Has anyone ever tried this combo before? I have looked thru threads but came up dry. So, I am asking for some earnest insight on this setup. I have read that ppl just slap a turbo on the 2jzge engine on low boost and run them 350-450hp. Some swap to a GTE setup in the GE and go with the MLS HG but how does it affect the CR? I'm sure people are afraid of the valves hitting the pistons, especially when having to retard the timing. I saw this video recently. Brandon Wicknick was building an 11.0:1 CR 2jzgte engine. Plus I want to upgrade the wrist pins to a .220. Does anyone know who supplies these for our OEM Pistons? Thanks in advance.

 

It's better to just custom build your engine and start fresh. At this point you're trusting some 20+ years old pistons and rods from some seller. Same with a GTE swap. I blew a stock piston on 402whp with 8psi. How many miles on your engine? You will probably need a complete engine refresh if you are aiming for over 400whp. I tore down my engine to replace the pistons and rods, sent the block and head out for a check. All cyls were tapered and some out of round. Some guides worn out in the head. Things that will cause big issues you'd never have just leaving it N/A. Things get bad quick with FI. I went with a set of Manley H-Tuff rods, and a set of GTE spec JE pistons. Along with a complete over bore and bearing replacement in the engine + valve job on the head. I told them the compression ratio I wanted and they got me a head gasket to get me there with the pistons. 9:1 to be exact for my pump gas build. It's expensive to do it right, but even more expensive to do it wrong, then end up doing it right, or just scrapping the project altogether once you blow the engine. I'd suggest using an expert to get your engine refreshed and use their knowledge on a compression ratio for your intended fuel and power goals. Don't forget about ARP head studs and main bolts if you want to go high power. If you go with Manley rods, they come with ARP rod bolts, and JE pistons all use Total-Seal rings. All top quality. I'm shooting for 800whp with this build. But still a work in progress because that requites substantial transmission work and big fuel system work.

 

I really appreciate your input. I totally agree with you on the refresh of the parts. I was looking at JE or Manley for pistons and Spa turbo or Manley for the rods. You have help make my decision much clearer. I was leaning heavily towards JE pistons and Spa turbo A rods combo ( Brazilian company that built VW parts but started making 2jz parts. They have built an 8.4 sec VW). I have 3 engines ( Got lucky btw, 1 is a non vvti and 2 vvti). I want to learn how to build these engines, because I have 2 cars I want to put them in. I have seen too many shops that have built engines and seen the nightmares and mistakes that were made. Plus, the shops don't really let you know the credibility or credentials of thier mechanics. You know about the guy with the name, not the mechanics. So right now I am currently tearing down one. I am willing to invest the time to learn the in and outs from other guys that have built 2jzs. So I am not willing to blow an engine with new parts incase I have made a mistake or over looked something. That's why I was looking to use the older parts on the first build and experiment with the CR. I know I didn't state that part. Hopefully, you would forgive me for that.

 

First off. You need to decide the overall use of the engine and power goals. Track only or only very high octane. High compression with boost is fine. But street. Availability and consumption of fuel are concerns usually. It boils down to response and torque vs head and exhaust flow. So what do you plan on doing with the car and what power are you looking for?

 

So my power goals are to start of with 350hp, then 450hp, to 575hp on pump gas. Plan is to use both for street, and occasional track use. Most people at least from what I have seen use at the highest 9.5 CR. I would like to know what the highest CR I can use with 18-20lbs of boost. I definitely plan to over build the engine to compensate for the power goals I want to achieve. I definitely agree with truegs300 that I have to upgrade my engine to compensate for the power gains I want to achieve, I looked into parts I need to replace that are the weak points of the 2jz. Which are the rods, pistons, main bearings, timing tensioner, MLS HG, crank-pulley, head and main studs, valve stems and valve springs. May have to upgrade the cam profiles later on down the road. My question still remains unanswered what is the highest compression ratio with forged internals has anyone done and what were the results?

 

Highest compression used is dependent on octane. So with pump gas. Basically 93 octane at the high side. You should look at around 9.5 at the highest. Now that being said. The over all goal as far as HP will be varied according to the volume of the turbo used. Example all being equal, But the compressor volume. A 78 mm will generate more volume than a 62 mm at the same boost measure. There ar several other factors, but this will give you an idea. Your goals re easy to get without cams or major head changes. Good rods and pistons will be needed. Also you will need a stand alone ECU etc...

