MeTrO

You mean BESIDES the video that was done during the Fujita dyno. Way to talk without reading the threads about this intake.

imaputz

iTrader: (2)

is there anyway to leave the airvent (that peice that connects to the stock intake box) there?

so that it can suck in cool air and just blow it at the cone filter?

rt350

Well guys, Monday is the big day for all of us IS350 owners. Guys let's just clear some stuff up so people don't get so upset. First of all, we are going to do the dyno here since we own a Dynojet. If somebody wants to go pay for some runs at an independent source, I say go do it. This is just one test with a privately owned members IS350. I don't know who will win until after testing Monday. This isn't a shootout to put the JoeZ down. This is a test for all of us to get some more knowledge about the car. I will video it and I will make sure Ramon sees everything. If the results looks good for JoeZ or Fujita and you don' t want to beileve it, there is nothing more I can do but suggest you go buy some dyno time in your local area. I personally liked my Fujita intake but now my supercharger is getting installed at LMS. Yes, LMS, another brand. BTW, looked at results from Modz and our web. Modz was almost 76 degrees with 32%-33% humidity. The other dyno you see listed on the site is 66.7 degrees, and humidity was 26%-27%. These are all factors but the gains at the rpms are so close. SAE correction on Modz 1.02, website 1.01. The conditions were much better with our inital car. Hey, how you think I feel, my car is the run on Modz and it had a lower baseline. However, different car, different conditions.
Just so everybody is happy, we will dyno with the hood open and with the hood closed so we can all see what happens to hp, if anything. We will see. Have a great weekend and let's just wait and see the results on Monday. BTW, the Fujita retains the front scoop air inlet infront.

imaputz

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info.... I wonder if the LMS did as well?

MeTrO

Couple of quick install tips....

1. Let your engine cool......guess how I learned that.

2. There are TWO different size hose clamps.....3.0 and 3.25. The larger clamp goes on the throttle body. It was only after 20 minutes of wrestling and a call to the helpful staff at Fujita that I realized this. The smaller clamp is for the intake tube.

3. Have the clamp screws pointing almost straight up (slightly forward). You can't have them flat (or horizontal) because they will interfere with the engine cover when you try to put it back on.

4. Have an 11mm socket for the fujita clamps.

5. Put the can of NOS in the refrigeratror BEFORE you start installing the intake, so it will be nice and cold when you're done.

6. Enjoy the nice deep tones at 4000+ RPM's.

Ramon

I'm not forgetting that at all. I was simply letting you know the reason behind some of the skeptisizm. I'm personally very excited about Monday's dyno session at Fujita. Ryan seems to be very willing to do what it takes to put the skeptisizm to rest, uncluding entertaining our suggestions of dynoing with the hood closed so I don't feel they will try to skew the results in anyway to their favor. Hopefully some other members can make it to the dyno session. In any case, good job on the install. Looks really good.

menech

I'll definitely looking forward to results of this dyno! Thanks to Fujita for offering to run dynos, they are really providing an excellent service to the members!

MeTrO

Man, you can really hear the difference with this intake....at about 3500k it's like another engine turns on.

Chi-town

rt350 - Thanks for the clarification on this...even though, I am still lost .

The upcoming Dyno should definately help simplify things. -/+'s in Hp and Tq will be two of the main things that I will be looking for.

No worries!

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Just to add a little something to this - check out this video. Yes, it's a Supra video, but the thing to note here is the lift on the hood. See how it bows upward as the car's speed increases? Here's another couple of things - this happens because the air coming into the engine compartment does not have sufficient area to escape as quickly as it is coming in - AND - this air is blowing through the intercooler and the radiator before it gets into the engine compartment.

At full throttle, the IS is putting about 306 hp worth of heat into the cooling system, 306 hp into the exhaust, and 306 hp to the transmission input. The air blowing through the radiator is taking that heat and putting it straight into the engine compartment where it is being "captured" and released as quickly as the car's engineers designed the engine compartment outflow. Of course this is assuming they did put some effort into this. They did NOT on the Supra, and given the IS's market, I have my doubts they put a great deal of effort into ensuring the engine compartment would flow well, especially for modified engines. Indeed they had to do something to get the Cd the car gets, but all these discussions about needing the hood open to dyno are just excuses for not doing proper testing.

