rattles by my left ear
11-15-06, 12:43 AM
#46
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
This is how I fixed it.
I have lots more pics, but no hosting for them. BTW, taking the panel off isn't hard, and it's sad the techs at a dealership would damage any part. I got everything off and back on without marking anything, scratching anything, or denting anything.
I have lots more pics, but no hosting for them. BTW, taking the panel off isn't hard, and it's sad the techs at a dealership would damage any part. I got everything off and back on without marking anything, scratching anything, or denting anything.
11-15-06, 08:47 AM
#48
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Get a wide flat blade screwdriver and wrap the shaft with electrical tape all the way down to the tip (just like it says in the service manual.)
Gently pry the cover from the door handle. Pry right between the lock and the cover, it will pop out very easily.
Gently pry from the rear of the window switch panel. I did this by pushing down on the black plastic behind the switch panel and sliding the tape wrapped screwdriver under the back edge of the panel. It popped up in the back. Then I moved the screwdriver to the gap just in front of the mirror switch and lightly pryed up to remove the front. Disconnect both connectors on the switch panel.
Gently pry the courtesy light (the red one) from the bottom rear of the panel. The forward edge comes out a little bit and exposes a catch. Push the light to the rear to clear the catch, then remove the entire light assembly and disconnect the wire.
There is a #2 phillips screw in the middle of the door handle that was exposed by removing the cover. Remove this screw.
There is a #3 phillips screw (silver) visible when you remove the window switch panel. Remove this screw.
There are nine plastic clips holding the panel in place. They require a pretty significant effort to make them release. I started with my fingers inside the hole for the courtesy light - you can see one of the clips through this hole - and pulled the panel towards me. Once one of them releases, the rest come more easily. Be very careful with the clips at the top front. This area of the panel is not particularly strong. I slid my fingers underneath the panel to get as close as possible to the clip to make it release. An unwary mechanic could damage the panel by just indiscriminately pulling on the panel. It seemed to me this might crack it, so I got as close as possible to the clip to make it release.
There is a locating pin near the door handle that has to clear the metal part of the door before the panel can be lifted off. Pull the panel away from the door about 8 inches at the bottom to clear this pin. Once the pin is cleared, you start from the back and pull the panel straight up to get the four metal clips to release from the top edge of the door.
Disconnect the two cables from the door and lock assembly, disconnect the two remaining electrical connections, and the panel is completely separated from the door.
Installation is the reverse. Note that the cables for the lock and door release must be fully snapped into place after engaging the ball ends in the mechanism. If you do not snap the cables into place, the lock will not work correctly. Also, there are round black plastic sound deadening gizmos that go around each of the nine plastic clips. Some of mine stuck to the clips, some to the door, and one fell on the floor when I removed the panel.
That's all there is to it. If you have a "clip tool" you might find removing the panel a little easier.
Gently pry the cover from the door handle. Pry right between the lock and the cover, it will pop out very easily.
Gently pry from the rear of the window switch panel. I did this by pushing down on the black plastic behind the switch panel and sliding the tape wrapped screwdriver under the back edge of the panel. It popped up in the back. Then I moved the screwdriver to the gap just in front of the mirror switch and lightly pryed up to remove the front. Disconnect both connectors on the switch panel.
Gently pry the courtesy light (the red one) from the bottom rear of the panel. The forward edge comes out a little bit and exposes a catch. Push the light to the rear to clear the catch, then remove the entire light assembly and disconnect the wire.
There is a #2 phillips screw in the middle of the door handle that was exposed by removing the cover. Remove this screw.
There is a #3 phillips screw (silver) visible when you remove the window switch panel. Remove this screw.
There are nine plastic clips holding the panel in place. They require a pretty significant effort to make them release. I started with my fingers inside the hole for the courtesy light - you can see one of the clips through this hole - and pulled the panel towards me. Once one of them releases, the rest come more easily. Be very careful with the clips at the top front. This area of the panel is not particularly strong. I slid my fingers underneath the panel to get as close as possible to the clip to make it release. An unwary mechanic could damage the panel by just indiscriminately pulling on the panel. It seemed to me this might crack it, so I got as close as possible to the clip to make it release.
There is a locating pin near the door handle that has to clear the metal part of the door before the panel can be lifted off. Pull the panel away from the door about 8 inches at the bottom to clear this pin. Once the pin is cleared, you start from the back and pull the panel straight up to get the four metal clips to release from the top edge of the door.
Disconnect the two cables from the door and lock assembly, disconnect the two remaining electrical connections, and the panel is completely separated from the door.
Installation is the reverse. Note that the cables for the lock and door release must be fully snapped into place after engaging the ball ends in the mechanism. If you do not snap the cables into place, the lock will not work correctly. Also, there are round black plastic sound deadening gizmos that go around each of the nine plastic clips. Some of mine stuck to the clips, some to the door, and one fell on the floor when I removed the panel.
That's all there is to it. If you have a "clip tool" you might find removing the panel a little easier.
