VSC Defeat Module
#16
I recall seeing in this forum...TWO different ways (different pedal series) of defeating the traction control. One way gives you a message on the info screen and the other way does not. Did anyone ever figure out what the difference of these two ways is.....and which series does this device do?
#19
Originally Posted by uschardcor
only way to defeat vdim is the peddal dance, not 'other' way
Actually there IS 'other' way. There are TWO pedal dances in which the sequence is slightly different. One gives you a message on the dash info display, the other does not. I will look up the thread that talks about it....
#20
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Originally Posted by MeTrO
Actually there IS 'other' way. There are TWO pedal dances in which the sequence is slightly different. One gives you a message on the dash info display, the other does not. I will look up the thread that talks about it....
#23
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Originally Posted by HaveBlue
Thanks guys (and gals?) It gets tapped into a few wires under the dash. For several reasons I would have liked to get the matching automotive connectors instead of using wire taps. The taps are minimally destructive in that they simply pierce the insulation on the wire to make a connection. Therefore they can be removed if need be.
Tonyxcom is basically right about the function of it. After several hours of debugging under the dash and many hours of laying out the schematic, I think it will finally work. The test unit on the breadboard worked in the car and the PCB version works on the bench, I just haven't had a chance to put it back in the car.
Using the existing TracOff button is possible. It has two leads for illumination and two for the switch action. Without a matching connector the only choice is to cut wires to abandon the existing switch leads and connect in my VSC defeat ones. I'm waffling on doing that. It will look cleaner but involve soldering to reconnect it back to stock.
Has anyone tried going to the Dealer and asking them to reprogram the TRACOFF for all speeds? Maybe it's possible. I only have 1800 miles on the ticker HAHA so I haven't been back to the Dealer.
Bichon, I don't think it will be a big money maker. I have a pretty good job and it's more of a labor of love but I don't want to be a slave to it either. At this point I'm considering many options. The design first has to be completely proven. I used to build specialty offroad parts and sell them in small quantities as a hobby and I don't want to put something out there that won't work. Posting up the parts list is in the list of options too. With the exception of the large chip, the components are available at Radio Shack. The nasty part is the backside of the PCB. It has a lot of connections. I worry that the average joe will not succeed in putting one together properly. Though there is little chance of doing electrical damage to the vehicle, that possibility is there too.
In any case we all will have an option to turn off the VSC easier. With luck the '07's won't have this issue.
Tonyxcom is basically right about the function of it. After several hours of debugging under the dash and many hours of laying out the schematic, I think it will finally work. The test unit on the breadboard worked in the car and the PCB version works on the bench, I just haven't had a chance to put it back in the car.
Using the existing TracOff button is possible. It has two leads for illumination and two for the switch action. Without a matching connector the only choice is to cut wires to abandon the existing switch leads and connect in my VSC defeat ones. I'm waffling on doing that. It will look cleaner but involve soldering to reconnect it back to stock.
Has anyone tried going to the Dealer and asking them to reprogram the TRACOFF for all speeds? Maybe it's possible. I only have 1800 miles on the ticker HAHA so I haven't been back to the Dealer.
Bichon, I don't think it will be a big money maker. I have a pretty good job and it's more of a labor of love but I don't want to be a slave to it either. At this point I'm considering many options. The design first has to be completely proven. I used to build specialty offroad parts and sell them in small quantities as a hobby and I don't want to put something out there that won't work. Posting up the parts list is in the list of options too. With the exception of the large chip, the components are available at Radio Shack. The nasty part is the backside of the PCB. It has a lot of connections. I worry that the average joe will not succeed in putting one together properly. Though there is little chance of doing electrical damage to the vehicle, that possibility is there too.
In any case we all will have an option to turn off the VSC easier. With luck the '07's won't have this issue.
#26
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The ECU will only accept the disable for a short time after start up and after the self check. As far as I know when you shift out of park the first time you are stuck with out it. Disable only works after shutdown. I can't get around that.
Cheers that the '07 has a proper button!
I installed my unit yesterday for a test run and found a reverse bleed (probably from a capacitor) activating one of the transistors which would signal the parking lead for an instant every 30 sec. The dash would warn that the parking brake was on while driving. So I need to fully isolate that lead as well. I didn't think that was necessary but the car's ECU is really sensitive. I installed a separate switch using a spare blank from my 4Runner. My thought too is to keep the original TRAC OFF that works anytime below 35mph.
The only way I've gotten "Check VSC" is when I started unplugging the brake load or yaw sensor. It didn't like that at all...
Cheers that the '07 has a proper button!
I installed my unit yesterday for a test run and found a reverse bleed (probably from a capacitor) activating one of the transistors which would signal the parking lead for an instant every 30 sec. The dash would warn that the parking brake was on while driving. So I need to fully isolate that lead as well. I didn't think that was necessary but the car's ECU is really sensitive. I installed a separate switch using a spare blank from my 4Runner. My thought too is to keep the original TRAC OFF that works anytime below 35mph.
The only way I've gotten "Check VSC" is when I started unplugging the brake load or yaw sensor. It didn't like that at all...
#27
Are you cutting a PCB for this one? I wouldn't mind working on a layout for you, but once I generate the gerbers for you, it's up to you to manufacture them. Also, I'm a little busy, so I wouldn't get to it until the end of August. I'd assume that you'll be done by then.
-Brian
-Brian
#28
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Thanks for the offer! Doing a proper PCB would sure make things easier. The board is definately just a two sided affair. With optimal layout it would be single sided with a couple of jumpers.
I'm working to eliminate two of the isolating relays in the current design and go to some NOT gate logic on some of the chip outputs. The current design uses four relays which is really two to many.
Like you, I'm sure, I've got my regular job, family and recreation to attend to but it'll come along
I'm working to eliminate two of the isolating relays in the current design and go to some NOT gate logic on some of the chip outputs. The current design uses four relays which is really two to many.
Like you, I'm sure, I've got my regular job, family and recreation to attend to but it'll come along
#29
How about hooking two relays into the brake and parking brake switch and using a pic to trigger them in sequence? Seems like you would only need two relays, even if the design was entirely analog?
No worries on the time frame, it will take me a while to relearn Altium to design the board.
-Brian
No worries on the time frame, it will take me a while to relearn Altium to design the board.
-Brian
#30
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You're on the right track but you have to send a make signal continuously and send intermittant break signals but only while you are disabling. With a not gate I could invert the signal from the sequencer chip and have it do that. It should have been as easy as a transistor to send the make signal but I'm getting bleed back through the circuit somewhere. The easy way out is to just fully isolate the signal with a relay but I'd like to do it right. Just gotta find the time to rework it.