kilo6_one

iTrader: (2)

To answer your question about the valvestem issue. the only reason why i used the TPMS sensor/ stem was since it is attached to the rim with a sleeve and washer i assumed it was a tight seal, which i was correct it was. Im concerned about using a generic valvestem because it may not create a tight seal, again im going to tinker with the overall design this weekend and will have a comprehensive write up and some pics hopefully as well. Im sure you can go to pepboys or what not to get a generic stem, but the OEM one works just as good, but if you wanted to buy one they should not cost more then about 5.00 for a set of two.
as for blowing myself up, i thought i had waited long enough for the PVC adhesive to dry, but i guess not. When i went to fill the canister to 40 PSi it shot the other cap off accross the street and barley missed my neighbors car. So the presure is nothing to fool around with, in fact i end up waiting 12 hours before filling it again. Worked fine. I just would be concerned about it shooting off and hitting your car, or someone. Im sure it would hurt.

im going to make a few different versions this weekend, again ill post up more infomation later.

Another idea for concealing the canister was to buy some stereo box carpet and upolstering the canister, but it may look corny. I think using a texutred Krylon made for plastic will work just fine.
again, ill post more this saturday.

Flipsonic

kilo6, did you seal around the valvestem to make sure it is leak proof? Or was the sleeve and washer enough to make it leak proof?

kilo6_one

iTrader: (2)

sleeve and washer is enough, however the hole has to be really precise, you almost end up screwing in the OEM sensor, i think that is why i have such a tight seal. I did not need anything to seal it, also i check the PSI earlier; it is the same as what i noted a week ago, 37.5 PSi.

if the hole is bigger then the valve and you just insert it into the hole it may be too loose and you will have to seal it.....
i took a micrometer to measure the base and drilled the hole just slightly smaller then the base, also if you look at your sensor it has a rubber o-ring on the base of the assembly.

NINEZeRO

Awesome, will be waiting for updates

kilo6_one

iTrader: (2)

update:
i finally figured out the perfect size, as you remember my original canister was huge, i was able to get the size down to 13x3 and it takes 40PSi perfect.

so i ended up getting at orchard supply in the irrigation department:

x2 3" PVC caps 4.00 ea
x1 12x3" PVC pipe 1.56 ea
3/8 drill bit
PVC adhesive

that is it!

step 1
adhere with the adhesive cap to one end of pipe with PVC adhesive
step 2
drill 3/8 hole in second cap you may need to dremel out the hole, but the tpms valve stem should screw right in making an airtight seal.
then replace the the washer and sleeve on the valvestem
step3
remove the inner valve of the stem, you may need the tool from kragen (4.00)
the reason is if you do not remove the inner valve it will not push down 100% on the pipe.
step4
using 3m double sided tape tape the sensors to the inside of the pipe; then insert them into the pipe.
step5
seal the other cap on the pipe.....using adhesive

let dry overnight, then if you want run a bead of TAP silicone around the base of the cap to assure a airtight seal.
reinstall the inner valve and slowly fill with air to 36-40Psi

you can obviously paint this, or linex it or whatever you want, however it is small enough to concell in the spare tire area....

good luck.

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

I believe typical household waterpressure is considerably higher that the MAX tire pressure for our OEM tires can be (55 PSI), so I wouldn't consider filling the PVC container to anything less than that. The higher you fill it, the longer it will take for it to leak through the valve stem (which it will VERY slowly).

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

Definitely follow the instruction on the PVC glue regarding curing time before filling it, and adding any supplemental glue to the PVC fittings is useless. PVC glue actually melts the pvc together, which is MUCH MUCH stronger than silicone. Slicone on top of PVC glue is like putting a piece of tape on top of a weld.

NINEZeRO

1) Did you buy all the material from Home Depot (Is orchard supply - irrigation department in Home Depot)?

2) I'm sorry but what is a washer and sleeve for the valve stem?

3) Do they sell this Kragen tool at Home Depot? Can you give a little more info on this tool?

4) What is the inner valve of the stem?

Thanks!

kilo6_one

iTrader: (2)

1) homedepot only sells the piping in 72" or longer, OSH has them in shorter lengths
2) its the outer part of the valvestem, it unscrews
3) you can get the tool that removes the inner valve at kragen, its in the tire repair isle
4) the inner valve of the stem actually comes out, but you need the tool to accomplish this.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Valve core remover. Only $0.99. Easy to find LOTS of places.

NINEZeRO

Does anyone from the east coast know any shop that would sell the smaller PVC pipes? There are no OSH stores outside of california.

Flipsonic

Keep in mind, the pvc must accommodate the size of the sensors. I tried slipping a sensor in a 2'' (diameter) pipe while at Home Depot...nope, doesn't fit. However, it does fit in a 2.5" pipe if you insert the sensors on an angle. So anything 2.5" or larger should do.

FYI, my local Home Depot sells pvc in 24" lengths.

NINEZeRO

Do you know if it's okay to cut the PVC pipe with a hack saw and file it?

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

You can cut the PVC pipe with anything as long as it will fit into the fittings. Honestly, I don't see why anyone would worry about fastening the sensors inside the pipe, since you wouldn't hear rattles through the PVC, especially if the "pipe bomb" was under the spare tire.

Flipsonic

I put the sensors in my pipe bomb (pvc) and could hear them when I was rolling it back and forth. I used a double sided tape and...nothing. You're right though, as long as they're in the trunk, you will not be able to hear them.