DUKE34

Hey, got a question for you guys. I am replacing the timing belt (and H2O pump while I'm there) on my 02 IS300 and have run into a problem, it seems there is no way to hold the crank from turning as I remove the crank pulley blot so as to remove the belt. I have tryed several different methods and have gotten some pretty good torque on it but at 230ftlbs it still holds as the crank slips. Have put sticks in gear in the past but this is an automatic. Looked for a place for a spanner wrench, but nothing. Any Ideas?

DonCorleone

iTrader: (6)

you can get a specialty service tool which basically holds the crank in place with two bolts while you use a deep socket on the crank bolt, I got mine from skywaytools for $80ish shipped. http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=24301

others have used a chain wrench and wrapped the crank pulley with a piece of belt to prevent damage.

others have had to pull the EFI fuse, brace a breaker bar against the ground and use the starter trick.

I tried everything except the chain wrench, it was on so tight I ended up having to grind down the head of the crank bolt and using a harmonic balancer puller to remove the pulley and then was I finally able to unscrew the bolt by hand.

DUKE34

Hey Don, great post, man you are not to be swayed, grinding the bolt and all, kudos to ya.
Yeah I found another trick, tryed C clamps on the rim of the harmonic balancer, but not enough foot to hold, so it struck me that I have a small vice, so unblolted from my table and was able to most of the jaws to mount to the botton of the balancer and a peace of 2X3 cut to the right length to wedge between the frame and the vice and wallaaa, she's off.

Hope we help the poor souls who want to do this job

DUKE34

Finished up today, runs out great. Wow I think 239ftlbs on the crank pulley is way over engineered, especialy when it has a keyway as well. I didn't bother to torque it back that tight but I did use a little locktite on the threads. Just a tip here, if you are going to do this job make sure you have all the parts in stock because alot are special order. The water pump I got lucky and found locally (definitely do the pump while you have the TB off, you don't want to go back here), but da.. if the O ring was'nt just a little bigger than the old one (a little smaller would have been fine guys) but I made it work by sticking it in a bed of HTemp permatex in the O ring grove also make sure your Tstat comes with a gasket, my guy says ohhh its sold seperately (now you tell me JO) so I got away with the old one with no leaks.

OK then I'm out.

DonCorleone

iTrader: (6)

yeah it's a pain, believe me I tried it all before grinding that sucker. broke 4 or 5 sockets, used 2 breaker bars, tried a 1in drive socket wrench, the starter trick, it got to the point where the head of the bolt was starting to round off, so I tried cutting a slit down the middle of the bolt head to try and relieve some of the force being applied to it, no dice. It may say 200ft/lb, but since it tightens the same way the engine crank spins, it continues to torque itself over the years.

+1 on having all the parts on hand, I did the waterpump, belt, o-rings and gaskets. Didn't replace the thermostat or pcv or tension etc...