The truth is, I don't care if the engine dynos 50 hp or 500 hp. What I really car about is how fast the car accelerates, and what the top speed is. With the hood down, no fans blowing on it. Because all the dyno stuff doesn't really mean anything if it doesn't directly relate to accelerating the car faster. Not to mention there are any number of tricks you can use to fool a dyno into showing better numbers. LIke popping the hood open, running the oil 1/2 quart low, using lighter tires and wheels, changing the air pressure in the tires, turning the headlights off (or on), etc, etc, That's all before putting weighting factors in place for air temp, humidity, and altitude.

So, if you really want to prove something about your mod making more power, make a timed run. You can even make it easy on yourself by finding a stretch of road with an incline to help load the car. Start at a set speed from a set starting point in the same gear for each run and time each 1000 rpm increase from wherever you choose to redline at WOT. Make your mod. Run again. If the times are shorter on average over three runs, you've done something good. If they are not (and unfortunately this is often the case), then your mod didn't do anything good, it actually may have made things worse.

There are any number of "common wisdoms" in tuning import cars. One is that the factory couldn't possibly design an efficient intake. Two is that the factory couldn't possibly design a proper grounding system. Three is that the factory couldn't possibly design an efficient exhaust. While true in some specific cases, these are NOT universal truths as the marketing staff of many aftermarket manufacturers would have you believe.

MeTrO - this is not a personal attack - it's a comment from someone who has spent a lot of money over the last 26 years or so on "bolt-on" performance items that did not perform as advertised. I've bought so many things that didn't fit right and had to be modified, or didn't deliver the published claims and actually introduced problems that could not be resolved, and I see so many people ready to jump on the bandwagon with something as weak as Dynojet dyno results. (FWIW, my Supra had a 10 hp spread in three runs on a Dynojet at Silver State Motorsports in Las Vegas with no changes at all, and oddly enough, the last run was the best - I have very little faith in the precision or accuracy of Dynojet results.)

I'd really like to see this mod make the car go faster, not spin up a fixed mass quicker. Isn't that what we all really want anyway?

biglexass

dude when did they start to make NOS bottles that small.you could like hid that in your wheel well or something...

rt350

I guess i have to say it again. We are testing on our Dyno since we own one. If one would like to do additional "scientific" testing, go right ahead. People can explain all they want how they think they should test. However, we are not going to do the tests described above. I have seen so many reputable companies use fans to somewhat simulate wind. I have never seen a vehicle driving on the road and avoid air. We are going to test using a Dynojet. Dynojet dynometers are officially licensed with Nascar. It is a great tool to measure horsepower, torque, and air fuel ratios. We are measuring WHEEL horspepower, not 306 horsepower made at the crank. There are many different dynos and different methods of testing. We are going to test one way for stock, JoeZ, and Fujita. We will test using the same method and under the same conditions. If there are any climate changes during the test, the SAE corrections will adjust and that will be seen on the dyno. Hope this helps the members. This is the only reason we are doing this, to help the members. Like I said also, I am curious as well.

LexFather

Good luck.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

And you sell intakes, right? Good luck with that testing.

MeTrO

Lobux,

First off, no offense taken to your post....the ONLY thing we are trying to figure out is....

Which intake gives you the largest increase in HP at the wheel.....that's it.

I don't know about in-flow, out flow, through flow and other related flows, I want the intake that provides the largest increase in HP.....and my uneducated guess is that it's going to be the Fujita.

I don't sell intakes, nor to I get anything from Fujita for saying this (although I would like a T-shirt! haha).

PS. Something tells me our IS's are producing a little less horsepower than the Supra in the video....just a little. But if I see any bowing, I'll definitley post it in the forum