Jbobrelly

So I bought a car assuming the fusible link was blown. My fusible link is not blown. I’ve checked all the fuses and all the fuse panels with a voltmeter all checked out fine. My key fob does not lock or unlock the doors. It will not pop the trunk Either. My battery is brand new in my key fob. When I get into my car and hit the start button, nothing happens. I do not get a light of any kind on my push button start. Nothing on the dash comes on. I replaced the push button start with exact same part from a junkyard because they only charged me $10 for it. Nothing changed when switched with the different one. I’m having a problem locating clear direction on what actually powers up the push button start. It seems that the only things that work in the car are things that do not need a computer to control them. Which, unfortunately on this generation is almost nothing. Interior lights, brake lights, Seat controls, things like this. The trunk pop button doesn’t even work in the car. I also replace the battery as it came with a completely dead one. I was told from the person that I bought the car from he took a flight somewhere, and when he came back, this is what he found , he assumed his battery was dead so he tried to jumpstart it and nothing happened. Which is why I assumed it was his fusible link. I figured he just hooked the battery cables up backwards.
I appreciate anybody who’s hanging in there and reading all of this. I’m not sure what sends power to the push button start. I would love to understand how that system works a bit better. Then maybe I could understand what the culprit is. The stealership wants to throw parts at it stating that after a $4000 charge they cannot be certain that this is what actually is the problem. They want to install a code ID box with certification ECU, as apparently the two are married together. And can only be replaced as a set. The code ID box apparently attaches to the heater core somewhere and it is a ton of work to replace. They also said while they are at it, they will replace the steering lock ECU as well. Because you have to remove it to replace one of the other items and it just makes sense if it’s already out to replace it. I know on Toyota and Lexus cars. If you get in with out your key fob in your pocket and try to start it a warning comes up on the dash that the key is not present. And an orange light will come up on the push button start. This is why I’m skeptical of their diagnostic, any information would be greatly appreciated, especially if someone has access to a wiring diagram that shows me how power is supposed to get to the push button start and from where. Thanks for any help!!

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

@Dukenukemx

Any advice on this?

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...s-nothing.html

Dukenukemx

I had a similar issue recently. I'll link the thread to it even though MikeFig82 did it anyway. My suggestion is get yourself as it can read codes from the ECU even though you can't get the car to go into accessories. In my case I had two codes B2289 and B2287 which mean there was a problem with the LIN wire from the power ecu to key module ecu. Turns out I had a broken wire due to water. Without codes you won't have any direction, so you need that TechStream software and cable. Could be something like a bad ID code reader drawing power and keeping the system from responding, or even the power steering module causing the same issue.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...nothing-2.html

Dukenukemx

Just wanna add that if the ID code reader or power steering modules are bad, you can just unplug them and see if the car responds. That's what I've seen in videos online, which are in the thread where I've tried to fix my car. I would of course wait until you get TechStream working first because if those are bad you will get codes. The ID code reader is harder to reach because it's in the dash on top, but that would be a last resort after you get codes that point at that module.