LEXXXUS801

Hey fellas,
06 350, and with the exception of the annoying engine rattle, car does and always has ran great. Shes been sitting, due to my hesitation to drive her for the rattle. Got in to start yesterday, no crank no start. Thought it was battery. Replaced it but then realized she was on a tender. So.... Anyways...she would just click like a dead battery. New battery still no crank no start. Just clicks. With some irritation I was tapping the start button.. now no clicks. No cluster lights. No remotes. No acc or ig.
Noticed tonight no brake lights so I'm about to check the brake switch. All relays and fuses are good. Can hook my scanner to it and activate the starter bit won't turn over. Threw a immobilizer code. Wondering if it forgot the fobs .. but if it forgot the fobs ... Why no brake lights. Any input would be great. Kind of scratching my head here. As of now no ig or acc. So scanner is limited. Can't do anything with this thing but the dealer is a joke

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Pull the battery and have it load tested.
Did you check all three fuse box locations?
By the battery and the fuseable links under the clear cover?
Over the wheel well and under the dash?

Any chance the polarity was reversed during battery install?

When you get a few things to work, press the fob to the push button and see if anything comes to life.

LEXXXUS801

Off the jump I thought dead battery. So I just went and warranty it. So it a new fresh batt. I checked all 4 fuses boxes. Every single fuse has good polarity. Checked all relays. Fusable link has polarity and looks fine from what I can see.

I'm thinking with the battery dying, it tripped the immobilizer, and maybe the brake switch just happened to go out?? I need to crawl under there and see if brake switch is good or not. But I would think that the cluster would still light. I'm not getting the cluster light up, lighted push button. Or any notification. About the key. Just says moonroof open. Def seems like it's not getting power just don't know if the brake switch would cause that. Could totally be the immobilizer.

LEXXXUS801

Pulled the stop light switch. It was bad. Replaced it. I got brake lights again. BUT .. still no power to the cluster. No power to the push button. Still dead in the water.
Hood battery is good. All Fuses and fusable link are good. Still thinking it has something to do with immobilizer. Maybe the push button is bad too?
seen on other posts asking about battery polarity, my battery was hooked up backwards on the last battery momentarily. But that was like a year ago and has been fine since. Recently was tracking down the stock back up camera wiring to make stock cam work with my Android Tesla headunit. Other than that we everything has been perfect. Went to start it the other day to air out the air ride, and it was all clicks with cluster lit. Then poof no lights no click no start

Alternet

If all fuses/links are good then it sounds like a bad ground... did you check the grounds?

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

You can't just ohm across an installed fuse and get reliable information even with the battery disconnected. I suggest you look at the OEM manual (more details then fuse cover lid) and read the details of what each fuse does and then go after the fuses that speak to engine operations, immobilizer, Ignition, injectors, fuel pump, ecu and mpx communications.

After 3 pedal presses, you may have to put your leg into getting the pedal low enough to activate the switch.

Has the battery ever reversed polarity?

LEXXXUS801

Not sure which grounds to check? So no I have not yet.

LEXXXUS801

I created a print out of all fuse locations and duties. I've went over them numerous times. Only one that had any issues was the cigarette lighter. Going to go through em one by one pulling them to physically check. Because I've had something like that before. So far I've just done a continuity test on them all and a majority of relays.

And yea pedal was pretty tight but it's activating. And this battery has not. But the previous one did.
Fusable link looks and seems good. Unless it's unseen.

been reading some stuffs here about the Id box tucked back back behind the dash. Was thinking maybe the push button itself. But it did have a immobilizer code right before it lost power. I'm kinda thinking it's something to do with that. Got a troubleshooting manual just trying to pick where to start and try to understand it.

Before it lost power my cando scanner was reading the immobilizer code and I went through some tests. Starter and such.. all tested good. Just wouldnt kick over like the immobilizer was stopping it. Security light stays flashing. Light all work just none of the things that come on with the key press. I did notice as well in the raw data on the scanner, it says no master or sub key programmed. Like the car forgot about the keys and thinks it's getting stolen so it just locked up.

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

Sound like a Starter, like the starter is intermittently failing. I'm not sure you can really get a test that tells you the Starter is intermittently failing?

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

You may need to start looking at schematics. You can use Toyota TIS or I bought a 5 year subscription to www.alldatadiy.com for $60.

It will help understand what should get powered as it should light up the LCD display in the dash with Key Not detected and you don't have that.

Using the stuff you printed, perhaps take your DMM and measure what fuses are on when the car is off and press the Start button and see what if anything changes? At this point I'd also be getting that clear plastic cover off the fuseable links for a better inspection and test if its powered as maybe you popped the main fuse and that would kill a lot.

LEXXXUS801

Would the starter cause no power to push button or cluster?

LEXXXUS801

Kind of what I was thinking. I was wondering I got me a "copy" of techstream, can I do subscriptions with that? Or will it not let me. And yea think it's def going to have to get in deep to it. I took clear of fusable link. It looks great. Tests great through out.

LEXXXUS801

5 years for 60.00!!! Damn need that. I've looked at a few online things. More like twice that per year

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

That was before COVID! lol
Do a search for that URL on this site and include PROMO. You'll find a post of mine on the topic. I bought one for the Tundra too. Anywho, try the promo word with last year as the year, see if it works.

OP, Nah, you need a Techstream subscription.

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

Ah maybe I miised something? So you said no start but a click? But no instrument lights come on with the foot on brake and one push?