Hodgdon

Dunno the Toyota torque spec, but you can download the technical service manual for free in multiple places.

For what it's worth, I just gave the cam bolts a few hits with my electric impact set to level 2, which from experience tightens lug nuts to ~125lbft.

The VVTi cam bolt cap has a sealing washer on it. Mine was old and crappy. I discarded it and used red anerobic "gel seal" on the threads and flange of the cap. Did this on both cars. No issues...

Rockhound1

Thank you everyone for all your help. We are on a roll again and putting everything back together. Hope to be done tomorrow.

I was able to find some of the specs... here they are

Camshaft Timing pulley bolt = 60 ft lbs
Crankshaft Pulley bolt = 240 ft lbs
Drive belt tensioner bolt = 15 ft lbs
Idler pulley = 26 ft lbs
Timing belt tensioner = 20 ft lbs
water pump bolts = 30 lbs ( note I am sure theses are for the larger bolts. the smaller ones are probably more like 15- 20)

tonynca

iTrader: (2)

Isn't there only like 20 degrees of retard/advance available to VVTI? If you're off by 1-2 degrees you're basically limiting the working proper range of the VVTI cam. To each's own preference on whether what they consider worthwhile, but for $150 I'm OK with installing something I know would last well over 150k in the car.

Also I wouldn't say the difference is essentially zero. Especially when you have no data to back such claim.

Hodgdon

This has been tested myriad times by every OEM auto company and every engine shop worth a salt; and the internet has reams of data on it. But I'll sum it up for you: Shifting cam timing by a degree tends to shift the rpm where peak torque occurs by 75-100rpm. Retarding cam = peak torque occurs later, advancing cam = torque occurs sooner.

+/- 1º cam timing will make effectively zero difference

Again, there is much more than 1º of cam timing variability on account of manufacturing tolerances on the block, head, the cams themselves and belt wear/stretch. It's entirely possible the inadvertent timing shift on account of pulley misalignment would make the actual timing CLOSER to theoretically correct.

Per your logic, you should be putting a degree wheel on your crank and be buying offset woodruff keys to set the intake camshaft timing, each time you replace your belt. For that matter, you should be checking/adjusting it throughout the life of your belt - because it is going to change over time.

Rockhound1

Thanks everyone for the inputs and help. Car started up just fine.

Just my 2 cents - from someone else that took the timing pulley off.
You need to remove some kind of bracket before you take the timing pulley off, or you will break a tooth on the pulley.
This small bracket is at the 4 or 5 o'clock position of the pulley.

Hodgdon

For clarification, Rockhound1 is talking about the pulley on the CRANK, and the broken-tooth he's referring to are the teeth that the crank sensor looks at - the row of teeth on the far back of the pulley that stick out further than the teeth for the belt.

Anyway, don't forget to remove the little doodad he's talking about, or you'll break the timing-tooth and your car won't start or run properly.

Sorry for forgetting to mention this, Rockhound! Glad it all worked out for ya!

Revive

iTrader: (1)