where can i find some sway / strut bars for the is350 ???
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all sway bars do is reduce body roll. If you want to reduce under/oversteering, you have to analyze the weight of each tire as it turns. sway bars have no affect on the tire.
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I actually just got a call from Tanabe Racing Development to use my car to make some measurements for strut bars. Unfortunately I was unable to meet up with them, but Im sure they got someone else to help them out. This of course leads me to believe that strut bars are being developed and will be available in due time.
#20
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Originally Posted by jt4you
all sway bars do is reduce body roll. If you want to reduce under/oversteering, you have to analyze the weight of each tire as it turns. sway bars have no affect on the tire.
#21
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changing out suspension parts shouldn't be taken lightly. A proper suspension system is made up from a collection of parts designed to work in harmony.
Lexus designed this to to be a performance car so they have already compromised comfort for handling.
The question what else can be changed to improve street performance.
The street is MUCH different than a race track. A street is very bumpy, where most trracks are smooth. A very stiff suspension will handle lkke a dream on the track, but downright dangerous on the street.
Alignment can be optimised for street or track. Aggressive camber will trash the tires on the street, too little camber and the tires will be trashed on the track.
A strut brace will only stiffin the chasis. If the chasis is flexible that will adversely effect handling. If the chasis is already stiff enough, then a strut bar will do nothing but add weight.
Ther are two schools of thought on springs vs sway bars. 1) stiff spring with light sway bar, 2) light spring with stiff sway bars.
I don't know all the arguements for soft springs, but this is how stiff sway bars can really screw up handling:
If for instance you put a big thick sway bar in the rear, what will happen is when you make a fast turn the inside wheel will lift off the ground. Not completely, but it's contact patch gets very small.
Two bad things happen when that inside wheel lifts off the ground
- you now only have one tire firmly planted on the pavement, so your latteral stability is reduced.
-If you don't have traction control, this is where it gets VERY dangerous- the inside wheel will start to spin, and with posi-traction, it will also cause the outside wheel to spin! Before you know it you will be into the gaurd rail.
I don't know much about drift cars, but I suspect they have enormous sway bars.
In a nut shell, thick sway bars reduce the benefit of independant suspension.
But it comes down to proper design and carful balance.
You have to ask yourself who put more r&d into IS handling: Lexus or Eibach?
~Jay
Lexus designed this to to be a performance car so they have already compromised comfort for handling.
The question what else can be changed to improve street performance.
The street is MUCH different than a race track. A street is very bumpy, where most trracks are smooth. A very stiff suspension will handle lkke a dream on the track, but downright dangerous on the street.
Alignment can be optimised for street or track. Aggressive camber will trash the tires on the street, too little camber and the tires will be trashed on the track.
A strut brace will only stiffin the chasis. If the chasis is flexible that will adversely effect handling. If the chasis is already stiff enough, then a strut bar will do nothing but add weight.
Ther are two schools of thought on springs vs sway bars. 1) stiff spring with light sway bar, 2) light spring with stiff sway bars.
I don't know all the arguements for soft springs, but this is how stiff sway bars can really screw up handling:
If for instance you put a big thick sway bar in the rear, what will happen is when you make a fast turn the inside wheel will lift off the ground. Not completely, but it's contact patch gets very small.
Two bad things happen when that inside wheel lifts off the ground
- you now only have one tire firmly planted on the pavement, so your latteral stability is reduced.
-If you don't have traction control, this is where it gets VERY dangerous- the inside wheel will start to spin, and with posi-traction, it will also cause the outside wheel to spin! Before you know it you will be into the gaurd rail.
I don't know much about drift cars, but I suspect they have enormous sway bars.
In a nut shell, thick sway bars reduce the benefit of independant suspension.
But it comes down to proper design and carful balance.
You have to ask yourself who put more r&d into IS handling: Lexus or Eibach?
~Jay
#22
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well i know very little about strut/sway bars. all i know is that it can/should improve handling and such. i was looking into getting some kind of bars when they were available but after reading all these post, i wonder whether it will just be a waste of money for me. i'm always up for improving the car, but how much of an improvement will it be and will it be worth the $$$? i'm more of a daily driver, with the occasional joyride, but have not hit the track yet. i do plan on going in the future, maybe after i get an exhaust + other things.
so all in all, my question is, is it really worth it for strut/sway bars?
so all in all, my question is, is it really worth it for strut/sway bars?
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i'm pretty much lookin to reduce the body roll of the car. it handles good enough. i just wanna make it a bit better with strut bars and sway bars. so far i havent been able to find much for the car. hopefully someone has a lead for me.....hehe
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Tower bars will not affect body roll. It would be impossible to put strut bars on the IS because it doesn't have struts. The biggest reason for strut bars is to maintain camber under load. This site gives a pretty good explanation of why a STB is a good thing for a car with struts. However, the IS has double wishbone suspension, not struts, so the advantage of stiffening the chassis this way is far less than a strut-type. It might be just extra weight. It certainly is on a Supra like mine with a hard top.
Stiffer springs will reduce body roll. So will stiffer anti-roll (sway) bars. For the street, you'll probably be better off with stiffer sway bars. Stiffer springs and their necessarily stiffer dampers will compromise ride quality, and if done to the extreme, you will have some heart stopping moments with braking over washboard surfaces because your wheel compliance is poor and the ABS is fighting your desire to stop with the wheels locking and unlocking rapidly.
