Issue with installation of new rear hubs, rotors, pads
09-04-23, 09:35 AM
#16
I don't even know if that shield is for sale?
Given the sensor is 99% toast, I'd do some measuring and possibly drill the sensor out. Just don't go to far.
PS - an option to hopefully remove it in one piece is to drill a very small hole along side the sensor.
Given the sensor is 99% toast, I'd do some measuring and possibly drill the sensor out. Just don't go to far.
PS - an option to hopefully remove it in one piece is to drill a very small hole along side the sensor.
10-30-23, 09:01 AM
#17
2nd gear
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I’m having the same issue after changing my rear wheel hub .. do you have a solution
TLDR: I have an 08 350 and I recently replaced all my rotors, pads and rear hubs and started running to issues. I have an ABS, Brake, Traction and Power Steering light on my dash and also my fuel gauge is jumping back and forth between 1/4 and 1/2 (should be around 1/2). I understand the ABS, Traction and Brake light as I may have damaged the rear wheel speed sensor in the process of installing the new hubs but the others don’t make sense.
Please read further for detailed process of what happened.
Replacing my front rotors and pads were a breeze, nothing hard and looked good to me. The rears were the hardest to do. The hubs were rusted shut in place and wouldn’t come off the back shield or knuckle after unbolting the Allen type bolts from the back. Me and my friend first attempted to disassemble the suspension and tilt the knuckle but the ball joints would not slide off the mounts that attached to the knuckle so we decided to rent a gear puller kit to pull the hub by pushing in the axle. The rear left was what we started with and I believe due to us trying to hammer/vibrate the hub off, it moved enough to allow the hub come off as one (rear rights were a different story). It came off quickly and there was lots of corrosion debris where the hub sat. The axle guard or whatever it is, that holds the wheel speed sensor came off with the axle and we didn’t find this to be concerning until later on. After that we moved onto the rear right and since we didn’t try to hammer/vibrate the hub and jumped straight to the gear puller, only the inner race came flying off and the outer race of the hub remained on the knuckle. We tried PB Blaster and brake clean but it didn’t work, however luckily we ran into a Lexus tech when going out for food and he recommended to pour brake fluid into the crack where the hub is against the back shield and chisel/pry it out. This surprisingly worked and that side was free, this time the axle guard with the hole for wheel speed sensor was still in the knuckle, instead of on the axle. With everything off, we moved to installing the new rear hubs, rotors and pads.
After cleaning off the corrosion, this is a northern state car, the rear right hub went on okay, getting the Allen type bolts on is hard enough as it is, handing tightening as much as we could. The rotor was simple to put on but the caliper looked like an issue as it seemed the pads closest to you didn’t have much space to go in, while the farthest from you had a bunch of space. My friend realized that the caliper pin inside is probably seized as the caliper should be able to slide in and out fairly easily. This would then happen on the other rear caliper. The rear right was finished up and it did seem hard to turn by hand but I don’t know if that’s due to powertrain friction or just the new hubs needing to be driven around first. We could still do it by putting lug nuts on the rotor and using a pry bar to turn it, having the castle nut torqued made it worse, but just speculations we had. Moving onto the rear left, this is where we had the issues with the wheel speed sensor. We had to put the axle in with the guard over the axle and the hub attached to push the original wheel speed sensor back in. The guard area with the hole for the sensor had some sort of plastic/spongy material that I wasn’t sure of, potentially the remains of the sensor after we gear pulled the original hub off and the guard going with the axle or just a sort of seal to hold it in place. I didn’t notice it on the rear right as it was already in and didn’t take note of it. We removed the wheel speed sensor off the rear left so we could drop it into the axle guard hole with some pliers as it was very stuck on or possibly corroded in the knuckle for the hole of the sensor. After the sensor was aligned and bolted into the bracket, we bolted the hub all the way in and started installing the rotors and pads. The pads has the same issue with the rear right but we pushed out the caliper and granted a lot more space, still feeling seized however. We torqued all the wheels down and started the car and pumped the brakes, it felt good and we didn’t lose any brake fluid from doing all this over night.
