Technique

The JL Audio slash series amps can accept high level powered signals... No line level converters are necessary...

Technique

No, the speaker wires going to the stock sub are rerouted to the JL Audio amp...

Ya, I just wanted more bass, the rest sounded great to me

Technique

Yup... I mostly listen to hip hop/rap though, about 75%... the rest is rock... It all sounds about the same as stock, just more bass... hehe...

07Txlex

That's where my shop mounted my amp also.. After 2 months it was no longer working, I did some research and most amp maunfactors recommend not mounting it upside down to the rear deck, something about the heatsink can't work properly.. Yea come to find out that only cheap amps have that problem.. Pointless post I guess but mines in the same place again with no problems as of yet

Technique

Actually, I want to revise my answer to this post... I feel that the low-end bass is great... BUT, the mid-range bass (say, 100-150hz is very weak)... Now, this is not a problem for most music, but I thought I'd mention it... Here's why this happens in the IS350...

The factory subwoofer signal is crossed over... Only 30hz to 80hz is allowed to pass... So anything below 30hz is filtered out, and anything above 80hz is filtered out... Below 30hz is not a problem, as the low-end bass is already shattering the car into pieces if I turn the gain up... The problem is from 80 to about 120hz or so... This "mid-bass" is definitely weak... Not really a "huge" problem, but if I had my way, I'd like about 20% more bass in that range... But from what I can tell, there is no way to do this...

Any ideas on how to get around this? (Besides a JL Cleansweep which would be silly just for 1 subwoofer)

Here are the settings on my JL Audio 250/1 amp btw:

AMP LP FILTER: OFF
BASS CONTROL: OFF
LF BOOST: 0 DB
INPUT VOLTAGE: HIGH
INPUT SENS: MINIMUM (Fully counter-clockwise)
SIGNAL SENSING: OFF

Any recommendations on how to get more "upper" end bass in the system?

IS_250

iTrader: (2)

from what ive seen the only way to get a full range signal is to sum the inputs into a device like the cleansweep or audiocontrol LC 8

Ramon

I've used JL subs exclusively in every car audio system i've had and have yet to blow one.

CK6Speed

iTrader: (1)

Same here. I've used JL subs as far back as the early 90s. I have never blown one. In fact, I have never blown any speaker ever. I'm still amazed at how people can blow speakers left and right. Seems like a waste of money to me to keep having to buy new speakers.

cpsmith516

and you're basing this statement off of what? I've owned many of JL's subwoofers and have yet to blow one. In response to your comment I'll go one step further to say I abuse the hell out of my subs, and enter them in SPL comps regularly; I have however managed to lock up the voice coils on 3 Rockford Fosgate DVC 12's and 3 10's as well (the old dvc's before rockford went all futuristic looking and focused more on quality), also locked up 4 (2 and then 2 again) Kicker Solobaric 12's (old school round ones). And before anyone quizzes me on clipping them out, or underpowering them, I was driving the Solobarics with 2 Linear Power DPS500's, and the 3 12's with 3 Phoenix Gold ZX350's running at 2 Ohms.

I know it's rather off topic, and will probably derail the thread into a subwoofer debate, but I can't stand it when someone bashes an entire brand because of one bad experience. To each his own, but I will firmly back JL products and continue to use them in my vehicles based on personal experience with other brands.

And to add to the topic about Technique's install, it looks very very clean. I know you had to pay an arm and a leg for it; you couldn't get them to clean up those screws holding down the trim around the sub?

Dj_AmtraX

iTrader: (2)

I noticed in the pictures that no Dynamat was used. Any rattles? If so, where?

Technique

Correct, no dynamat.

No rattles, either inside or outside the car... But, keep in mind that my license plate is paper (30-day temp tag)... I'm sure when I switch to a metal one it will vibrate... I may dynamat the back of the license plate...

Technique

Install wasn't that much money actually... (Well, I didn't think it was) I paid $380 for everything, which included all the materials (power and rca cables)... They worked on it for about 5-6 hours straight...

The "screws holding down the trim around the sub" you are referring to... You mean the screws holding down the JL Subwoofer? They bolted the subwoofer to the trunk floor so it wouldn't move around... They did this at the very end because they said that it was heavy enough that it shouldn't move around at all... But I told them that I take corners VERY fast sometimes and I was positive the sub would go tumbling around So they sort of thought about using straps, velcro, or whatever and I was like "Just use a small bracket and a bolt or something, let's make it 100% mounted"...

I bet there is a better/cleaner way to do it... Any suggestions?

mlee21

$380? wow thats a lot.

im paying around $350 for my place to install a custom enclosure for 2 subs, cables, and labor.

kilo6_one

iTrader: (2)

wow, 30.00 difference..........
Gotta love the nickle and dimers!

anyway, i like the clean aspect of your set up. I would love to upgrade my bass, however i need my trunk space. I would like to see a premade fiberglass enclosure for the right side of the trunk.......

uschardcor

all ignorant blanket statements blow.

as far as the install. nope, bolting it to the body is the best thing you can do. if you're making kick pods, bolting to the body is typically done on a good install, mostly for sound purposes. for your sub, i don't care how heave it is, it will shift roll tumble or just fly to the rear if you're "driving".