 

Thanks 2001SolarY. Yeah, since I have the spare engine I was planning to push the envelop. I currently have a comp turbo shell. I was going to rebuild the cartridge. I was also going to use matchbot from the borg warner site to best match the turbo size required to achieve the HP goals I desire to achieve on the real build. However I still want to keep the stock compression to achieve it.Call me Greedy, but I have seen 1 other person from Real street (I think his name is Geo) that did it successfully in drag format. Just found the info on there website. I was looking @ fuel-tech ecu. It's expensive but I am willing to be patient. Plus I like the fact that they built a monitor and ecu into one. Their office is located in GA, plus they have a dyno. So, if I need to make adjustments to their ecu, they can make the adjustments on site. Maybe you want to help me build it??

 

I would get a Link ECU from Xcessive Manufacturing.
https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/toyota/is300.html
As for compression on boost. !0/1 is okay with some boost. The trick is timing and octane. You will find out you will lack the octane to get to the goal with the ratio like you want. Really need to be around 9/1 for the 600 hp range. This is for octane and being able to run good timing. Timing on the street makes more torque and more drive-able.

I will help if I can. We should try to meet up sometime. I am in Marietta.

 

Thanks for the insight and placing the hyperlink as well. I realized that advancing the timing and octane would be a challenge with my HP goals. I was also considering the Links ECU as well. I know AEM seems to be the standard, because it's an easy install. But I have also seen that people decide to upgrade from AEM to Haltech or some other ECU. I was looking for something responsive and decent torque. This gives me a clearer idea on what I need to do. This is the info I was really looking for. Thanks.

 

Agreed, if you are going for an E85 fuel system, high compression is fine, but for a street car on pump gas you need low compression. That's why I went with 9:1. I want to keep it a daily and E85 isn't easy to find. Any stand alone will easily handle your timing needs. I am using an AEM Infinity 506 ECU. Really you should just contact who your local tuner will be and go with what they are familiar with. You can get a great tune on any of them. But you don't want the tuner having to learn on your car.

 

@TrueGS300 What your experience with AEM infinity? Usually I see the AEM v2 on these motors. And who did your wiring?

 

V2 wasn't even a thing till recently right? I don't think one was actually made for these cars. I could be wrong, but anyways, the infinity is still top notch. There is a company called Boomslang that I got a plug and play harness for it to the car. The harness has the connectors for a wideband, a MAP, an IAT, etc. sensors that you need. Makes it simple, but it's expensive stuff. Around $2,500 for the ECU, the P&P harness, AEM's 3.5 bar MAP, Wideband o2, and IAT sensor. And of course tuning. You can save money wiring it up yourself. That harness was somewhere around $700 with tax and shipping if I remember. But once you have it, life is much easier. Boomslang also makes P&P harnesses for a number of tuning devices. Check them out. Top quality.

 

Oh and as far as experience, really good in a bad way lol. So here's what happened to me and why I say good. Short story. I turbo'd my car, kept it at the "safe" 8psi level of the wastegate. First tuned the car on an AEM FIC-6. This is the best piggyback ECU I could get my hands on. However piggybacks are terrible for daily driven cars and especially automatic trans. The tune still relies on the factory o2 sensors and the factory computer always fights back. If you have a gauge, you can see the ratio go out of whack constantly as the computer tries to go 14.7:1 while you are trying to go WOT and full boost. Lots of little issues. Poor idle etc. Anyways, the car made 315whp with the FIC-6, but I hated my drivability. I ended up with the Infinity and it's associated parts and went in for a re tune. Here's the good. Just by having the superior ECU, the car instantly made 402whp before blowing a piston ring land right there on the dyno. We weren't sure what happened at the time and made consistent 400whp runs on 5 cyls. So who knows what it would have made on all 6. I found out after looking into it later that cyl 1 was dead. Sucks that it happened, but the engine cannot be expected to support whatever the number would have been. I did not get to enjoy this gain, but am nearing compelling my rebuild with fully forged internals and the drop in compression. I will actually be able to turn up the boost now and shoot for 700-800whp.

So basically, you can make far better power, and even on 5 cyls, the drivability was better. You couldn't really feel a miss except at idle. Faster starts, better response, cleaner A/F ratios. The list goes on.

Just as a note, I do have BC 264 cams and a few special modifications of my own to make those numbers in case anyone is wondering how it made what it did.

 

@TrueGS300 thanks for the insight. I really appreciate you sharing your experience with a piggy system. I had considered that route as well. I saw numerous forums that had the same results. How do you like the AEM infinity Unit?