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This is not a good kit if you are chasing peak HP or top end power
The ECU that came with the kit and been worked by TOM's runs super rich. And it is locked so we cannot remap it. However, we are coming up with a solution to do some tunning to the set up. Either tune the stock ECU and have a piggyback control the supercharger clutch or use TOM's ecu and run piggyback with it
We tried run with the stock ECU thats been tunned for FBO mods and E20 gas. It runs much better with more power but we have to power the clutch directly
Talking about number
Great pickup from lowend to mid range 40-50WHP + and plenty of TQ Up until 5000-5500 rpm.
But on the topend this kit suck so bad. With TOM's ECU it makes 20whp less than my current FBO setup with custom ECU remap. Partly, from the super rich mixture about 0.7 lamda full throttle. When we get the fuel and timing control back we should get 20whp back and add another 10whp-20whp more at the very best
My tunner thinks the supercharger was sized too small for the engine displacement. It cant feed adequate air in to the engine up top and he doesn't think changing the pulley size would help
I dont know what to feel haha.
It is great to finally have some information about this kit.
It feels much better to drive. It sounds sick
but i was hoping that it would at least make better power up top
What kind of boost did you see? I'd be curious if the clutched pulley was causing more problems than it's worth. If this were my car I'd ditch the clutch system and tune my stock ecu.
What kind of boost did you see? I'd be curious if the clutched pulley was causing more problems than it's worth. If this were my car I'd ditch the clutch system and tune my stock ecu.
There is no place to tap for boost reference. I should drill a hole on the intake side and hook a gauge to it. I will report back
Thank you for continually providing feedback and sharing your knowledge and experiences. How much whp/wtq is it making right now? What’s your gas mileage like now (mpg/range)?
have you reached out to TOM’s? Maybe they could unlock the ecu or something lol. What size/model supercharger did they use? Curious how this compares to what RR Racing provides in their kit.
Thank you for continually providing feedback and sharing your knowledge and experiences. How much whp/wtq is it making right now? What’s your gas mileage like now (mpg/range)?
have you reached out to TOM’s? Maybe they could unlock the ecu or something lol. What size/model supercharger did they use? Curious how this compares to what RR Racing provides in their kit.
Currently with TOM's ECU. Its make 44 KG/m wtq and about 310whp. You can see from the dyno graph above. It pickup great before 5500 rpm. Maybe there are leaks somewhere in the system and a member suggest the clutch may have worn out and slip at high RPM.
This is a root type supercharger. So prolly cant compares with RR Racing centrifugal type. The company that makes it is called Ogura clutch and the model is TX15 i have attach the spec sheet below. It doesnt make sense to me but if someone understand what they mean please do share your thoughts. Still want to know if the supercharger was sized too small
See if you can get an rpm reading of the supercharger itself while on the dyno and compare that against the calculated rpm it should be at based on the pulley ratio and engine rpm. This will let you know if it is slipping at higher rpms.
Does it have a bypass valve or some kind of blow off to limit the Boost? That's actually is a common s/c unit I think even some BMW's used it too.
I don't think it's running Rich is what is limiting the power up top. I think it's rich to go along with full Boost but not making the full boost is the problem. Then when you put the stock ecu back on it's more closer a/f match for no boost. There is some info about Rebuild on that s/c out there if needed. That's a good thing if you needs parts for it.
As you stated, I would be looking more for something mechanical with that clutch engaging system that's not fully engaging it. I saw some info on that s/c that says if it sits a while it can get stuck to a point. It also uses some kind of clutch fluid or ATF fluid. I would check that fluid also. It may just need some fluid leveled up is all? I'm sure when you get it figured out it will be nice.
See if you can get an rpm reading of the supercharger itself while on the dyno and compare that against the calculated rpm it should be at based on the pulley ratio and engine rpm. This will let you know if it is slipping at higher rpms.
^^ This is the answer. But you need to mark and look at shaft RPM vs pulley rpm as the clutch could be slipping which you may also be able to detect with an IR Gun as it will make heat if the magnetic clutch is slipping.
Before installation were you able to see the lobes and view any scoring, wear, contact, or abrasion? These could indicate internal leakage. Secondly, the health of that diverter valve would be worth looking at to. In bypass mode it bypasses the SC. But is it really sealing under boost? And how is it controlled? Can you physically see a lever or motor driver change state?
