Catalytic converter options gs450h 2007
#1
Catalytic converter options gs450h 2007
Hi, I need to get two new Catalytic converters and wondered if I should stay with Lexus OEM or use something from a third party. Can anyone outline their experience and.pros/cons. Is there a particular third party product you would recommend?
Thx
Thx
#5
Yes, I can reset the light and it goes away for a while but always comes back on. I am doing lengthy drives. Why thei ight does not come on immediately, According to the torque app it takes a while for the cars ECU to complete a re-analysis of the cats. To-date, I have changed the plugs, cleaned the airflow sensor and changed the air filter to no gain. These cats/headers are hugely expensive to replace in Australia from the dealer with what it seems is no other viable 3rd party alternative.
#6
Yes, I can reset the light and it goes away for a while but always comes back on. I am doing lengthy drives. Why thei ight does not come on immediately, According to the torque app it takes a while for the cars ECU to complete a re-analysis of the cats. To-date, I have changed the plugs, cleaned the airflow sensor and changed the air filter to no gain. These cats/headers are hugely expensive to replace in Australia from the dealer with what it seems is no other viable 3rd party alternative.
This is what my portable scanner says, I also have Techstream but didnt check it out yet.
My light comes on every 80 miles or so.
#7
Do the codes show one bank or the two? For me I believe I need to rule out vacuum leaks next, (😁should be fun throwing propane at the intake manifold) but having said that I have ordered all new O2 sensors and although I do not believe they are the problem, I want new ones coz my car has done over 400k. If the cats were not so damn expensive, I would just do them first.
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#10
I have slight exhaust leakI think this might cause my cat CEL. If the sensors read the car is rich it leans it out too much getting the cat TOO hot. Too cold is not good either, especially for the 450h which starts and stops alot in city traffic.
Burning too much oil clogs the cat also.
Burning too much oil clogs the cat also.
#11
I have slight exhaust leakI think this might cause my cat CEL. If the sensors read the car is rich it leans it out too much getting the cat TOO hot. Too cold is not good either, especially for the 450h which starts and stops alot in city traffic.
Burning too much oil clogs the cat also.
Burning too much oil clogs the cat also.
#12
Nice move with the replacement cat. I am replacing my front lower control arm next week im pretty sure the bushings are shot. Then diagnose where my exhaust leak is coming from.
My engine uses about 1-1.5 quarts every 5-6k miles. Currently 222k miles.
I have been getting cat inefficient codes and lean stuck O2 sensor signal Biased/Stuck Lean code P2195 Bank 1 sensor 1, as my exhaust leak has been getting louder, I think they are related. The theory is with an exhaust leak the o2 sensor reads rich and leans out the mix, but too much and the cats are over heated.
Also a new one P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1 which could mean a O2 sensor replacement.
My engine uses about 1-1.5 quarts every 5-6k miles. Currently 222k miles.
I have been getting cat inefficient codes and lean stuck O2 sensor signal Biased/Stuck Lean code P2195 Bank 1 sensor 1, as my exhaust leak has been getting louder, I think they are related. The theory is with an exhaust leak the o2 sensor reads rich and leans out the mix, but too much and the cats are over heated.
Also a new one P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1 which could mean a O2 sensor replacement.
Last edited by samsonn25; 01-26-19 at 05:21 AM.
#13
Nice move with the replacement cat. I am replacing my front lower control arm next week im pretty sure the bushings are shot. Then diagnose where my exhaust leak is coming from.
My engine uses about 1-1.5 quarts every 5-6k miles. Currently 222k miles.
I have been getting cat inefficient codes and lean stuck O2 sensor signal Biased/Stuck Lean code P2195 Bank 1 sensor 1, as my exhaust leak has been getting louder, I think they are related. The theory is with an exhaust leak the o2 sensor reads rich and leans out the mix, but too much and the cats are over heated.
Also a new one P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1 which could mean a O2 sensor replacement.
My engine uses about 1-1.5 quarts every 5-6k miles. Currently 222k miles.
I have been getting cat inefficient codes and lean stuck O2 sensor signal Biased/Stuck Lean code P2195 Bank 1 sensor 1, as my exhaust leak has been getting louder, I think they are related. The theory is with an exhaust leak the o2 sensor reads rich and leans out the mix, but too much and the cats are over heated.
Also a new one P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1 which could mean a O2 sensor replacement.
#14
Well I got 2 new mid pipe sections welded in because there were like 6-8 leaks there right at the heat shields.
O2 sensor code was still there, and that makes sense because the exhaust leaks were after 2nd downstream sensor anyway.
Downstream sensore are alot more accessable. But I had problems with upstream.
Went to my friends shop to change out bank 1 upstream sensor, and we were there for 2 hours and couldnt get it off. It was very hard just to get the connector off and back on again.
The space is really tight and it was hard to get torque on it to turn it. We even broke a u-joint on the ratchet. We used PB Blaster and even a torch to heat things up again, no luck Is the solution an offset swivel flare crowfoot or to drop the midpipe (which the bolts look rusted) take out the passenger exhaust manifold (the header and front cat assembly) and then replace the sensor??
BTW the driver side bank 2 uipstream looks even harder to do.
O2 sensor code was still there, and that makes sense because the exhaust leaks were after 2nd downstream sensor anyway.
Downstream sensore are alot more accessable. But I had problems with upstream.
Went to my friends shop to change out bank 1 upstream sensor, and we were there for 2 hours and couldnt get it off. It was very hard just to get the connector off and back on again.
The space is really tight and it was hard to get torque on it to turn it. We even broke a u-joint on the ratchet. We used PB Blaster and even a torch to heat things up again, no luck Is the solution an offset swivel flare crowfoot or to drop the midpipe (which the bolts look rusted) take out the passenger exhaust manifold (the header and front cat assembly) and then replace the sensor??
BTW the driver side bank 2 uipstream looks even harder to do.
#15
This may sound like a copout but, I'd recommend taking this to an exhaust shop. These guys remove O2 sensors all the time and seem to be able to reach places I never can. It was easier in my case as I replaced my exhaust manifolds with 2 the from the wreaking yard and they already had the sensors removed. New ones screwed right in.