11-15-06, 01:02 PM
#49
That is nice that you problem was the door panel. Prior to taking my car back to the dealership for the second time, I removed the panel and drove the car arounf the block. Noise was still there.
The dealership did cured the problem, but there is a scratch on the panel and the door don't open and close the same way as the others. The adjusted the door frame and window.
The dealership did cured the problem, but there is a scratch on the panel and the door don't open and close the same way as the others. The adjusted the door frame and window.
11-15-06, 04:44 PM
#50
Get a wide flat blade screwdriver and wrap the shaft with electrical tape all the way down to the tip (just like it says in the service manual.)
Gently pry the cover from the door handle. Pry right between the lock and the cover, it will pop out very easily.
Gently pry from the rear of the window switch panel. I did this by pushing down on the black plastic behind the switch panel and sliding the tape wrapped screwdriver under the back edge of the panel. It popped up in the back. Then I moved the screwdriver to the gap just in front of the mirror switch and lightly pryed up to remove the front. Disconnect both connectors on the switch panel.
Gently pry the courtesy light (the red one) from the bottom rear of the panel. The forward edge comes out a little bit and exposes a catch. Push the light to the rear to clear the catch, then remove the entire light assembly and disconnect the wire.
There is a #2 phillips screw in the middle of the door handle that was exposed by removing the cover. Remove this screw.
There is a #3 phillips screw (silver) visible when you remove the window switch panel. Remove this screw.
There are nine plastic clips holding the panel in place. They require a pretty significant effort to make them release. I started with my fingers inside the hole for the courtesy light - you can see one of the clips through this hole - and pulled the panel towards me. Once one of them releases, the rest come more easily. Be very careful with the clips at the top front. This area of the panel is not particularly strong. I slid my fingers underneath the panel to get as close as possible to the clip to make it release. An unwary mechanic could damage the panel by just indiscriminately pulling on the panel. It seemed to me this might crack it, so I got as close as possible to the clip to make it release.
There is a locating pin near the door handle that has to clear the metal part of the door before the panel can be lifted off. Pull the panel away from the door about 8 inches at the bottom to clear this pin. Once the pin is cleared, you start from the back and pull the panel straight up to get the four metal clips to release from the top edge of the door.
Disconnect the two cables from the door and lock assembly, disconnect the two remaining electrical connections, and the panel is completely separated from the door.
Installation is the reverse. Note that the cables for the lock and door release must be fully snapped into place after engaging the ball ends in the mechanism. If you do not snap the cables into place, the lock will not work correctly. Also, there are round black plastic sound deadening gizmos that go around each of the nine plastic clips. Some of mine stuck to the clips, some to the door, and one fell on the floor when I removed the panel.
That's all there is to it. If you have a "clip tool" you might find removing the panel a little easier.
Gently pry the cover from the door handle. Pry right between the lock and the cover, it will pop out very easily.
Gently pry from the rear of the window switch panel. I did this by pushing down on the black plastic behind the switch panel and sliding the tape wrapped screwdriver under the back edge of the panel. It popped up in the back. Then I moved the screwdriver to the gap just in front of the mirror switch and lightly pryed up to remove the front. Disconnect both connectors on the switch panel.
Gently pry the courtesy light (the red one) from the bottom rear of the panel. The forward edge comes out a little bit and exposes a catch. Push the light to the rear to clear the catch, then remove the entire light assembly and disconnect the wire.
There is a #2 phillips screw in the middle of the door handle that was exposed by removing the cover. Remove this screw.
There is a #3 phillips screw (silver) visible when you remove the window switch panel. Remove this screw.
There are nine plastic clips holding the panel in place. They require a pretty significant effort to make them release. I started with my fingers inside the hole for the courtesy light - you can see one of the clips through this hole - and pulled the panel towards me. Once one of them releases, the rest come more easily. Be very careful with the clips at the top front. This area of the panel is not particularly strong. I slid my fingers underneath the panel to get as close as possible to the clip to make it release. An unwary mechanic could damage the panel by just indiscriminately pulling on the panel. It seemed to me this might crack it, so I got as close as possible to the clip to make it release.
There is a locating pin near the door handle that has to clear the metal part of the door before the panel can be lifted off. Pull the panel away from the door about 8 inches at the bottom to clear this pin. Once the pin is cleared, you start from the back and pull the panel straight up to get the four metal clips to release from the top edge of the door.
Disconnect the two cables from the door and lock assembly, disconnect the two remaining electrical connections, and the panel is completely separated from the door.
Installation is the reverse. Note that the cables for the lock and door release must be fully snapped into place after engaging the ball ends in the mechanism. If you do not snap the cables into place, the lock will not work correctly. Also, there are round black plastic sound deadening gizmos that go around each of the nine plastic clips. Some of mine stuck to the clips, some to the door, and one fell on the floor when I removed the panel.
That's all there is to it. If you have a "clip tool" you might find removing the panel a little easier.
