stoptech for the is350 is now available!
#16
exclusive matchup
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by 4TehNguyen
$_$ costs a lot, dont see why this wouldnt fit a IS250 that has wheels to accomodate a BBK
Originally Posted by Gernby
It is true that I don't KNOW for sure how sufficient the stock brakes are, but I haven't read any complaints either. Have you actually experienced significant brake fade on the track with this car yet?
My comment about the master cylinder is strictly from the experiences the S2000 guys are having with Stoptech kits (and other brands). I drove an S2000 with a full Stopteck kit, and it required WAY too much pedal travel for my taste.
My comment about the master cylinder is strictly from the experiences the S2000 guys are having with Stoptech kits (and other brands). I drove an S2000 with a full Stopteck kit, and it required WAY too much pedal travel for my taste.
and my gs400 and sc430, just from long drives of like 45 to 60 mins, i see fade already.
#17
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by Gernby
It is true that I don't KNOW for sure how sufficient the stock brakes are, but I haven't read any complaints either. Have you actually experienced significant brake fade on the track with this car yet?
My comment about the master cylinder is strictly from the experiences the S2000 guys are having with Stoptech kits (and other brands). I drove an S2000 with a full Stopteck kit, and it required WAY too much pedal travel for my taste.
#18
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by rominl
no need to even talk about track. at the lexus driving event last year, 15 mins into the event, the brakes on the is350 i drove started to fade already. not too impressed
and my gs400 and sc430, just from long drives of like 45 to 60 mins, i see fade already.
and my gs400 and sc430, just from long drives of like 45 to 60 mins, i see fade already.
#19
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Not only that, but if you fit some ducting to blow into the hat center, you can dramatically improve fade resistance, even under the conditions you describe above. The guys who track their Supras do this and run stock brakes with Hawk, Carbotech, or Porterfield track pads with good results. Supras are pretty close to the IS weight (mine weighs 3415 lbs with a 1/4 tank of fuel.)
#21
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by Gernby
Wondering what's behind those faux ducts next to the fog lights ...
#22
The ducts ARE directed at the brakes and they aren't faux. I'm waiting for some more mileage on the drivetrain before heading to the track. My boss and I plan on a track trip after he gets enough miles on his Carrera 4 too. I drove that bad boy the other day and it drives really nice. Six speed manual is something I miss... Visibility out of the C4 in all directions is much better than the IS as well. 20 more hp, 500lbs less weight, bigger tires, better suspension and brakes will make it a tough one to keep up with on the track. Should be a blast though.
#26
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
OK, so I've been digging through TIS. A couple of things are obvious. The front suspension pieces are common to all RWD platforms. This means the mounting points for the 250 brakes in front are the same as the mounting points for the 350 brakes. So, if you have the proper disc and caliper, it appears to be a bolt-on swap. The rear appears to be the same, but I have not dug quite as deep so I'm not absolutely sure. AFA the 250/350 front swap, I'd bet a paycheck on it.
Also, if there is any ducting, it isn't blowing into the hats. For brake ducting to be effective you need a tube delivering air to the center of the hat. There is NONE on the 250 or 350, so whatever effect you guys might have been expecting won't be nearly what you'd hoped for. If you really want to track this car, you'd be smart to put a nice fat duct from the front of the car to the center of the hat. JMHO.
Last but not least, the OEM ADVICS calipers are some of the very best made. They're a monoblock design with all four cylinders bored from the back, and plugs installed to complete the cylinders on the rear of the caliper. There is no separate mount for it, attachment is directly to the suspension upright with threads in the caliper and holes in the uprights. You will be VERY hard pressed to improve on this caliper from a pure performance perspective. Sure you can bling it up all you want, but this is one stout design with relatively light weight. I will not be investigating any BBK. I seriously doubt it will provide any improvement over stock, even on a track day if the right pads are in them, and especially if the necessary ducts are in place as well.
Also, if there is any ducting, it isn't blowing into the hats. For brake ducting to be effective you need a tube delivering air to the center of the hat. There is NONE on the 250 or 350, so whatever effect you guys might have been expecting won't be nearly what you'd hoped for. If you really want to track this car, you'd be smart to put a nice fat duct from the front of the car to the center of the hat. JMHO.
Last but not least, the OEM ADVICS calipers are some of the very best made. They're a monoblock design with all four cylinders bored from the back, and plugs installed to complete the cylinders on the rear of the caliper. There is no separate mount for it, attachment is directly to the suspension upright with threads in the caliper and holes in the uprights. You will be VERY hard pressed to improve on this caliper from a pure performance perspective. Sure you can bling it up all you want, but this is one stout design with relatively light weight. I will not be investigating any BBK. I seriously doubt it will provide any improvement over stock, even on a track day if the right pads are in them, and especially if the necessary ducts are in place as well.
#28
Wow, this looks exactly like the discussion over the Endless BBK, where I basically argued many of the same points. The cliff notes edition was that I thought the stockers would perform fine (maybe with the addition of better pads), and that $8000+ for Endless brakes was a waste, but whatever people want to spend their money on.
As far as lugs, that's easy, people strip them all of the time, so it has to be relatively easy for the techs to replace them. - Remove caliper, remove rotor, remove cotter pin, remove lock nut from CV, unbolt hub from back and remove, replace lug, reinstall in reverse order - use a new cotter pin.
-Brian
As far as lugs, that's easy, people strip them all of the time, so it has to be relatively easy for the techs to replace them. - Remove caliper, remove rotor, remove cotter pin, remove lock nut from CV, unbolt hub from back and remove, replace lug, reinstall in reverse order - use a new cotter pin.
-Brian
#29
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by rys
As far as lugs, that's easy, people strip them all of the time, so it has to be relatively easy for the techs to replace them. - Remove caliper, remove rotor, remove cotter pin, remove lock nut from CV, unbolt hub from back and remove, replace lug, reinstall in reverse order - use a new cotter pin.
-Brian
-Brian
#30
Maybe our terminology is different, but when I think knuckle I think steering knuckle? Hub is the piece where the studs go through? I thought I gave a pretty accurate description of removal, no "knuckle" needs to come off.
In any case, you seem to know what you are doing without needing the instructions so why ask? Basically, start taking pieces off until the piece with the studs comes off, replace studs, then put it back on the vehicle.
I did this to my last vehicle using a mallet and a vise.
-Brian
In any case, you seem to know what you are doing without needing the instructions so why ask? Basically, start taking pieces off until the piece with the studs comes off, replace studs, then put it back on the vehicle.
I did this to my last vehicle using a mallet and a vise.
-Brian