IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Tires won't break loose from a stop

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Old 09-27-06, 05:57 AM
  #16  
ff_
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Originally Posted by 15951
Either the Dunlop tires are exceptionally grippy
Well, we already know that this isn't the case.
Old 09-27-06, 09:11 AM
  #17  
jamthiede
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I have Dunlops on my 350 and at about 3,000 miles I could just floor it with ECT on and get the tires to chirp from a dead stop and then again when the car shifted to second.

Doesn't seem like it would be to difficult to get the rear tires loose after doing the pedal dance.
Old 09-27-06, 09:23 AM
  #18  
Gtidan
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Originally Posted by james6290
can somebody please organize this all in a list of steps that one must do in order to get some wheel spin and hopefully smoke?
Since smoking the wheels means a 'loss' of traction why don't you just pour some bleach in daddy's driveway and light up the tires. That way when you ruin the tires he can just have AAA come out and give you another set.
Old 09-27-06, 11:30 AM
  #19  
socalJD
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Originally Posted by socalJD
Easy, pour a lil clorox in front of the rear tires before you floor the throttle . . .
Originally Posted by Gtidan
Since smoking the wheels means a 'loss' of traction why don't you just pour some bleach in daddy's driveway and light up the tires...
Hmmm, must be an echo in this thread . . .

Originally Posted by james6290
can somebody please organize this all in a list of steps that one must do in order to get some wheelspin and hopefully smoke?
Seriously, a new set of rear tires will set you back $500+, so do you really want to be doing this on a regular basis ? If you must, wait til you have 20k miles and are about to replace the tires and get it out of your system then. Another thought is to slap on 2 of the compact spares on the rear and you can smoke the tires thru the 1st 3 gears . . .
Old 09-27-06, 02:46 PM
  #20  
y2ks2k
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The other day it rained so I turned vdm off and with very little pressure baked the rear wheels hard core. Way more then I expected, was bouncing off the red line.
Old 09-27-06, 04:14 PM
  #21  
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ive done burnouts in my 250... it cant be that hard in a 350..
Old 09-27-06, 04:48 PM
  #22  
lexem
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Originally Posted by james6290
can you do it w/o stepping on the brake, i hate that, i think its hard on the car...
So you want to spin the wheels and hopefully get smoke but you think stepping on the brake is hard on the car?
Old 09-27-06, 05:14 PM
  #23  
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the OP didn't mention anything about wanting to do a burnout. He simply was inquiring about what methods others are using for the quickest launch... and then as a sidepoint mentioned how he's never had the wheels break loose doing this, which makes the title of this thread a little misleading. The fact of the matter is that it's VERY, VERY easy to do a burnout on this car - just ask anyone who knows me... And just because someone ELSE wants to be hard on his or her car doesn't mean we should all jump his case - sheesh...
Originally Posted by al503
That's commonly referred to as the 'neutral slam.' This is the last thing you want to do and you could be out of pocket for a new tranny.
This is a tremendously important point. When you're brake torquing, all you're wasting is tires, gas, and brakes. "Neutral slamming" will ABSOLUTELY cost you a new transmission.

Javier

Last edited by javyLSU; 09-27-06 at 05:18 PM.
Old 09-27-06, 07:39 PM
  #24  
skorpio
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Well, I cant break my dunlops loose. Doesnt matter how i launch, if I floor it or just press the pedal quickly, whey wont even chirp (pedal dance or no pedal dance) doesnt matter. The car will just launch forward. Its weird. I was hoping for no torque brake launch and peeeeal with 306hp. Gess I was wrong. The only way the tires will break loose is when I turn. but I could do that with my automatic cavalier...

Is there a way to re-teach the ECM what it learned during the first 1300 miles. Just like it was said in the previous post, car learns your habbits during initial miles. and I was babying mine, maybe this is the reason why I cant peeeal out.

regards, Bart.
Old 09-27-06, 08:21 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by javyLSU
...When you're brake torquing, all you're wasting is tires, gas, and brakes. "Neutral slamming" will ABSOLUTELY cost you a new transmission.

Javier
Almost. Brake standing (brake and gas at the same time with no forward motion) also heats up the transmission fluid VERY quickly and will cause early transmission failure if you do this for too long or too frequently.

The FSM says no more than 5 seconds at stall speed, and at least 1 full minute in between events if you need to test stall more than once. Anything more could damage the torque converter according to the FSM.
Old 09-27-06, 08:36 PM
  #26  
Gtidan
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Don't know about the Lexus transmission but this game won't work in a Mercedes.
I once read a thread on the Mercedes forum where some dumb kid complained that when he backed up in reverse than rammed the tranie into drive nothing happened. The on board computer would not let the kid bust his tranie..............and he was complaining....go figure.
Maybe some 'dude' here will try it and let us know if Lexus has such safeguards. Truely, I can't wait to find out....
Old 09-28-06, 12:56 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Almost. Brake standing (brake and gas at the same time with no forward motion) also heats up the transmission fluid VERY quickly and will cause early transmission failure if you do this for too long or too frequently.

The FSM says no more than 5 seconds at stall speed, and at least 1 full minute in between events if you need to test stall more than once. Anything more could damage the torque converter according to the FSM.
Thanks! Yeah, I should have clarified it better, although it's pretty much implied that you're abusing your transmission whenever you attempt this. However, this is MUCH less abusive than doing the "neutral slam."
Originally Posted by skorpio
Is there a way to re-teach the ECM what it learned during the first 1300 miles...
Disconnect your battery and leave it disconnected for one hour. Make sure you write down all your radio settings and such, because you'll lose all of that. Reconnect your battery and drive as you wish.

Javier
Old 09-28-06, 01:15 AM
  #28  
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if ne body wants to try all this out.. make sure you do it b4 your warranty is up..
Old 09-28-06, 11:23 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by javyLSU
..."Disconnect your battery and leave it disconnected for one hour...
Javier
That's a bit excessive. Here's what Lexus says:
(Without using an intelligent tester)
(a) Perform either one of the following operations:
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable for more than 1 minute.
(2) Remove the EFI and ETCS fuses from the Engine Room No. 2 relay block, junction block located inside the engine compartment for more than 1 minute.
If you just pull the fuses, you won't lose any of your other stored settings like radio presets, and navigation information. Yes, you will lose ALL your nav stuff if you remove power from the unit. AMHIK.
Old 09-28-06, 02:50 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
That's a bit excessive. Here's what Lexus says:

If you just pull the fuses, you won't lose any of your other stored settings like radio presets, and navigation information. Yes, you will lose ALL your nav stuff if you remove power from the unit. AMHIK.
is this true? once the computer learns the style it is hard set? i thought they were continuous learning cpu's...


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