Had JL Audio subwoofer and amplified installed today - PICS
#31
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if it were me (an ex installer from my highschool days, so nothing too pro; but the first thing that came to mind) I would have taken the sub out of the box, drilled the screws through the bottom of the box from the inside into the trunk floor, then put the sub back in. 100% hidden bolts
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#32
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as far as the install. nope, bolting it to the body is the best thing you can do. if you're making kick pods, bolting to the body is typically done on a good install, mostly for sound purposes. for your sub, i don't care how heave it is, it will shift roll tumble or just fly to the rear if you're "driving".
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#33
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BTW, total cost of my system add-on was exactly 1G:
Amp - $220
Subwoofer with enclosure - $400
Parts and labor - $380
TOTAL - $1000 for bass
#34
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if it were me (an ex installer from my highschool days, so nothing too pro; but the first thing that came to mind) I would have taken the sub out of the box, drilled the screws through the bottom of the box from the inside into the trunk floor, then put the sub back in. 100% hidden bolts ![Big Grin](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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#35
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Actually, I want to revise my answer to this post... I feel that the low-end bass is great... BUT, the mid-range bass (say, 100-150hz is very weak)... Now, this is not a problem for most music, but I thought I'd mention it... Here's why this happens in the IS350...
The factory subwoofer signal is crossed over... Only 30hz to 80hz is allowed to pass... So anything below 30hz is filtered out, and anything above 80hz is filtered out... Below 30hz is not a problem, as the low-end bass is already shattering the car into pieces if I turn the gain up... The problem is from 80 to about 120hz or so... This "mid-bass" is definitely weak...
Not really a "huge" problem, but if I had my way, I'd like about 20% more bass in that range... But from what I can tell, there is no way to do this...
Any ideas on how to get around this? (Besides a JL Cleansweep which would be silly just for 1 subwoofer)
Here are the settings on my JL Audio 250/1 amp btw:
AMP LP FILTER: OFF
BASS CONTROL: OFF
LF BOOST: 0 DB
INPUT VOLTAGE: HIGH
INPUT SENS: MINIMUM (Fully counter-clockwise)
SIGNAL SENSING: OFF
Any recommendations on how to get more "upper" end bass in the system?
The factory subwoofer signal is crossed over... Only 30hz to 80hz is allowed to pass... So anything below 30hz is filtered out, and anything above 80hz is filtered out... Below 30hz is not a problem, as the low-end bass is already shattering the car into pieces if I turn the gain up... The problem is from 80 to about 120hz or so... This "mid-bass" is definitely weak...
![Frown](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Any ideas on how to get around this? (Besides a JL Cleansweep which would be silly just for 1 subwoofer)
Here are the settings on my JL Audio 250/1 amp btw:
AMP LP FILTER: OFF
BASS CONTROL: OFF
LF BOOST: 0 DB
INPUT VOLTAGE: HIGH
INPUT SENS: MINIMUM (Fully counter-clockwise)
SIGNAL SENSING: OFF
Any recommendations on how to get more "upper" end bass in the system?
#38
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The w7 is indeed amazing (I had a 12w7) but the w6v2 isn't a slouch either. Properly installed, powered and x-overed, they are excellent subs.
#39
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I have just installed my system and was having the same issues. I talked to my installer and the clean sweep will not work. However, he did talk to the JL Audio rep and they are introducing a new product at CES in Jan. The product functions the same as a cleansweep however is specifically designed for subwoofer applications. It should go into production shortly and will be avalible in April or May. My installer told me JL was interested in testing one of the later models in my car, Ill keep you guys updated if that happens
BTW, after 24 hours and a few more minor tweaks, I am 99% satisfied... It might be nice to have the crossover at 120hz instead of 80hz, but I don't know if I'd spend any significant amount of time/money to achieve that... If there was a plug and play JL Audio product for that, then yes, but if it would require hours of labor, then no...
#40
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Looks like Bailey's Crossroad (Myer-Emco). They do damn good work. Chris and the staff from their location did the install on my IS250 nearly a year ago. The installed an amp and 2 12"s. The install was great, but I had to take it out since I did not have any trunk space.
