Timing belt - preparation for surprises
#16
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Dunno the Toyota torque spec, but you can download the technical service manual for free in multiple places.
For what it's worth, I just gave the cam bolts a few hits with my electric impact set to level 2, which from experience tightens lug nuts to ~125lbft.
The VVTi cam bolt cap has a sealing washer on it. Mine was old and crappy. I discarded it and used red anerobic "gel seal" on the threads and flange of the cap. Did this on both cars. No issues...
For what it's worth, I just gave the cam bolts a few hits with my electric impact set to level 2, which from experience tightens lug nuts to ~125lbft.
The VVTi cam bolt cap has a sealing washer on it. Mine was old and crappy. I discarded it and used red anerobic "gel seal" on the threads and flange of the cap. Did this on both cars. No issues...
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Thank you everyone for all your help. We are on a roll again and putting everything back together. Hope to be done tomorrow.
I was able to find some of the specs... here they are
Camshaft Timing pulley bolt = 60 ft lbs
Crankshaft Pulley bolt = 240 ft lbs
Drive belt tensioner bolt = 15 ft lbs
Idler pulley = 26 ft lbs
Timing belt tensioner = 20 ft lbs
water pump bolts = 30 lbs ( note I am sure theses are for the larger bolts. the smaller ones are probably more like 15- 20)
I was able to find some of the specs... here they are
Camshaft Timing pulley bolt = 60 ft lbs
Crankshaft Pulley bolt = 240 ft lbs
Drive belt tensioner bolt = 15 ft lbs
Idler pulley = 26 ft lbs
Timing belt tensioner = 20 ft lbs
water pump bolts = 30 lbs ( note I am sure theses are for the larger bolts. the smaller ones are probably more like 15- 20)
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Agreed that you'll never "eyeball" it back to the absolute exact OEM position, but you can certainly get it within 1° if you scribe witness marks. Additionally, it's extremely obvious where the flange on the underside of the bolt head was touching. It's just not difficult to re-align upon reassembly.
What difference do you think ± 1° of cam timing makes, anyway?? Essentially zero. Your cam timing will vary by (much) more than 1° from theoretical just based on manufacturing tolerances of the cams, pulleys, belts, deck height of block etc, etc - to say nothing of belt stretch while being operated.
Regarding the seal leaking: it's just an o ring. It's not a complicated or challenging joint to properly seal. It's certainly not a 2-piece rear seal on an old small block V8.
All that said, by all means buy a new pulley if that's what you feel comfortable with. I was very comfortable "rebuilding" my pulley, and both I've done are working happily and are leak free.
What difference do you think ± 1° of cam timing makes, anyway?? Essentially zero. Your cam timing will vary by (much) more than 1° from theoretical just based on manufacturing tolerances of the cams, pulleys, belts, deck height of block etc, etc - to say nothing of belt stretch while being operated.
Regarding the seal leaking: it's just an o ring. It's not a complicated or challenging joint to properly seal. It's certainly not a 2-piece rear seal on an old small block V8.
All that said, by all means buy a new pulley if that's what you feel comfortable with. I was very comfortable "rebuilding" my pulley, and both I've done are working happily and are leak free.
Also I wouldn't say the difference is essentially zero. Especially when you have no data to back such claim.
#19
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+/- 1º cam timing will make effectively zero difference
Again, there is much more than 1º of cam timing variability on account of manufacturing tolerances on the block, head, the cams themselves and belt wear/stretch. It's entirely possible the inadvertent timing shift on account of pulley misalignment would make the actual timing CLOSER to theoretically correct.
Per your logic, you should be putting a degree wheel on your crank and be buying offset woodruff keys to set the intake camshaft timing, each time you replace your belt. For that matter, you should be checking/adjusting it throughout the life of your belt - because it is going to change over time.
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Thanks everyone for the inputs and help. Car started up just fine.
Just my 2 cents - from someone else that took the timing pulley off.
You need to remove some kind of bracket before you take the timing pulley off, or you will break a tooth on the pulley.
This small bracket is at the 4 or 5 o'clock position of the pulley.
Just my 2 cents - from someone else that took the timing pulley off.
You need to remove some kind of bracket before you take the timing pulley off, or you will break a tooth on the pulley.
This small bracket is at the 4 or 5 o'clock position of the pulley.
#21
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Thanks everyone for the inputs and help. Car started up just fine.
Just my 2 cents - from someone else that took the timing pulley off.
You need to remove some kind of bracket before you take the timing pulley off, or you will break a tooth on the pulley.
This small bracket is at the 4 or 5 o'clock position of the pulley.
Just my 2 cents - from someone else that took the timing pulley off.
You need to remove some kind of bracket before you take the timing pulley off, or you will break a tooth on the pulley.
This small bracket is at the 4 or 5 o'clock position of the pulley.
Anyway, don't forget to remove the little doodad he's talking about, or you'll break the timing-tooth and your car won't start or run properly.
Sorry for forgetting to mention this, Rockhound! Glad it all worked out for ya!
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