Right. But can I get subscriptions with my copy of techS?
would be nice if techS could live view and just be like hey its this

And yea they are pricey. Specially when it's per car. Was looking at all data, identifix and a few others.

 

Correct. Originally I thought the bat was dead, because I went to start it, everything came on but was clicking. Like the starter would or dead bat. Tried to jump it, didn't work still clicked. Hooked to my scanner, activated the starter test. Starter worked fine. Then after so long, getting irritated a bit and pushing the button kinda quick.... Then out of no where. No click.no cluster. No nothing. BRICKED. noticed tails weren't coming on when I was checking everything, checked the stop lamp switch, replaced it. Now brake lights are there but not cluster or clicks or light on push button. So it will not switch between off acc ig.

 

Update.....

Sonim playing with my obd scanner....
Push button tests good. I can get green and amber. I can get most to test.... But not the steering lock. Wheel stays free.
Has code b2289 key correlation

 

I thought you might find these helpful but see you made some progress. What changed?

Do a search for Handshaking (handshake) ECU. It's done with battery charger on and its takes 30 min. There are youtube videos of guy doing an IS-F. Its the old paper clip to the DLC plug. I'm not saying that is your current problem but you should certainly read up on it as the ECU appears to think it's being violated.

Make sure these nodes have power.

 

OP, pay for the subscription. It tells you all the play by play steps to resolve B2289. Start by erasing that fault and see what happens.

 

Yeah I thought about doing the paper clip bypass Way but my scanner is bi-directional and I can get to that menu through my scanner and I also have a bootleg version of text stream that I can do it with and it's weird because it'll communicate with the car so it's obviously recognizing it cuz it'll let me access other modules but when I go to the smart key module to be able to do the ECU handshake it says it lost connection so I haven't been able to attempt that. Thank you for the diagrams I'll definitely dive into that here real soon and see if I can get any other progress and to be honest only thing I've done is change out the brake light switch cuz that was bad there's no lights on the push button like the amber or the blue it's just the illuminated start whatever label and to be honest with you that could have already been there I wasn't messing around with it at night so I could see it like that I was going to pull the switch out and test it but with my bi-directional scanner I was able to get their amber and blue lights to come on I still might pull it out though and as far as the subscription I want to do that but I don't know if I can access it with my version of textstream you know I haven't been able to get it straight answer on if I can use it or not

 

Try connecting starter directly to 12V booster or battery.
Any sound or movement?

 

Went through all 4 fuse boxes. Here's what I found, not sure of this is how it's supposed to be or not.

box 1. IG2MAIN has good fuse @ 12.9
Box 2. IG2 #14 fuse has no power but good fuse.
IG2 relay has power (12.9) and a good relay.

Box 1. Starter relay.. good relay w power. Starter fuse #15 (30a fusable link) good
box 2. Starter cut relay has no power and good relay

box 2. Fuel pump fuse #18 25a good fuse and has power.
Fuel pump relay has no power but good relay.

Box 2. Steering lock #9 fuse 25a good fuse and has power. But yet steering lock is not active wheel turns freely.

Box 2. Fan no 2 no power and bad relay

also thumbing through a manual I do have, I found a dlc3 test. (Attached pic)
My readings were
+Pulse on scope ☑️
12.9v ☑️
9.4 ohms (supposed to be under 1ohm)
9.4 ohms (supposed to be under 1 ohm)
Unless I'm reading my meter wrong and it's .94 ohms. It's a auto function fluke

As far as jumping the starter, gonna try. Do I just run a POS wire from POS bat to starer?
I puller the push button to test. But there is a lot of pins, unsure of how to test it.

also, I've been hesitant on resetting keys, but Im going to do that now. My scanner and techstream both will do the reset.

And I read somewhere that the car will remember what mode it was in at batt failure..... Thinking mine is stuck in acc, as my switch box for my air ride is stuck on.

 

All of that above is with the key but obviously car is not running so, I can imaging a bunch of stuff is not powered.

I'd say focus on the B code you pulled.
IMO Testing the starting by jumping it, or the relay is pointless if it worked fine before as the immobilizer electronics are not satisfied atm.

 

Yea think imma call a locksmith out here tomorrow. See if they can reprogram.

 

Well.....
managed to use the erasure function in TS. erased everything and reprogrammed the keys. Started beeping, so I knew I was getting somewhere.

After hours of tinkering, she started and is running smooth. Need to figure out the programming of the locks as all the fobs fo is start it right now. But I'll take it.

The dumb death rattle from the exhaust cam gear never sounded so good!!
Thanks for the help guys.

 

When bad sounds sound good! lol

Good job!