#41
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what i meant by blow is 'suck' not blow up/crap out.
ill rephrase it though since my statement got some heat.
what i meant, is i had 2 10w3v2's before in my maxima and it was not enough bass at all. i cannot see 1 10" being a big improvement over the ML 8" sub..
anyways, if i were to change out my ML sub, id go with something that has knock like the 13.5w7 or at least a 12w7.
ill rephrase it though since my statement got some heat.
what i meant, is i had 2 10w3v2's before in my maxima and it was not enough bass at all. i cannot see 1 10" being a big improvement over the ML 8" sub..
anyways, if i were to change out my ML sub, id go with something that has knock like the 13.5w7 or at least a 12w7.
#42
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Well, you're wrong man... It's a HUGE improvement... Night and day...
The stock ML sub puts out almost no bass compared to the 10" in my car now... I have the gain on the 250/1 turned all the way down and I still have to turn the bass down on the head unit for certain hip hop songs... The SPL is just too much otherwise...
The stock ML sub puts out almost no bass compared to the 10" in my car now... I have the gain on the 250/1 turned all the way down and I still have to turn the bass down on the head unit for certain hip hop songs... The SPL is just too much otherwise...
#43
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what i meant by blow is 'suck' not blow up/crap out.
ill rephrase it though since my statement got some heat.
what i meant, is i had 2 10w3v2's before in my maxima and it was not enough bass at all. i cannot see 1 10" being a big improvement over the ML 8" sub..
anyways, if i were to change out my ML sub, id go with something that has knock like the 13.5w7 or at least a 12w7.
ill rephrase it though since my statement got some heat.
what i meant, is i had 2 10w3v2's before in my maxima and it was not enough bass at all. i cannot see 1 10" being a big improvement over the ML 8" sub..
anyways, if i were to change out my ML sub, id go with something that has knock like the 13.5w7 or at least a 12w7.
What size of amp were you running on the maxima? I have the JL500/1 and it rocks the **** out of my IS350 with the gain all the way down. I also have 2 10wv2s. I wonder if it was your amp or the way they wire your speakers together that made have no bass? If we have a meet sometime next year i'll let you hear my 10s and let you decide.
#44
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Well, you're wrong man... It's a HUGE improvement... Night and day...
The stock ML sub puts out almost no bass compared to the 10" in my car now... I have the gain on the 250/1 turned all the way down and I still have to turn the bass down on the head unit for certain hip hop songs... The SPL is just too much otherwise...
The stock ML sub puts out almost no bass compared to the 10" in my car now... I have the gain on the 250/1 turned all the way down and I still have to turn the bass down on the head unit for certain hip hop songs... The SPL is just too much otherwise...
I would have to agree that 1 10" w7 can't be much of an improvement over the stock ML sub (especially when you consider the money spent)......That's just as far quantity of bass. I'm sure the quality is night and day. My friend has 2 10" w7's in his Mustang and they don't even scrape the surface of my 1 12" Kicker L7. That's with the sub restrictions we have with the IS headunit. He has an aftermarket headunit and still doesn't produce as much bass. But when I get inside his car and listen to his bass, the quality is outstanding.
I know that alot of other things come into play like: size amp and what not but.......he's powering each sub with an individual amp and he doesn't have earth shaking bass.
So I would just say....if you were going for quality, you made a really good decision. For earth shaking bass, JL anything is not the way to go.
#45
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I would have to agree that 1 10" w7 can't be much of an improvement over the stock ML sub (especially when you consider the money spent)......That's just as far quantity of bass. I'm sure the quality is night and day. My friend has 2 10" w7's in his Mustang and they don't even scrape the surface of my 1 12" Kicker L7. That's with the sub restrictions we have with the IS headunit. He has an aftermarket headunit and still doesn't produce as much bass. But when I get inside his car and listen to his bass, the quality is outstanding.
I know that alot of other things come into play like: size amp and what not but.......he's powering each sub with an individual amp and he doesn't have earth shaking bass.
So I would just say....if you were going for quality, you made a really good decision. For earth shaking bass, JL anything is not the way to go.
I know that alot of other things come into play like: size amp and what not but.......he's powering each sub with an individual amp and he doesn't have earth shaking bass.
So I would just say....if you were going for quality, you made a really good decision. For earth shaking bass, JL anything is not the way to go.
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Remember, I am comparing this to the stock sub, which basically outputs NO bass... So while I might not have earth shaking bass, it's 10X more than the stock system which is basically non-existent bass...
Oh, and btw, I have a W6, not a W7