11-15-06, 08:47 PM
#51
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
11-16-06, 01:16 AM
#53
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
That is exactly how it looked when I took it off. I didn't change anything except the foam in the metal clips at the top. It's possible this was a production change to reduce the noise coming from the door catch. It does look tacked on, not like part of the original design.
Yes, they used hot glue in a number of places to assemble the panel.
Also, after a long drive yesterday (a little over 350 miles total for the day), I noticed there are still some circumstances where the noise recurs. I think I need a different approach than the expanded neoprene weather stripping. I'm going to think about it for a day or so, then try something else. The symptoms are identical again - push or pull slightly on the panel right about where the second clip from the back is and it stops - just fewer road types that make it resonate. I'll update this thread with a better solution when I figure it out. At least it is MUCH better now, it was driving me nuts.
Yes, they used hot glue in a number of places to assemble the panel.
Also, after a long drive yesterday (a little over 350 miles total for the day), I noticed there are still some circumstances where the noise recurs. I think I need a different approach than the expanded neoprene weather stripping. I'm going to think about it for a day or so, then try something else. The symptoms are identical again - push or pull slightly on the panel right about where the second clip from the back is and it stops - just fewer road types that make it resonate. I'll update this thread with a better solution when I figure it out. At least it is MUCH better now, it was driving me nuts.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 11-16-06 at 11:38 AM.
11-16-06, 12:01 PM
#54
Pole Position
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Rattles
Gentlemen:
Been following this thread with interest as I have an 07 ES 350 on order.....delivery expected in January 07. Question; do any of these rattle posts relate to 07s or are they all 06s. If 07s, what are the build dates.
My hope is that Lexus has noted all these reports, and those from dealers, and have fixed them in current manufacturing process.
Let me know. Thanks.
NGG
Been following this thread with interest as I have an 07 ES 350 on order.....delivery expected in January 07. Question; do any of these rattle posts relate to 07s or are they all 06s. If 07s, what are the build dates.
My hope is that Lexus has noted all these reports, and those from dealers, and have fixed them in current manufacturing process.
Let me know. Thanks.
NGG
11-16-06, 01:00 PM
#55
My car is an 07' off the delivery truck on 09/23/06 & pick-up same day.
That is my other Love in the background.
The dealer gave me a loaner 06' ES350 for four days while they trouble shoot the noise. The loaner also have the same rattle by my left ear.
Well, like I said in the last thread. The rattle is GONE! At the exspense of the door opens and close slightly off alignment compared to the other doors. If you want to know what I mean by off alignment, wrap a couple layers of electrical tape to "c" shaped door hook on the body. It is excactly how my door now opens.
Try it and let me know if you guys think it is worth doing to get rid of the rattle.
That is my other Love in the background.
The dealer gave me a loaner 06' ES350 for four days while they trouble shoot the noise. The loaner also have the same rattle by my left ear.
Well, like I said in the last thread. The rattle is GONE! At the exspense of the door opens and close slightly off alignment compared to the other doors. If you want to know what I mean by off alignment, wrap a couple layers of electrical tape to "c" shaped door hook on the body. It is excactly how my door now opens.
Try it and let me know if you guys think it is worth doing to get rid of the rattle.
11-16-06, 01:15 PM
#56
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Mine is an '06 built in 6/06. I tried the tape first, and it didn't change anything for me. That's why I went the other route.
Also, I found a door panel clip tool that should be locally available to just about anyone for a pretty low price. I'm going to get one later today. It will take the worry out of removing the panel and damaging it instead of actually fixing it.
Also, I found a door panel clip tool that should be locally available to just about anyone for a pretty low price. I'm going to get one later today. It will take the worry out of removing the panel and damaging it instead of actually fixing it.
11-16-06, 05:24 PM
#58
Mainly at low speed or the freeway at a bend, the rattle is more noticeable.
It was there all the time. That is why I could not deal with it.
Lobuxracer,
Have you try driving the car without the panel on? What does the clip removal tool look like? Show pics please.
Back to my last question to you guys.
Previous question:
Well, like I said in the last thread. The rattle is GONE! At the exspense of the door opens and close slightly off alignment compared to the other doors. If you want to know what I mean by off alignment, wrap a couple layers of electrical tape to "c" shaped door hook on the body. It is excactly how my door now opens.
Try it and let me know if you guys think it is worth doing to get rid of the rattle.
It was there all the time. That is why I could not deal with it.
Lobuxracer,
Have you try driving the car without the panel on? What does the clip removal tool look like? Show pics please.
Back to my last question to you guys.
Previous question:
Well, like I said in the last thread. The rattle is GONE! At the exspense of the door opens and close slightly off alignment compared to the other doors. If you want to know what I mean by off alignment, wrap a couple layers of electrical tape to "c" shaped door hook on the body. It is excactly how my door now opens.
Try it and let me know if you guys think it is worth doing to get rid of the rattle.
11-16-06, 11:32 PM
#59
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
