least. Well, eventually, the batteries charged up again, and the sequence went back to "normal".
My conclusion was that this is likely a feature to cycle the batteries to extend their life. Like this, there are more examples I've observed over time, but the main point is that there is a heck of a lot more going on than meets the eye. Even though battery failure is expected at some point, premature failure is not. Their track record is pretty solid in that respect.
As for the behavior you noticed, as others pointed out, nothing strikes me as abnormal. What I would add, based on operation in all four seasons, is that the "brain" in this car is fairly sophisticated, and sometimes the 5.0 will come on/shut off when you wouldn't necessarily expect it.
Engine temperature absolutely plays a huge role as does battery level (per your display). What you, as a driver, cannot see, though, is everything else the ECU is watching, such as ambient temperature (e.g., the 5.0 will come on to keep coolant warm in the cold [not applicable to you yesterday, but an example]), loads on the system (e.g., climate control - I've seen the car react to seemingly-similar operating conditions in different ways, presumably based on some measurement of load), anticipated drain rates based on these loads, and other factors.
Recently, after leaving my car parked for a while, I noticed that my battery level had not moved at all (a good thing, I thought). However (and quite interestingly), after driving for a while, I noticed the "sequence" seemed off: the 5.0 kept running, yet the batteries kept on draining! Given recent discussions on here, this worried me, to say the least. Well, eventually, the batteries charged up again, and the sequence went back to "normal".
My conclusion was that this is likely a feature to cycle the batteries to extend their life. Like this, there are more examples I've observed over time, but the main point is that there is a heck of a lot more going on than meets the eye. Even though battery failure is expected at some point, premature failure is not. Their track record is pretty solid in that respect.
A 2008 just popped up in my area, 1 owner with 27K miles for 39K which is way overpriced...better color scheme than the 2011 but no warranty. Looked at the car info on lexusdrivers and it mentions the car needed to be jumpstarted and battery failed load test and replaced. I assume it is the regular car battery and not the hybrid... Should I consider this car instead of the 2011?
#47
Appreciate the thoughtful info...
A 2008 just popped up in my area, 1 owner with 27K miles for 39K which is way overpriced...better color scheme than the 2011 but no warranty. Looked at the car info on lexusdrivers and it mentions the car needed to be jumpstarted and battery failed load test and replaced. I assume it is the regular car battery and not the hybrid... Should I consider this car instead of the 2011?
A 2008 just popped up in my area, 1 owner with 27K miles for 39K which is way overpriced...better color scheme than the 2011 but no warranty. Looked at the car info on lexusdrivers and it mentions the car needed to be jumpstarted and battery failed load test and replaced. I assume it is the regular car battery and not the hybrid... Should I consider this car instead of the 2011?
That does sound like the battery in the trunk.
Here are my two cents... Some will think my rationale is sensible, and others may disagree. In the end, my view is informed by my own experiences as a 5+ year LS owner.
Personally, back in 2014, I wanted a 2010+ 600hL. Today, if I were looking, my choice would not change. Dollars matter, of course, and I get that, but given enhancements to the 2010+, warranty and other "intangibles", I don't believe the 2008-to-2011 price premium we are talking about is out of line.
For what it's worth, at the time, I was coming from a 2008 LS460L, so there was an element of "been there, done that". More importantly, while the 460 turned out to be a solid car, I dealt with too many TSIBs/teething pains that I had no desire to deal with again. My car was affected by the "known issues" and more (stuff that's known by Lexus but affects a smaller number of vehicles, like the steering rack, driveline vibrations and other crap). They took care of it all, and the car drove like a dream after, but mind you that was all done under warranty.
Beyond this, with the newer model, you get bluetooth audio, the cool cluster (minor, perhaps, but you may care), and the battery pack is different, so you do have a less-minuscule trunk. Did I mention the warranty? You get the idea...
Is this worth $10k+ to you? That is a very personal decision, so I don't know, but it sure is to me.
#48
Appreciate the thoughtful info...