This would involve taking the belt off, but using string or fine wire, wrap it around each pulley and mark where it overlaps for each pulley. The number doesn't have to be exact as you're only looking for a ratio.
Did you happen to notice intake temps at the MAF under boost?
Does it have a bypass valve or some kind of blow off to limit the Boost? That's actually is a common s/c unit I think even some BMW's used it too.
I don't think it's running Rich is what is limiting the power up top. I think it's rich to go along with full Boost but not making the full boost is the problem. Then when you put the stock ecu back on it's more closer a/f match for no boost. There is some info about Rebuild on that s/c out there if needed. That's a good thing if you needs parts for it.
As you stated, I would be looking more for something mechanical with that clutch engaging system that's not fully engaging it. I saw some info on that s/c that says if it sits a while it can get stuck to a point. It also uses some kind of clutch fluid or ATF fluid. I would check that fluid also. It may just need some fluid leveled up is all? I'm sure when you get it figured out it will be nice.
The internal lobes maintain spacing via a gear set. That gear set is where the oil is used and to cool and lube the bearings.
.The magnetic clutch is just that, an electromagnet used in a binary off/on state. I'm not sure what the torque hold capacity is but the basic A/C compressor on my Tundra seized and took a V8 at 1800 RPM to off smoking the *****s from the belt before the electronics took over and disengaged the clutch. They can hold on!
I wonder how much TQ this compressor requires at max boost?
The internal lobes maintain spacing via a gear set. That gear set is where the oil is used and to cool and lube the bearings.
.The magnetic clutch is just that, an electromagnet used in a binary off/on state. I'm not sure what the torque hold capacity is but the basic A/C compressor on my Tundra seized and took a V8 at 1800 RPM to off smoking the *****s from the belt before the electronics took over and disengaged the clutch. They can hold on!
I wonder how much TQ this compressor requires at max boost?
Thanks, I thought I read something say it activated like a wet clutch hydraulically? See I am wrong. lol! Getting some age on me.
Also thought I saw something saying that Clutch was the same as a some a/c compressor also. I hope he gets that thing Boosting to redline rpm!
FYI I see one of those s/c unit rebuilt on Amazon for like only $338 with the 15% Coupon.
^^ This is the answer. But you need to mark and look at shaft RPM vs pulley rpm as the clutch could be slipping which you may also be able to detect with an IR Gun as it will make heat if the magnetic clutch is slipping.
Before installation were you able to see the lobes and view any scoring, wear, contact, or abrasion? These could indicate internal leakage. Secondly, the health of that diverter valve would be worth looking at to. In bypass mode it bypasses the SC. But is it really sealing under boost? And how is it controlled? Can you physically see a lever or motor driver change state?
This would involve taking the belt off, but using string or fine wire, wrap it around each pulley and mark where it overlaps for each pulley. The number doesn't have to be exact as you're only looking for a ratio.
Did you happen to notice intake temps at the MAF under boost?
the supercharger internals looks great no scoring. Will check for leaks for the whole system anyway. I have some idea for the clutch. I read that some guy up the voltage to 24V to help the clutch hold better i will be looking in to that as well.
I tried check for leaks today and it doesnt seem to be any. It got dark quickly i will try to do it again tomorrow to confirm
If zero leaks found will move on to the clutch. Can I really run 24V on 12V clutch? Or do it just to prove a point? If there are no slip at 24V then replace the clutch haha
I tried check for leaks today and it doesnt seem to be any. It got dark quickly i will try to do it again tomorrow to confirm
If zero leaks found will move on to the clutch. Can I really run 24V on 12V clutch? Or do it just to prove a point? If there are no slip at 24V then replace the clutch haha
If you double the voltage you double the wattage and stand a fair chance of melting the coil (magnet). In addition the extra heat could warp materials and heat contact surfaces making slippage more likely.
I'm still thinking you need to understand when and why the valve diverting flow operates. If it doesn't fully seal, although there is no external leak, it simply recirculates the air.
Find it, monitor it, inspect it. If it's not working or not working correctly it could easily be the source of the problem and why you have this so cheap.
12-03-23, 07:32 AM