We checked the ebrake and the regular brakes and they worked. Then we moved onto the point of braking the pads in. Once I got out of the driveway, I had the Brake, ABS and Traction lights come on. I read the codes and they were C0215, C1241, B2620 which seemed to relate to the wheel speed sensor. I had no reading from the speedometer on the dash either, it was always 0. We started the brake in process anyways. Initially, the power steering felt smoother than usual and out of nowhere it became stiff and a moment later the power steering light came on. When decelerating hard, the rear abs didn’t work and it locked up the rear wheels. Still ignoring these and doing the brake in process, the fuel gauge started jumping around. I’m not sure if this was due to the brake in process decelerations sloshing the fuel around but this still continued even when driving at a constant speed. After we finished the brake in process, we lifted the rear, took the wheels off and saw that the rear calipers didn’t fully push in the pads and the pads were wobbling around, making the rears accelerate then decelerate when just keeping it in drive. There’s a constant whirling and we assume it’s coming from the pads. I later drove 30 miles home with no issue, just the sound coming from the rotor/pad. Retuning home, the pad marks on the rotor looked nothing special. I have yet to check the codes after being mentioned above but will update tomorrow with pictures included.
I am not sure what to do, the Lexus tech we spoke to earlier that day did say those wheel speed sensors go bad so it’s best to replace so I will do that. I’m not sure whether or not to replace the rear calipers however. Regarding power steering and the fuel gauge, I’m completely lost on that. Please let me know if you know anything about this particular issue and if I didn’t make the most sense in this explanation.
Please read further for detailed process of what happened.
Replacing my front rotors and pads were a breeze, nothing hard and looked good to me. The rears were the hardest to do. The hubs were rusted shut in place and wouldn’t come off the back shield or knuckle after unbolting the Allen type bolts from the back. Me and my friend first attempted to disassemble the suspension and tilt the knuckle but the ball joints would not slide off the mounts that attached to the knuckle so we decided to rent a gear puller kit to pull the hub by pushing in the axle. The rear left was what we started with and I believe due to us trying to hammer/vibrate the hub off, it moved enough to allow the hub come off as one (rear rights were a different story). It came off quickly and there was lots of corrosion debris where the hub sat. The axle guard or whatever it is, that holds the wheel speed sensor came off with the axle and we didn’t find this to be concerning until later on. After that we moved onto the rear right and since we didn’t try to hammer/vibrate the hub and jumped straight to the gear puller, only the inner race came flying off and the outer race of the hub remained on the knuckle. We tried PB Blaster and brake clean but it didn’t work, however luckily we ran into a Lexus tech when going out for food and he recommended to pour brake fluid into the crack where the hub is against the back shield and chisel/pry it out. This surprisingly worked and that side was free, this time the axle guard with the hole for wheel speed sensor was still in the knuckle, instead of on the axle. With everything off, we moved to installing the new rear hubs, rotors and pads.
After cleaning off the corrosion, this is a northern state car, the rear right hub went on okay, getting the Allen type bolts on is hard enough as it is, handing tightening as much as we could. The rotor was simple to put on but the caliper looked like an issue as it seemed the pads closest to you didn’t have much space to go in, while the farthest from you had a bunch of space. My friend realized that the caliper pin inside is probably seized as the caliper should be able to slide in and out fairly easily. This would then happen on the other rear caliper. The rear right was finished up and it did seem hard to turn by hand but I don’t know if that’s due to powertrain friction or just the new hubs needing to be driven around first. We could still do it by putting lug nuts on the rotor and using a pry bar to turn it, having the castle nut torqued made it worse, but just speculations we had. Moving onto the rear left, this is where we had the issues with the wheel speed sensor. We had to put the axle in with the guard over the axle and the hub attached to push the original wheel speed sensor back in. The guard area with the hole for the sensor had some sort of plastic/spongy material that I wasn’t sure of, potentially the remains of the sensor after we gear pulled the original hub off and the guard going with the axle or just a sort of seal to hold it in place. I didn’t notice it on the rear right as it was already in and didn’t take note of it. We removed the wheel speed sensor off the rear left so we could drop it into the axle guard hole with some pliers as it was very stuck on or possibly corroded in the knuckle for the hole of the sensor. After the sensor was aligned and bolted into the bracket, we bolted the hub all the way in and started installing the rotors and pads. The pads has the same issue with the rear right but we pushed out the caliper and granted a lot more space, still feeling seized however. We torqued all the wheels down and started the car and pumped the brakes, it felt good and we didn’t lose any brake fluid from doing all this over night.
