When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My Lex 2006 RX400h ~ Check VSC system ~ Check Hybrid System
Hybrid TechnologyUnique topics related to the 2004 -2009 RX400H model hybrid drivetrain and other features/options found only on the RX400H. Please use the main forum for discussion about shared components with other second generation RX models.
Thanks my husband tested the 12v battery and it was fine, then he jump started it to be sure and it read 13.7v on his voltage meter. He thinks it is, in fact, the inverter, that it could have a leak in the coolant and that could cause the inverter to overheat and burn out parts, which I believe that is what that recall was all about. Not sure if I explained that back correctly, Something like that. He is very mechanically inclined but hasn't worked on a hybrid before, so he found out that the orange covered wires are the HOT ones. I also printed what you posted for him to check. Thanks.
Again though, a battery can be in spec for voltage but be out of spec for cranking amps. This cannot be tested with a volt meter, but any auto parts store can test it.
So are you saying the vehicle jump started OK and ran? And that the battery read 13.7v while running?
Again though, a battery can be in spec for voltage but be out of spec for cranking amps. This cannot be tested with a volt meter, but any auto parts store can test it.
So are you saying the vehicle jump started OK and ran? And that the battery read 13.7v while running?
Is. The inverter coolant low?
No the car was not able to be jump-started, but the battery charged from the jump. We don't know if the coolant for the inverter is low yet, he researched which wires are hot before touching the hybrid system. Orange means HOT.
Please, with all due respect, you mentioned your husband is mechanically inclined.
But working on Hybrid systems with voltages is VERY dangerous.
That includes the ORANGE wires.
There are certain pre cautionary steps to do prior to working on these systems.
Anything on the engine side, have at it.
But poking around the orange stuff and not knowing how the system works is a risk.
Not worth it for me.
Please, with all due respect, you mentioned your husband is mechanically inclined.
But working on Hybrid systems with voltages is VERY dangerous.
That includes the ORANGE wires.
There are certain pre cautionary steps to do prior to working on these systems.
Anything on the engine side, have at it.
But poking around the orange stuff and not knowing how the system works is a risk.
Not worth it for me.
Be safe.
Thanks, he is aware of the high voltage, he won't be working on that part, but wanted to know which wires to stay away from. We will leave that to the mechanic that has the lift when he moves into his new shop. Thanks for the heads up. He warned us as well. Had I known this, I would have just purchased a non hybrid Lex, this has been a nightmare. My husband can fix anything on a regular gas vehicle.
Abnormal signal input from the ECM (abnormal engine output)
HV control ECU
SFI system
↑
205
Abnormal signal input from the ECM (engine is unable to start)
HV control ECU
SFI system
↑
533
Abnormal signal input from the ECM (abnormal engine output when running out of fuel)
HV control ECU
SFI system
↑
534
Abnormal signal input from the ECM (fuel level not sufficient to start the engine)
HV control ECU
SFI system
my advice to get the 12v battery tested remains, and I suggest testing the fuel rail pressure as well (testing kit at harbor freight is $20). Either of these simple tests should give insight.
Additionally, it is not a bad idea to inspect for buildup on the throttle body, and clean it while you are in there. This does not take long. Same goes for the MAF sensor. Use appropriate cleaners for each.
There is a traction battery (big hybrid battery that powers the orange line) kill switch under the passenger seat behind the driver. He can pull it out and be safer in his inspection of inverter.
UPDATE: Hi all, so I had my car towed to Lexus. They ran some tests and I will upload the photo of their final outcome remarks. They cleared all codes and got the car to start. $150 later, plus my $75 for towing... picked it up and after driving it only 10 miles of the 80 miles back home, all lights all came back on. Please tell me if you have any idea what all this means. See attached. So far I got home, but I am afraid to drive it, so it's parked. Thanks.
Originally Posted by mnewxcv
here is a little more info for you for each of the trouble codes you previously had:
my advice to get the 12v battery tested remains, and I suggest testing the fuel rail pressure as well (testing kit at harbor freight is $20). Either of these simple tests should give insight.
Additionally, it is not a bad idea to inspect for buildup on the throttle body, and clean it while you are in there. This does not take long. Same goes for the MAF sensor. Use appropriate cleaners for each.
BTW: We didn't replace the 12v battery as it was good. Lexus has apparently replaced it multiple times over the years, so this is an ongoing issue.
I have no idea why Lexus said that we just replaced it.
BTW: We didn't replace the 12v battery as it was good. Lexus has apparently replaced it multiple times over the years, so this is an ongoing issue.
I have no idea why Lexus said that we just replaced it.
What are your plans next? If you are swapping the fuel pump, its only $100 at autoparts store or even less at rock auto. Any mechanic should be able to change it out for $200-300 labor . Much cheaper than the $1300 they quoted.
I still recommend getting the 12v battery load tested. Any auto parts store will do this for free.
If there are lights on the dash, then there are codes being set. Since it drives, see if your local auto parts store can read the codes for you (again, most will do this for free). Kill 2 birds with one stone and get the battery tested properly and the codes read.
Which lights specifically are on on the dash, and what does the screen say?
Replace the fuel pump and strainer and go from there.
DENSO or OEM preferably and nothing else. <--- make sure it's GENUINE.
Dropping the tank is necessary for there is no access hole inside the vehicle.
The FUEL PUMP is affordable. (well, outside dealer prices)
It's the labor involve that is costing you.
Thanks everyone! still trying to figure this out while it's parked once again
Thanks, everyone, still trying to figure this out while it's parked once again. I am going to forward on your advice and hopefully figure out what we have to do to get my car on the road again trustworthy. I am scared to drive it now. If it's just the fuel pump, my husband can fix it. It will be a pain in the *** because he will have to drop my fuel tank to get to it and we don't have a lift. Does anyone know about the VSC check light that they are quoting me ABS Actuator $2,700? I can't believe I bought such a lemon Lex.
Also, can anyone recommend a decent inexpensive code scanner that can clear all codes including the check hybrid system? I really need one in the car so if I get stuck my husband can clear the code and get us home safely. That's all Lexus did, clear the codes. $150 later and $150 tow bill. Makes me sick.
PS: I also have an Ipad and iphone and computer and heard I may be able to get a software app and cord to do what the pros do at a fraction. LMK. thanks
Also, can anyone recommend a decent inexpensive code scanner that can clear all codes including the check hybrid system? I really need one in the car so if I get stuck my husband can clear the code and get us home safely. That's all Lexus did, clear the codes. $150 later and $150 tow bill. Makes me sick.
PS: I also have an Ipad and iphone and computer and heard I may be able to get a software app and cord to do what the pros do at a fraction. LMK. thanks
Do a search for techstream. You can get a knockoff dongle and software from amazon/ebay and it connects to your computer and comes with a cable to connect your laptop to the car. It can scan codes from all systems in the car, but requires a bit of tweaking to get it up and running, so you should be fairly savvy with computers. Windows only, not mac compatible.
As for clearing the code to get the car started if it stalls, I believe you can just disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear that particular code which keeps the car from restarting.
Do a search for techstream. You can get a knockoff dongle and software from amazon/ebay and it connects to your computer and comes with a cable to connect your laptop to the car. It can scan codes from all systems in the car, but requires a bit of tweaking to get it up and running, so you should be fairly savvy with computers. Windows only, not mac compatible.
As for clearing the code to get the car started if it stalls, I believe you can just disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear that particular code which keeps the car from restarting.
I already ordered this one, what do you all think?...
02-12-19, 06:19 PM
