Lately, when I start my car, I hear a fuzzy noise, some crackling, emanating from perhaps rear right speakers. Eventually, the sound seems to go away. From running some searches on ML amp issues, seems like it could be one or more electrolytic caps. The thread I found was for an LS in particular.
Are there some guides or stickies for repairing this for the IS? Some repair services perhaps? Or, some folks that sell the amps remanufactured? I must have not been searching correctly for replacement ML amps on Ebay but I could only find ones that were for pre-2010 for fitment.

Thanks in advance.

 

Two things, the 2IS is known to let moisture in the trunk through a failed vent louver.
Pull the rightside plastic bin and inspect for moisture damage. Why they placed the AMP at the bottom of the pit is beyond most of us. Free space I guess....

Next up, do a general search for failed electrolytic caps. They bulge and leak at the base. If you see either, replace them. Most repairs of this nature are pretty basic.

Ping us if help is needed. I have a solid background in troubleshooting. The downside is no schematics.

 

I pulled up the bin cover and didn't immediately see moisture damage. I was looking at how to remove the amp so I can open it up and look for bulging electrolytic caps. I can pull up the edge of the trunk lining material at the opening of where the amps a bit, to get access to the bolts towards the rear end of the car. I am not sure how to get to the bolts towards the front of the car. Maybe have to pull the whole trunk liner? I'm afraid to start tugging linear to see if I can find fastening points. Thanks.

 

Hmmm... idr anyone having trouble getting that out. I doubt the F is different? Maybe search here or yt might have a video?

Ya, once out, some see a water line but I'm guessing it's something else. Is it getting worse?

 

Yeah, I feel a little lame since I am not sure where the liner can be unfastened. It seems like a single piece that conforms around the wheel well and on sides of trunk. Picture shows material obscures access to the bolts especially towards front of the car. It's been getting worse only in the sense it takes a bit longer to clear up. About 10 seconds after starting the car after sitting overnight. So, not a huge deal...for now.

 

Update: Had the amplifier rebuilt and stressed tested. Same issue. Changed out speaker of affected channel. Same issue. So now it's a choice between changing out the radio or the nav system portion. Local Lexus dealership and company I sent the amplifier to said that could be either one of those. Anybody have an idea on which one it could be? I'm trying to keep the car completely stock to maintain value as I think I may sell it as I would like a change. Great car for sure.

 

Look at this post, with a couple button pushes you place the hesd unit in diagnostic mode. Maybe it can tell you what part is suspect?
Oddly, another IS-F. Should be post #4.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post11713164

>Snip>
Anyone wanting more info about their audio, Nav, Amp, or anything else in the center;

1) Engine on, vehicle stopped, turn the light switch to OFF.
2) Press and hold the Info button and turn the light switch on then off 3 times.
The touch screen will go into a new mode offering options for equipment versions, hardware versions and diagnostic features. You will also find settings for mic input and bluetooth volumes. Could be helpful if someone can't hear you.

 

Thank you so much for this! I ran through it and found no codes. But it was worth the try!!!

 

It doesn't list codes per say, but allows sub-components to do health checks, were able to find a screen where it tested 4 or 5 components? This is a 2013 non-ML, yours may differ.

 

My screen is similar to above though different colors and such. More same than not. I didn't mention that I had a USB "chk" and when I held down on "chk", I was brought to a screen that listed a B15DF code which I could clear. A Google search suggested that this DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) indicates a communication error with a USB device. My Iphone sometimes cause the infotainment system to display an error if I connect via USB. I didn't mention earlier because I didn't think it was substantive. The other systems are all "ok". The diagnostics unfortunately do not detect my issue.

 

Now the situation has worsened to distorted sound in that one speaker always.

Some questions:
1. I've thought about just unplugging the speaker. From your perspectives, if I were to put this car on the market, how much do you think that would affect sales especially to an enthusiast?
2. One reason for unplugging option is that I'm nervous about getting the radio and nav units out. When I've seen some YT videos, the dash looks a little chewed up from the process. The gaps are pretty tight and even my local Lexus dealership warns that since the car is older the dash could tear and the chances of no damage to the dash are low. If I knew it was the radio for sure, the only part of the two that Lexus could replace, then it may be worth the $1600. But there's risk of damage and risk of not fixing the problem. If I can get the nav unit out, I could send for diagnosis and repair to the same place that I sent the amp to.

Thoughts? Thanks!

 

I'm pretty sure thats going to be heavy loss the moment people start looking at replacement cost. The one exception is that owner who knows they want the whole thing upgraded as the NAV is antiquated by modern standards.
Are all F's ML? If no, another reason to fix ML if yes, throw it out there and see who bites. Expect them to low ball.

Watch the videos for the best tools for the job and go for it. Im glad you think you know someone capable of repairing it.

GL

 

I haven't had a chance to dig into the dash. Before I do, does anybody happen to know if I can bypass the nav module? That way I hopefully determine if the nav or the deck is the source of the issue. Maybe if not direct bypass, maybe there is a cable I can buy to do so? Thanks.