We checked the ebrake and the regular brakes and they worked. Then we moved onto the point of braking the pads in. Once I got out of the driveway, I had the Brake, ABS and Traction lights come on. I read the codes and they were C0215, C1241, B2620 which seemed to relate to the wheel speed sensor. I had no reading from the speedometer on the dash either, it was always 0. We started the brake in process anyways. Initially, the power steering felt smoother than usual and out of nowhere it became stiff and a moment later the power steering light came on. When decelerating hard, the rear abs didn’t work and it locked up the rear wheels. Still ignoring these and doing the brake in process, the fuel gauge started jumping around. I’m not sure if this was due to the brake in process decelerations sloshing the fuel around but this still continued even when driving at a constant speed. After we finished the brake in process, we lifted the rear, took the wheels off and saw that the rear calipers didn’t fully push in the pads and the pads were wobbling around, making the rears accelerate then decelerate when just keeping it in drive. There’s a constant whirling and we assume it’s coming from the pads. I later drove 30 miles home with no issue, just the sound coming from the rotor/pad. Retuning home, the pad marks on the rotor looked nothing special. I have yet to check the codes after being mentioned above but will update tomorrow with pictures included.
I am not sure what to do, the Lexus tech we spoke to earlier that day did say those wheel speed sensors go bad so it’s best to replace so I will do that. I’m not sure whether or not to replace the rear calipers however. Regarding power steering and the fuel gauge, I’m completely lost on that. Please let me know if you know anything about this particular issue and if I didn’t make the most sense in this explanation.
Do you have the solution to this problem ? I’m experiencing the same issue now … Speedometer won’t work PS is on
11-06-23, 10:51 AM
#18
ABS, VSC and Brake lights on after replacing left rear hub
2008 IS350: I’m having a similar issue after replacing the rear left hub: VSC, ABS and Brake lights are on. No DTC codes but the LEXUS-specific app on my Autel scanner detects an ABS issue but no description of the issue.
The speed sensor was stuck/seized so I left it in place, but I did unplug it from the harness. I had forgotten to plug it back in before I turned on the car to bleed the brake line. I noticed the those 3 lights were on so turned off the engine, plugged the connector into the wheel hub speed sensor and restarted the car. The 3 lights were still on. I took the car for a 20 mile drive: brakes work well but at reduced engine power, which seems normal for this car under these DTCs.
Question: should the lights have turned off automatically if everything is okay (example, speed sensor was not damaged)? Or are they latching lights that need to be cleared somehow? (My scanner has a clear function but the lights didn’t even blink when I pressed the clear button so I assume that’s the wrong method).
PS: I made extra sure the axle dust cover was lined up and centered so I assume it did not damage the sensor. And the hubs are Detroit Axle.
The speed sensor was stuck/seized so I left it in place, but I did unplug it from the harness. I had forgotten to plug it back in before I turned on the car to bleed the brake line. I noticed the those 3 lights were on so turned off the engine, plugged the connector into the wheel hub speed sensor and restarted the car. The 3 lights were still on. I took the car for a 20 mile drive: brakes work well but at reduced engine power, which seems normal for this car under these DTCs.
Question: should the lights have turned off automatically if everything is okay (example, speed sensor was not damaged)? Or are they latching lights that need to be cleared somehow? (My scanner has a clear function but the lights didn’t even blink when I pressed the clear button so I assume that’s the wrong method).
PS: I made extra sure the axle dust cover was lined up and centered so I assume it did not damage the sensor. And the hubs are Detroit Axle.
Last edited by Crickets; 11-06-23 at 11:54 AM.
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jamaicanbeefpatty (12-02-23)
05-26-24, 04:23 PM
#20
1st Gear
Join Date: Aug 2022
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Stupid aftermarket hubs!
So I've had a similar problem to you guys. My is250 new to me. The previous owner had replaced the left rear hub and managed to destroy both the dust shield and the sensor in doing so and the tone ring was also bad because of the dust shield not being pressed in properly. There was also some grinding noises coming from some of the other hubs, so I went ahead and ordered a full set of replacement hubs for the entire car. Unfortunately, it seems that in a couple of those hubs the tone rings are of substandard quality. I had the speedometer problem due to a bad tone ring in the right rear hub. So I ended up replacing it again, now the speedometer works and the power steering system is back. But the after clearing the codes, I had the abs, brake and traction control lights come back after 1/4 mile. Before that the traction control light would blink like the car was slipping. So I hooked up the computer for live data and after watching the 4 sensors the LR would intermittently drop to 0 then go back to the correct speed. Changing the sensor didn't make any difference, Hoping it was a small break the wiring harness I rewired it only to have the exact same result. So I guess I will be replacing that hub again.... Then we will see.
