LMS vs. Fujita 5 Intakes
#16
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Originally Posted by caymandive
Car break in or not, the car is now making more power than my baseline with the JOEZ intake pipe. Also if breakin was an issue then my LMS intake should have yielded better gains over my baseline as it was dyno'd a few thousand miles after my baseline. I'm very confident in the JOEZ pipe for many reasons and not too confident in anything that draws in warm engine bay air and uses an oil filter such as K&N, which has already been shown to have negative affects on the MAF sensor.
#18
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Originally Posted by 4TehNguyen
the stock intake is more of a cold air intake than the LMS Fujita intakes are (taking engine bay air), which is what you want for the most gain.
JoeZ and a K&N drop in filter would be close to what a true cold air intake would be, without the hacking of metal like you have to do to install some CAIs
JoeZ and a K&N drop in filter would be close to what a true cold air intake would be, without the hacking of metal like you have to do to install some CAIs
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Originally Posted by Tmirk
Engine Efficiency vs. Cost Efficiency..... The engineers greatest battle!
#22
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Originally Posted by mwaull
Sounds to my like the Joe Z is the way to go . . . proven.
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#24
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You have to take the manufacturer's dyno plots with a grain of salt. Not saying that Fujita's plot is embellished but it's hard to believe that a different intake tube will yield 20 bhp.
With that said, independent dyno's have more weight with me as long as the parts being compared to each other or stock are dyno'd on the same day and conditions. There are too many variables even with sae correction (temp, humidity, dyno operator, dyno condition, continuing break-in or break down of the engine as the case may be, and even the gas you get from different stations) otherwise.
With that said, independent dyno's have more weight with me as long as the parts being compared to each other or stock are dyno'd on the same day and conditions. There are too many variables even with sae correction (temp, humidity, dyno operator, dyno condition, continuing break-in or break down of the engine as the case may be, and even the gas you get from different stations) otherwise.
Last edited by al503; 05-19-06 at 11:15 AM.
#25
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Originally Posted by al503
You have to take the manufacturer's dyno plots with a grain of salt. Not saying that Fujita's plot is embellished but it's hard to believe that a different intake tube will yield 20 bhp.
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#26
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So then my question t all of you, so I can better understand, I should or should not put my stock intake back on? I have a fujita, and I like the growl, but I don't want to be losing power, and I don't want to take my car just to get dyno'd. Please help
#27
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Originally Posted by Dj Rando
So then my question t all of you, so I can better understand, I should or should not put my stock intake back on? I have a fujita, and I like the growl, but I don't want to be losing power, and I don't want to take my car just to get dyno'd. Please help
1. even with heat shields, they draw in hot air from the engine bay. Every 10-11 degree increase in temp works out to about 1 psi. This is why some will notice that their cars feel stronger in the winter. You get denser air at lower temps = more oxygen in the combustion chamber.
2. improper maintenance/oiling of the filter element can lead to problems with the MAF, which isn't cheap.
3. heat soak. With a metal pipe, you get a lot more heat soak v. a plastic/rubber one. It's not a big issue once you get started and get the outside air to cool the pipe down but if you're at a stoplight or staging area, it will take more than a few seconds for the pipe to cool back down and you know where all of that heat is going, right?
I think the best intake would utilize the stock air box or a slightly modified one with a plastic tube that is internally smooth for less turbulence.
#28
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Just wanted to restate my original question in this thread
....not that I mind the current discussion -- very good info.
Does anyne know what the flange (opening) diameter is for the filter on the LMS intake? I've already determined that the Fujita is a 3.5 inch (it flares out just before the filter) but is the LMS the same?
The reason that I'm asking is because I already have a K&N cone filter with a 3 inch opeing that I would like to use in place of the ones that come with the kits. I realize that the filters are pobably identical (quality wise), but somehow I just feel more comfortable / better knowing that is says K&N
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Does anyne know what the flange (opening) diameter is for the filter on the LMS intake? I've already determined that the Fujita is a 3.5 inch (it flares out just before the filter) but is the LMS the same?
The reason that I'm asking is because I already have a K&N cone filter with a 3 inch opeing that I would like to use in place of the ones that come with the kits. I realize that the filters are pobably identical (quality wise), but somehow I just feel more comfortable / better knowing that is says K&N
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Last edited by kramo; 05-19-06 at 02:46 PM.
#29
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Honestly someone should take all the of the intakes out there....
And dyno them all that day..... There are too many variables to say which one is better....
I have the LMS intake and I love the noise in the high end.... Personally the car is way too quiet
and it actually makes the car seam fast.....Definitely not as fast as my viper though.....hehehe
I would love to dyno them all if someone wants to meet up with the other goods....
I am in the Tampa, FL area.....
Joe
And dyno them all that day..... There are too many variables to say which one is better....
I have the LMS intake and I love the noise in the high end.... Personally the car is way too quiet
and it actually makes the car seam fast.....Definitely not as fast as my viper though.....hehehe
I would love to dyno them all if someone wants to meet up with the other goods....
I am in the Tampa, FL area.....
Joe
#30
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Originally Posted by Dj Rando
I don't want to be losing power, and I don't want to take my car just to get dyno'd. Please help