Auto to manual transition
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Auto to manual transition
Hey everyone I need a lot of guidance and personal experiences on switching my is300 to manual! Also looking to boost it on the stock motor. Suggestions and tips please! And any possible bumps I may encounter.
#4
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
As has been mentioned, the factory auto is reasonably strong... My car makes 500 and the auto is holding up nicely... Not everyone has that good of luck though... If you are swapping manual and want big power, r154 or v160/v161 are the transmissions to look at... The factory w55 transmissions are junk...
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As has been mentioned, the factory auto is reasonably strong... My car makes 500 and the auto is holding up nicely... Not everyone has that good of luck though... If you are swapping manual and want big power, r154 or v160/v161 are the transmissions to look at... The factory w55 transmissions are junk...
#6
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
You'll find as many opinions as there are options... Having done it both ways, here are your best options, IMO...
1) boost factory motor - good for 300-350 reliably, will need turbo kit, fuel system, ecu to control it
2) boost factory motor and build the bottom end - depending on what internals you choose, the sky is the limit (ge non-vvti or gte pistons and rods are easily good for 700 whp and a proper tune)
3) drop in GTE swap - wiring is a pain for sure, good for lots of power, same as #2, but stock turbo(s) only good for 400, so if you want more than 400, you need to do everything listed in #1 as well...
That addresses the motor aspect... Now, transmission...
Stock auto trans IS, I make 500 whp on a Mustang Dyno (probably 550-560 on a dynojet) on a stock trans with shimmed accumulators, however people have killed them with less... If you have a manual trans IS, don't plan on much more than 350 reliably... If you want big power, r154 or v160 manual swap, or a bunch of options if staying automatic...
1) boost factory motor - good for 300-350 reliably, will need turbo kit, fuel system, ecu to control it
2) boost factory motor and build the bottom end - depending on what internals you choose, the sky is the limit (ge non-vvti or gte pistons and rods are easily good for 700 whp and a proper tune)
3) drop in GTE swap - wiring is a pain for sure, good for lots of power, same as #2, but stock turbo(s) only good for 400, so if you want more than 400, you need to do everything listed in #1 as well...
That addresses the motor aspect... Now, transmission...
Stock auto trans IS, I make 500 whp on a Mustang Dyno (probably 550-560 on a dynojet) on a stock trans with shimmed accumulators, however people have killed them with less... If you have a manual trans IS, don't plan on much more than 350 reliably... If you want big power, r154 or v160 manual swap, or a bunch of options if staying automatic...
Trending Topics
#8
Also I would mention that to keep the auto alive with big power, you need to avoid full throttle shifts as much as possible. Full torque and high rpm shifts is where it will take the most stress.
#9
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ma
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am currently in the process of doing a 2jz gte vvti swap on mi IS. Have almost everything cover except the tranny. Have read and been refer several times to SRT and their full rebuild. So if anyone have input my Q: Are is it worth it and do I really need it? Not looking for 500hp just want an everyday driver with a little more kick..
Marinecorp sorry for ^^ figure u might have similar question in the future.
Marinecorp sorry for ^^ figure u might have similar question in the future.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post