On another note, the dust ring can be ordered for about $25 from Lexus. To properly get it pressed onto the back side of the hub I used a screwdriver to keep the hole aligned, then using some 1/4" nylon or hemp cord wrapped in the groove of the axle where the dust shield should be, I put the hub onto the splines of the axle and use the axle nut to bring the axle tight, the cord pulls the dust shield onto the back side of the hub straight while having enough give to maintain an even gap around the axle and dust shield. One the shield is in place I loosened the axle nut to push the axle in enough to remove the cord.
On another note, the dust ring can be ordered for about $25 from Lexus. To properly get it pressed onto the back side of the hub I used a screwdriver to keep the hole aligned, then using some 1/4" nylon or hemp cord wrapped in the groove of the axle where the dust shield should be, I put the hub onto the splines of the axle and use the axle nut to bring the axle tight, the cord pulls the dust shield onto the back side of the hub straight while having enough give to maintain an even gap around the axle and dust shield. One the shield is in place I loosened the axle nut to push the axle in enough to remove the cord.
Last edited by es250nut; 05-26-24 at 04:41 PM.
05-27-24, 11:42 AM
#21
So I've had a similar problem to you guys. My is250 new to me. The previous owner had replaced the left rear hub and managed to destroy both the dust shield and the sensor in doing so and the tone ring was also bad because of the dust shield not being pressed in properly. There was also some grinding noises coming from some of the other hubs, so I went ahead and ordered a full set of replacement hubs for the entire car. Unfortunately, it seems that in a couple of those hubs the tone rings are of substandard quality. I had the speedometer problem due to a bad tone ring in the right rear hub. So I ended up replacing it again, now the speedometer works and the power steering system is back. But the after clearing the codes, I had the abs, brake and traction control lights come back after 1/4 mile. Before that the traction control light would blink like the car was slipping. So I hooked up the computer for live data and after watching the 4 sensors the LR would intermittently drop to 0 then go back to the correct speed. Changing the sensor didn't make any difference, Hoping it was a small break the wiring harness I rewired it only to have the exact same result. So I guess I will be replacing that hub again.... Then we will see.
On another note, the dust ring can be ordered for about $25 from Lexus. To properly get it pressed onto the back side of the hub I used a screwdriver to keep the hole aligned, then using some 1/4" nylon or hemp cord wrapped in the groove of the axle where the dust shield should be, I put the hub onto the splines of the axle and use the axle nut to bring the axle tight, the cord pulls the dust shield onto the back side of the hub straight while having enough give to maintain an even gap around the axle and dust shield. One the shield is in place I loosened the axle nut to push the axle in enough to remove the cord.
On another note, the dust ring can be ordered for about $25 from Lexus. To properly get it pressed onto the back side of the hub I used a screwdriver to keep the hole aligned, then using some 1/4" nylon or hemp cord wrapped in the groove of the axle where the dust shield should be, I put the hub onto the splines of the axle and use the axle nut to bring the axle tight, the cord pulls the dust shield onto the back side of the hub straight while having enough give to maintain an even gap around the axle and dust shield. One the shield is in place I loosened the axle nut to push the axle in enough to remove the cord.
That's clever! Hopefully it's fully seated.
This thread is clearly a lesson, not all rear hubs are created equally. I hate doing things twice, it'll be OEM parts going in if I do this.
08-06-24, 05:59 AM
#22
I attempted to fix the sensors and dust shield a couple of weeks ago but the dust shield was deformed and the sensors were logged in where I had to drill them out. Didn’t want to drop the diff either so I wouldn’t mess anything up that I didn’t know about. Had it taken to a shop where the bill was lower than expected so I went with the convenience. They had to replace the sensors, dust shields, and hubs, and also something to do with the abs wiring for some reason. This was all done by unbolting the suspension links. Well it’s over now after a year of driving with no speedometer, hope this thread helped with anyone that is planning to do this in the future.
08-06-24, 03:55 PM
#23
I attempted to fix the sensors and dust shield a couple of weeks ago but the dust shield was deformed and the sensors were logged in where I had to drill them out. Didn’t want to drop the diff either so I wouldn’t mess anything up that I didn’t know about. Had it taken to a shop where the bill was lower than expected so I went with the convenience. They had to replace the sensors, dust shields, and hubs, and also something to do with the abs wiring for some reason. This was all done by unbolting the suspension links. Well it’s over now after a year of driving with no speedometer, hope this thread helped with anyone that is planning to do this in the future.
Glad it's fixed. Unfortunate the cost.
Can we start a list of what brands work?
Can you list the PN's used and manufacturer?
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