speakers wiring on OEM amp
#1
speakers wiring on OEM amp
Does anyone have info on how the speakers are wired to amp?
Front Hi - Front Mid - Front Low to amp or Front Hi/Mid and Low to amp?
Rear full to amp?
JL clean sweep or Audio Control?
Thanks!
Front Hi - Front Mid - Front Low to amp or Front Hi/Mid and Low to amp?
Rear full to amp?
JL clean sweep or Audio Control?
Thanks!
#2
ive been debating the same thing... if you want to bypass the factory equalization go with the Cleansweep. but i prefer the Audiocontrol LC8 since it has more outputs and flexibility. from what i understand you have to sum the speaker outputs into the LC8 or cleansweep to get the signal to feed the amps. maybe cmusic will chime in here to help us out?
#3
The factory amp(nonML) has several plugs in it and if you go to your local stereo store and purchase 2 or 3 metra 71-1761 harness then you can use them to interface to the factory amp......I did that going into a audio control lc8 and then from that into a JL Cleansweep You need the LC8 as a summing device unless you use the JL ss1...since the cleansweep needs a full range signal and if you get metra's 70-1761 harness you then have speaker connections
Last edited by sanwong; 12-06-06 at 01:45 PM.
#4
The factory amp(nonML) has several plugs in it and if you go to your local stereo store and purchase 2 or 3 metra 71-1761 harness then you can use them to interface to the factory amp......I did that going into a audio control lc8 and then from that into a JL Cleansweep You need the LC8 as a summing device unless you use the JL ss1...since the cleansweep needs a full range signal and if you get metra's 70-1761 harness you then have speaker connections
#6
No you can't because the cleansweep requires a full range signal and all the signals coming from the factory amp are crossed over. The 70-1761 will plug into the harness to connect to the speakers whereas the 71-1761 plugs into the factory amp to provide signal from the deck/amp
#7
is there really big difference with and without using the clean sweep? have you tried running your system with output coming directly from the LC8? i have not looked at the stock amp yet but can i use 1 or 2 of the metra harness just so i can get the signal for the Front speakers and sub? I was planning to use a 4 CH amp and run a set of 3 way components and power a single sub. I like to make the wiring simple as possible so that it can be returned to stock without hassle.
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#9
Someone had said that the factory deck is almost flat. What did your system sound like without the Clean Sweep?
The LC8 is basicly a high performance High/Low converter right?
The LC8 is basicly a high performance High/Low converter right?
#11
#12
For the non-ML system the mids and tweeters in each door are on one channel while the woofers are on their own channel. So each door has two channels. The rear doors are the same as the fronts. The woofers play from 50 Hz to 1 KHz. The mids and tweeters play 1 Khz and up. The sub has two channels from the factory amp and plays from 30 to roughly 120 Hz.
The sub has an 6 dB eq boost around 80 Hz and the woofer channels have a slight 3 dB dip around 250 to 500 Hz. The mid/tweeter channels are flat with no eq. If you have a seperate eq in the aftermarket system you could lower 80 Hz 4-6 dB and be perfectly fine without having to use a JL Audio Cleansweep. The slight dip from 250 to 500 Hz is not as noticable or annoying as the 80 Hz boost. If you are adding a sub a boost around 25 Hz can also bring out the deep subbass the factory sub can't handle.
I've used the Audio Control LC8 with excellent results but now I use two David Navone LOCs (Line Output Convertors or hi/low convertors) and sum their outputs together. I had to do some extra wiring with the Navone LOCs but ended up with the same result as the LC8 for about half the cost. For most non-car audio installer types the LC8 is the best choice.
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#14
Cmusic,
Thank you for the detailed info. It really helped to understand without ripping it all out and test.
I saw something online on Soundgate's Active line output converter LOCB.2. Have you looked into this?
If it works the the IS, then is is a great product to use. No hi/lows straight from the deck.
Thank you for the detailed info. It really helped to understand without ripping it all out and test.
I saw something online on Soundgate's Active line output converter LOCB.2. Have you looked into this?
If it works the the IS, then is is a great product to use. No hi/lows straight from the deck.
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