UCA (Upper control arm) hitting
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UCA (Upper control arm) hitting
I've looked around and haven't seen much on this issue...
Equipment: IS300, Stock struts, aftermarket springs, aftermarket Upper Control Arms.
So I had a squeaking UCA and decided to replace both fronts with aftermarket adjustable tubular arms. The car rode like dream before the installation. Now it clanks like a big dog when hitting bumps. I haven't torn it down yet but I'm guessing the UCA is hitting the well.
On the GS forum I've seen people cutting out a hole for extra clearance but mine have a relatively flat and rectangular ball joint mount.
Any thoughts? I'd like to lick this issue before investing in coilovers.
Equipment: IS300, Stock struts, aftermarket springs, aftermarket Upper Control Arms.
So I had a squeaking UCA and decided to replace both fronts with aftermarket adjustable tubular arms. The car rode like dream before the installation. Now it clanks like a big dog when hitting bumps. I haven't torn it down yet but I'm guessing the UCA is hitting the well.
On the GS forum I've seen people cutting out a hole for extra clearance but mine have a relatively flat and rectangular ball joint mount.
Any thoughts? I'd like to lick this issue before investing in coilovers.
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In the interest of completing a thread...
My plan was to cut a square hole in the well and weld in a piece of 4" square tubing. Once I got it on the lift I could see that not only was the end of the control arm hitting, but the tubular arms themselves were also hitting a standing seam. So we ended up grinding down the extremes on the arms (at the ball join mount) and hammering down the standing seam in the wheel well where the arm was hitting.
So far I can tell it's better but I haven't given it the acid test yet which will be cruising with a front passenger.
My plan was to cut a square hole in the well and weld in a piece of 4" square tubing. Once I got it on the lift I could see that not only was the end of the control arm hitting, but the tubular arms themselves were also hitting a standing seam. So we ended up grinding down the extremes on the arms (at the ball join mount) and hammering down the standing seam in the wheel well where the arm was hitting.
So far I can tell it's better but I haven't given it the acid test yet which will be cruising with a front passenger.
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If the bump noise is from under the car by the floor then it's the lower control arm which is probably the tubular arm you were talking about, since that would probably be hitting first and is a little more common and easier to hear from inside the cabin even if the noise is faint..
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Did that fix the problem cuz i also bought that Megan control arm and my car was hittin hard on bumps i ussually could clear. i raised up the car a quarter of an inch and it fixed the problem for now. at high speed and i big bump i well still here the thump but owell...
#5
I heard this was a problem with our cars when we lower it..even in the stock uca it will clank on lowered cars..it's got to be damn near stock height in order to clear it...I was talking with a friend he said that he might have to cut his uca where it's hitting..might wanna see if this solves ur case too
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I never had a problem on stocks, but on the Megan control arms my mod DID fix the problem. Grinded down the corners on the outside of the ball joint mount AND hammered down one standing seam in each well. If you are planning to buy this type of UCA you should be ready to make those mods. Unless you like clank.
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im about to change the UCA back to the stock 1 jus so i dont have to mess with all that i dont really need them. Does any 1 know of any 1 lookin for these UCA? if i can sell it i well cuz if not they are jus goin to sit in my closet they have been on my car around 2 months now.
#10
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I have this same issue with my 04 is300 but I am running the godspeed UCA's. I have D2 RS coils 12k font and 7k rear. I'm not even tucking tire and I my control arms hit quiet alot and It is horrible. I tried hamming inside of strut tower with an air chisel and that helped me by a few MM......big whoop. They still hit. Long story short there is 3 ways to go about this.
1) But coil overs with 15k or higher front spring rate and max your damper out and hope for the best, also may want to hammer inside of strut tower.
2) Cut holes in your car. I would never do this so it not an option for me but to each his own.
3) This is the correct way but as usual most expensive way to do it. But Cusco front UCA and replace the ball joint with a low profile moon face ball joint from Japan. The moon face ball joint is 30mm tall where as the OEM one is 75mm tall. There for with the cusco arms you will be able to adjust camber as well as have 40mm more of room to lower your car and maintain correct suspension geometry. $700 bucks about for arm + moon face ball joint.
Ball joint: http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/ho...112altelj.html
1) But coil overs with 15k or higher front spring rate and max your damper out and hope for the best, also may want to hammer inside of strut tower.
2) Cut holes in your car. I would never do this so it not an option for me but to each his own.
3) This is the correct way but as usual most expensive way to do it. But Cusco front UCA and replace the ball joint with a low profile moon face ball joint from Japan. The moon face ball joint is 30mm tall where as the OEM one is 75mm tall. There for with the cusco arms you will be able to adjust camber as well as have 40mm more of room to lower your car and maintain correct suspension geometry. $700 bucks about for arm + moon face ball joint.
Ball joint: http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/ho...112altelj.html
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I'm curious if anyone has tried the new Megan arms, now Pink!(smh). It looks like they've redesigned the Ball Joint area and made them capable of Positive camber. I'm slamming my strut tower as well, I've looked at using the SPC joints, but they look like they would be even worse.
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