Header on + Check Engine Light
#1
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I had my OBX header installed w/ the Y pipe it sounds great and feels good but my check engine light is on...dont kno if theres any sensors in the Y pipe but all the ones in the header itself r hooked up....any ideas????
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You need O2 simulatiors now. The code is a Bank1 and Bank2 low cat efficency codes....trust me on this...I had battled this for 2 weeks. I got the O2 sims and...no more problem.
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The new headers are still throwing a check engine light. At this point it is the front driver o2 sensor, have a new one to install.
I have read that the o2 sims work for a while then throw a light, this may be with newer OBD2 cars where as I have a OBD1.
I am also experiencing under a slight load either a lack of fuel or spark, causing the engine to jerk, then run fine. There have been some reports that this is related to the distibutor and or rotor ??????. My car probably does not have 10,000 miles since the rebuild, so find it hard to belive these parts have gone bad, but will check.
Right now I am trying to get either one of the tuners ( WeaponR or Steve's group ) to do a fianle computer tune. A long time a go my computer was modified with replacable chips so can have multiple tunes depending on the need just by replacing the two chips.
With the larger displacement, the headers made a noticable difference through out the rpm band. This week end plan to adjust fuel pressure to see if that has any benefit based on the increased exhaust flow. It is still amazing that our cars run as well as they do with the poorly designed stock exhaust manifold, where 3 out of the four ports enter at a 90 degree angle to the direction of the flow.
Question do the aftermarket air tubes place the air temp sensor in an enclosed area like the stock setup or do they just hang in the open air of the 3 inch tube??? any one know for sure???? thanks
I have read that the o2 sims work for a while then throw a light, this may be with newer OBD2 cars where as I have a OBD1.
I am also experiencing under a slight load either a lack of fuel or spark, causing the engine to jerk, then run fine. There have been some reports that this is related to the distibutor and or rotor ??????. My car probably does not have 10,000 miles since the rebuild, so find it hard to belive these parts have gone bad, but will check.
Right now I am trying to get either one of the tuners ( WeaponR or Steve's group ) to do a fianle computer tune. A long time a go my computer was modified with replacable chips so can have multiple tunes depending on the need just by replacing the two chips.
With the larger displacement, the headers made a noticable difference through out the rpm band. This week end plan to adjust fuel pressure to see if that has any benefit based on the increased exhaust flow. It is still amazing that our cars run as well as they do with the poorly designed stock exhaust manifold, where 3 out of the four ports enter at a 90 degree angle to the direction of the flow.
Question do the aftermarket air tubes place the air temp sensor in an enclosed area like the stock setup or do they just hang in the open air of the 3 inch tube??? any one know for sure???? thanks
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Not sure.....
This is the company that makes em...
Caspers Electronics...O2 sims for cars/trucks....
This is the company that makes em...
Caspers Electronics...O2 sims for cars/trucks....
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#8
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Originally posted by UncleNick
Not sure.....
This is the company that makes em...
Caspers Electronics...O2 sims for cars/trucks....
Not sure.....
This is the company that makes em...
Caspers Electronics...O2 sims for cars/trucks....
So which one did you get on the page below:
http://www.casperselectronics.com/cg...roduct=IMPORTS
#9
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Originally posted by stick
So which one did you get on the page below:
http://www.casperselectronics.com/cg...roduct=IMPORTS
So which one did you get on the page below:
http://www.casperselectronics.com/cg...roduct=IMPORTS
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