It seems to be an even bigger problem with EBFD found on all the late model Toyotas. I can say I've had some scares in my tC (with Tein SS-Ps and twice the spring rate of the OEM springs) while trying to stop on poor surfaces. At the same time, the suspension changes completely transformed the car's performance on good surfaces.
BTW, I have a LOT of experience running negative camber on street driven cars in the -1.5 to -2.5 range, and I've never had wear problems. Inside edge wear is from incorrect toe, not excessive camber unless you are running more than -3.0 degrees, which would be a completely foolish setting for street driving. If the IS really does have 3mm toe-in at the rear, expect to see inside edge wear in a hurry. But alignment is another thread somewhere waiting to happen.
Stiffer springs will reduce body roll. So will stiffer anti-roll (sway) bars. For the street, you'll probably be better off with stiffer sway bars. Stiffer springs and their necessarily stiffer dampers will compromise ride quality, and if done to the extreme, you will have some heart stopping moments with braking over washboard surfaces because your wheel compliance is poor and the ABS is fighting your desire to stop with the wheels locking and unlocking rapidly.
It seems to be an even bigger problem with EBFD found on all the late model Toyotas. I can say I've had some scares in my tC (with Tein SS-Ps and twice the spring rate of the OEM springs) while trying to stop on poor surfaces. At the same time, the suspension changes completely transformed the car's performance on good surfaces.
BTW, I have a LOT of experience running negative camber on street driven cars in the -1.5 to -2.5 range, and I've never had wear problems. Inside edge wear is from incorrect toe, not excessive camber unless you are running more than -3.0 degrees, which would be a completely foolish setting for street driving. If the IS really does have 3mm toe-in at the rear, expect to see inside edge wear in a hurry. But alignment is another thread somewhere waiting to happen.
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Originally Posted by linnboi
i'm pretty much lookin to reduce the body roll of the car. it handles good enough. i just wanna make it a bit better with strut bars and sway bars. so far i havent been able to find much for the car. hopefully someone has a lead for me.....hehe
If its the street, then these guys have it right:
Originally Posted by Jay M
The question what else can be changed to improve street performance. [...] A strut brace will only stiffin the chasis. If the chasis is flexible that will adversely effect handling. If the chasis is already stiff enough, then a strut bar will do nothing but add weight.
and,
Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Tower bars will not affect body roll. [...] However, the IS has double wishbone suspension, not struts, so the advantage of stiffening the chassis this way is far less than a strut-type. It might be just extra weight. It certainly is on a Supra like mine with a hard top.
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linnboi,
BTW, while body roll may seem bad, it doesn't always translate into handling, or lack thereof. If you want to reduce roll, then aim for your springs and shocks with a nicer damper level to keep driving on city streets more bearable. You'll sacrifice the 'feel' of a lexus, but if you bought the car for performance over luxury, so be it eh?
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#26
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Y'all have to remember that going to stiffer anti-roll bars may help keep the car flatter, which may in turn give you more confidence. However, going too stiff may actually hurt the overall grip levels as you're decreasing the wheels and tires ability to act/react independently.
I use anti roll bars strictly for fine-tuning under/oversteer only usually using the softest of the stiffer settings (if they're adjustable). Roll control should be adjusted with springs as mentioned by several above.
I use anti roll bars strictly for fine-tuning under/oversteer only usually using the softest of the stiffer settings (if they're adjustable). Roll control should be adjusted with springs as mentioned by several above.
#27
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Originally Posted by Jay M
Lexus designed this to to be a performance car so they have already compromised comfort for handling.
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Originally Posted by al503
Y'all have to remember that going to stiffer anti-roll bars may help keep the car flatter, which may in turn give you more confidence. However, going too stiff may actually hurt the overall grip levels as you're decreasing the wheels and tires ability to act/react independently.
I use anti roll bars strictly for fine-tuning under/oversteer only usually using the softest of the stiffer settings (if they're adjustable). Roll control should be adjusted with springs as mentioned by several above.
I use anti roll bars strictly for fine-tuning under/oversteer only usually using the softest of the stiffer settings (if they're adjustable). Roll control should be adjusted with springs as mentioned by several above.
All the ricky racers here would like the car to ride and handle like a Porsche or Ferrari. All the Grand Touring drivers would like it to feel like a BMW or Mercedes. All the Cadillac drivers would like the factory to make the ride absolutely plush. There's absolutely NO way to make all these groups happy, so the engineers pick a target market and aim to please that market. Out of this we got the IS350, a sporty sedan.
I like it just fine. It's better than the wife's '97 Camry, and it's better than either of my other cars for my intended purpose (taking clients to lunch/dinner) while not floating down the road with a completely disconnected feeling. But it is far from my weapon of choice for corner strafing.
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Originally Posted by jt4you
all sway bars do is reduce body roll. If you want to reduce under/oversteering, you have to analyze the weight of each tire as it turns. sway bars have no affect on the tire.
For example, if you put a larger sway bar on the front and a smaller sway bar on the rear, the lateral and vertical loads will be much more evenly distributed on the rear tires and much less evenly distributed on the front. In extreme cases, the inside front wheel may actually lift up off the ground. This will cause dramatic understeer. The opposite is also true, so a large rear bar and small front bar can cause the inside back wheel to lift off the ground causing significant oversteer.