A 2008 just popped up in my area, 1 owner with 27K miles for 39K which is way overpriced...better color scheme than the 2011 but no warranty. Looked at the car info on lexusdrivers and it mentions the car needed to be jumpstarted and battery failed load test and replaced. I assume it is the regular car battery and not the hybrid... Should I consider this car instead of the 2011?
A 2008 just popped up in my area, 1 owner with 27K miles for 39K which is way overpriced...better color scheme than the 2011 but no warranty. Looked at the car info on lexusdrivers and it mentions the car needed to be jumpstarted and battery failed load test and replaced. I assume it is the regular car battery and not the hybrid... Should I consider this car instead of the 2011?
As for the question of 2008 vs 2011 LS600hL, I can see pro's and con's for each model year.
2008 Pro's:
- The 2008s are much more plentiful, so you should be able to get a much better price (the 39K for the one you mentioned is definitely way too high)
- Some prefer the styling of the front end in the 2007-2009 models (I do, for one) over the 2010-2012 models
2008 Con's:
- Older battery packs will increase the odds of requiring replacement out of warranty (assuming you want to keep the car 5 years)
- Known problems (wind noise, brake actuator, control arms, etc.) which may have been resolved by the 2011 model year
2011 Pro's:
- Updated electronics/Bluetooth, with many liking the look of the 2010-2012 speedometer layout
- Newer batteries, with more warranty remaining (and smaller battery pack, yielding more trunk space)
2011 Con's:
- Slightly steeper depreciation curve (I believe), since the 2008s are pretty far along the depreciation curve already
- Much fewer manufactured in 2011 vs 2008, so demand is higher than supply, driving higher prices (could be considered an advantage due to uniqueness, though).
Between the 2008 for $39K and the CPO 2011 for $51K, I think I'd have to go the 2011 route (if you can afford the extra $$). If you're willing to consider a 2008, though, you'll find quite a few more to choose from, some with low miles and significantly less expensive than the one you mentioned (especially if you're willing to expand your search nationwide).
Good luck!
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#49
I think to this list I would also add:
2008:
2010:
I actually like the layout of the 2008 Nav system better; and the Gen5 Toyota USB implementation is not that great (scrolling is slow, it always plays the first playlist in any given page). You can get the 2 boxes from Vaistech for $500 and add bluetooth and USB.
The bluetooth phone integration is admittedly better (natural voice dialing, iPhone contact sync).
But the basic car underneath it all is pretty much the same. Assuming you can get the 2008 car closer to $30k it might be worth it to take the risk with the battery; even if you shell out $5k you're still ahead of the 2011. Again though it's not entirely ok for the battery to completely sit for months on end; which is also possible here.
I say drive both and see what you think it worth it. There may be other little things you see in person that tip it one way or another.
2008:
- Has a cool box in the rear seats (the 2010 redesign shuffled the battery position for more trunk space, eliminating this feature).
2010:
- Available LKA (without the hack)
- Better parking assist
- No cool box
- Works with iPhone address book
- Different grill
I actually like the layout of the 2008 Nav system better; and the Gen5 Toyota USB implementation is not that great (scrolling is slow, it always plays the first playlist in any given page). You can get the 2 boxes from Vaistech for $500 and add bluetooth and USB.
The bluetooth phone integration is admittedly better (natural voice dialing, iPhone contact sync).
But the basic car underneath it all is pretty much the same. Assuming you can get the 2008 car closer to $30k it might be worth it to take the risk with the battery; even if you shell out $5k you're still ahead of the 2011. Again though it's not entirely ok for the battery to completely sit for months on end; which is also possible here.
I say drive both and see what you think it worth it. There may be other little things you see in person that tip it one way or another.
Yes, the battery replacement is definitely referring to the standard 12v battery in the trunk, not the hybrid battery pack.
As for the question of 2008 vs 2011 LS600hL, I can see pro's and con's for each model year.
