How to: change your oil
04-19-11, 01:20 PM
#91
This came highly recommended when I was looking into oil change goodies for my IS350. I haven't used it yet, but it gets rave reviews on Amazon, some Toyota sites, etc. IIRC, this is what the dealerships' service techs use for all the 3.5L Toyota engines.
Here's the same tool sold by a different Amazon vendor (for a little bit more $ with shipping), with a total of 31 four and five star reviews... Specifically lists all models of 2006 and up IS250/IS350:
http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-AS...=pd_sim_auto_7
Here's the same tool sold by a different Amazon vendor (for a little bit more $ with shipping), with a total of 31 four and five star reviews... Specifically lists all models of 2006 and up IS250/IS350:
http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-AS...=pd_sim_auto_7
Last edited by Leander311; 04-20-11 at 06:36 PM.
04-19-11, 01:57 PM
#92
I was told by a friend that works at a shop that they recommend takign off the entire bottom panel (goign across the width of the car) when doing changes on the IS.
The few times where they were lazy and just opened up the access panel to the filter/drain and draining it that way is usually quite messy as the oil flows out in all directions and usually collects on the panel and you will have a heck of a mess to clean up as it drips out from the sides.
The few times where they were lazy and just opened up the access panel to the filter/drain and draining it that way is usually quite messy as the oil flows out in all directions and usually collects on the panel and you will have a heck of a mess to clean up as it drips out from the sides.
04-19-11, 02:15 PM
#93
I was told by a friend that works at a shop that they recommend takign off the entire bottom panel (goign across the width of the car) when doing changes on the IS.
The few times where they were lazy and just opened up the access panel to the filter/drain and draining it that way is usually quite messy as the oil flows out in all directions and usually collects on the panel and you will have a heck of a mess to clean up as it drips out from the sides.
The few times where they were lazy and just opened up the access panel to the filter/drain and draining it that way is usually quite messy as the oil flows out in all directions and usually collects on the panel and you will have a heck of a mess to clean up as it drips out from the sides.
04-19-11, 02:24 PM
#94
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
They are idiots. The cap has a notch in it for draining purposes(on a 350 at least). It even shows you on the OEM filter box. This way you don't have to remove all of the covers. Only the filter access cover. Once you turn the cap to a certain point, the oil drains nice and smooth. The OEM filter for a 250 comes with a filter drain tube.
04-19-11, 07:04 PM
#95
sweet, thanks,i haven't had a need to do a change yet so the tip will definitely come in handy when i have to do a change.
01-07-12, 02:53 PM
#100
Did mine today and she is purring like a kitten.
I did get the cheaper filter wrench(19 bucks) from Swell parts and the fit was terrible. I had to whack it on there with the socket wrench to get any kind grab.
I may try and find another alternative before the next oil change.
I did get the cheaper filter wrench(19 bucks) from Swell parts and the fit was terrible. I had to whack it on there with the socket wrench to get any kind grab.
I may try and find another alternative before the next oil change.
01-08-12, 08:04 AM
#101
Advanced
Thanks for the write up. Can you add pictures to it? I have no clue of
what you are talking about. Thanks.
Here is a little write up with pictures on changing your oil.
It can be tough to fit underneath, so ramps may be required. This time I just jacked up my drivers a bit so it was easier to see under.
Remove this panel under the car to gain access to the oil filter housing, it requires a 10mm socket or a philips head screwdriver, 3 bolts/screws in all.
.JPG)
.JPG)
Beyond that panel towards the back of the car is the oil pan, it is exposed so you do not need to remove anything. Get something to catch the oil and place it under the bolt (be sure your container can hold alot, around 6 quarts will be coming out!) It requires a 14mm socket to remove the plug.
.JPG)
It can be tough to fit underneath, so ramps may be required. This time I just jacked up my drivers a bit so it was easier to see under.
Remove this panel under the car to gain access to the oil filter housing, it requires a 10mm socket or a philips head screwdriver, 3 bolts/screws in all.
Beyond that panel towards the back of the car is the oil pan, it is exposed so you do not need to remove anything. Get something to catch the oil and place it under the bolt (be sure your container can hold alot, around 6 quarts will be coming out!) It requires a 14mm socket to remove the plug.
02-03-12, 09:54 PM
#103
Pole Position
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Which oil is the best for is350? I just bought the car from LEXUS CPO and I know Lexus uses only regular oil for this cars but I want synthetic oil but don't know what should I get. By the way I live in NY and I know it depends on climate too.
02-03-12, 09:58 PM
#104
If you plan to change every 5k use anything you want, that's too often even for conventional oil despite what the owners manual says so using synthetic here won't do much but cost you money.
If you plan to change every 10k pretty much any synthetic will be more than fine, even Mobil 1 from Walmart.
If you plan to change once a year in the 20-25k range then I'd recommend Amsoil, but you'll still want to change your filter halfway through that time though... (TRD supposedly offers a synthetic media filter for another vehicle that works on the 2IS which might be ok longer than 10-12k miles, but I wouldn't trust the standard filter longer than that)