2008 Pro's:
- The 2008s are much more plentiful, so you should be able to get a much better price (the 39K for the one you mentioned is definitely way too high)
- Some prefer the styling of the front end in the 2007-2009 models (I do, for one) over the 2010-2012 models
2008 Con's:
- Older battery packs will increase the odds of requiring replacement out of warranty (assuming you want to keep the car 5 years)
- Known problems (wind noise, brake actuator, control arms, etc.) which may have been resolved by the 2011 model year
2011 Pro's:
- Updated electronics/Bluetooth, with many liking the look of the 2010-2012 speedometer layout
- Newer batteries, with more warranty remaining (and smaller battery pack, yielding more trunk space)
2011 Con's:
- Slightly steeper depreciation curve (I believe), since the 2008s are pretty far along the depreciation curve already
- Much fewer manufactured in 2011 vs 2008, so demand is higher than supply, driving higher prices (could be considered an advantage due to uniqueness, though).
Between the 2008 for $39K and the CPO 2011 for $51K, I think I'd have to go the 2011 route (if you can afford the extra $$). If you're willing to consider a 2008, though, you'll find quite a few more to choose from, some with low miles and significantly less expensive than the one you mentioned (especially if you're willing to expand your search nationwide).
Good luck!
-
As for the question of 2008 vs 2011 LS600hL, I can see pro's and con's for each model year.
2008 Pro's:
- The 2008s are much more plentiful, so you should be able to get a much better price (the 39K for the one you mentioned is definitely way too high)
- Some prefer the styling of the front end in the 2007-2009 models (I do, for one) over the 2010-2012 models
2008 Con's:
- Older battery packs will increase the odds of requiring replacement out of warranty (assuming you want to keep the car 5 years)
- Known problems (wind noise, brake actuator, control arms, etc.) which may have been resolved by the 2011 model year
2011 Pro's:
- Updated electronics/Bluetooth, with many liking the look of the 2010-2012 speedometer layout
- Newer batteries, with more warranty remaining (and smaller battery pack, yielding more trunk space)
2011 Con's:
- Slightly steeper depreciation curve (I believe), since the 2008s are pretty far along the depreciation curve already
- Much fewer manufactured in 2011 vs 2008, so demand is higher than supply, driving higher prices (could be considered an advantage due to uniqueness, though).
Between the 2008 for $39K and the CPO 2011 for $51K, I think I'd have to go the 2011 route (if you can afford the extra $$). If you're willing to consider a 2008, though, you'll find quite a few more to choose from, some with low miles and significantly less expensive than the one you mentioned (especially if you're willing to expand your search nationwide).
Good luck!
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#50
I drive an '08 LS600 with almost 188000 miles on it. The hybrid battery and drive train are my last concerns. If I stay under 15MPH I can drive almost 20 miles in electric mode. Tested it last Sunday.
#51
Wow - that is the highest miles LS600 I have heard of. How long have you had it? Any major issues so far?
#52
Most likely pulling the trigger tomorrow on the 2011. However, has anyone cross shopped with the Equus? a 2013 Ultimate with 14K miles popped up in my local area... It's listed for 33K... Tempting but I never driven one and have no idea how well it will last...
Last edited by orys; 03-19-16 at 07:46 PM.
#54
Thanks for the response. That's what I heard as well... It's also the most bad looking car ever. Decided to opt for the LS600hl. Going to pick her up tomorrow!
#56
Quick advise on sone finances here.... Got approved for 2.9% for up to 66 months. For you financial experts out there, does it make sense to finance a 52K pre owned car for 66 months? Also, should I be looking at getting a platinum warranty now, at a later date or not at all? Again it's a 2011 w/20k miles CPO. Thank you....
#58
The CPO is 2 years from date of purchase/unlimited miles. I would like to purchase platinum but not now.... can I purchase it down the road? I heard you can get a platinum prior to 40K but the rules just changed..
#60
The dealership sold the car tonight to someone else although they promised it will be on hold till tomorrow.... I got busy with stuff today and thought that since I got approved it will still be there. Oh well, I guess wasn't meant to be...