IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

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Old 01-17-07, 09:11 AM
  #16  
tcho82
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Originally Posted by VikDiddy
You CA boys got it easy. Winter around here can be brutal and I have no choice but to let the dealer wash the car. They have done a good job so far and I haven't noticed any damage besides swirls. But swirls are to be expected eventually.
Same deal here. I've always hand washed all of my previous cars, but since my dealer offers it for free, and the winters here are freakin cold, I have no choice.

Since its not black I don't worry too much though.

Plus come spring time, I'll hit it with the porter cable so any swirls will be removed anyhow.

I used to always pay for hand car washes for my other car during the winter, but since my dealership offers a pretty decent free car wash once a week, its hard to justify the extra money to pay more money for a hand wash...
Old 01-17-07, 10:20 AM
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ihkskim
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id' rather get swirls than have permanent stains on my rims from their degreaser
Old 01-17-07, 10:22 AM
  #18  
abood174
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i own a white IS300 (gulf specs) which i purchased last week,.... when i look closely to the body near the door i find tiny yellow dots that don't seem to be vanishing with a wet cloth ?! any idea of wat i should do ?!
and any idea of how often it is best to wash the car & how and wat to use ... ex: with water and cloth or soap .... also the rims and tyres and interior plzzzzzzzzz?! ?
Old 01-17-07, 05:17 PM
  #19  
warrionex
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Default Instructions for removing swirl marks

Here you go my friend, I know this will help !! For the complete guide go to http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-p...sh-clinic.html

The guide includes this sections:
* Repairing paint damage with auto polish
* Removing swirl marks, water spots and bird damage
* Fixing paint chips and scratches
* Paintless dent repair (PDR)



PAINT POLISHING CLINIC

WATER SPOTS & SWIRL MARKS

I get a lot of questions from people regarding water spots and swirl marks. Water spots and swirl marks are different problems, but most often the solution is the same: polish the paint. I'll address each problem separately.

Water Spots
The same water you use to bathe your car can also damage your car's paint. The spots and damage are caused by the minerals in the water. When water evaporates off of your car's paint, it leaves behind the trace elements it contains. Calcium and metals are the most damaging ingredients found in your tap water. Rainwater may contain damaging acids from air pollutants.

Getting rid of water spots is easy if you chase after them. The best solution is to use a quick detailing spray after you wash, or as soon as you discover the spots (i.e., when your neighbor's sprinkler gets you).

If the spots are allowed to dry and bake on, they will attach to and harden on your paint. When this happens, you need to use a mild acid to get them loose. Believe it or not, the best acid is also the least expensive and most available: a gallon jug of distilled white vinegar.

Expert car detailers have known this secret for years. If you take your car to a pro, they will tell you about the "magic acid bath" and charge you $60 or more for the pleasure of smelling like a pickle. Save the $60. Put on some gloves and get to it.

To give your car the magic acid bath, first wash your car with your normal car shampoo, rinse, and then use the distilled vinegar. Just wipe it on with a sponge, and rub it in. Do one section at a time. Let it sit 30 to 60 seconds, and then rinse. When you're done, wash the car again with shampoo, and then rinse. By the way, vinegar will remove your wax, so be prepared to re-wax your car after the vinegar treatment.


Sprinklers showered this car with hard water. The car then sat in the sun for several days, causing the hard-water deposits to harden. Vinegar will remove the spots from the aluminum bumper, plastic taillights and rubber trim, but the paint will need to be polished and buffed with a buffer.

If water spots are allowed to stay for more than a week or so, the minerals will etch the paint. In this case, using vinegar will remove the mineral spots, but the paint will have etched spots (dimples). It is necessary to use a polish or mild polishing compound to restore the paint surface.

Swirl Marks
Swirl marks are nothing more than micro marring in the paint surface. Under a microscope, they appear to be scratches; however, you can't feel these scratches with your fingers or finger nail.



The reason swirl marks and other micro marring show up so prominently on black and other dark colors is because the sides of the marring reflect light. When you polish, the edges are rounded and reduce reflection.

This diagram shows what severe micro marring might look like in a cross section of paint.

A buffer in the hands of a pro can do wonders on a car that has heavy oxidation or minor scratches. Most body shops can use a buffer to blend touch-ups to perfection. Unfortunately, many detail shops and buffer owners don't know how to use the tool, or they use the wrong buffing pads or compounds.

Incorrect use of a buffer or polisher is not the only cause of swirl marks. Every time you wash or wipe down your car, you create micro marring. The severity of the micro marring depends on your tools and the contaminants present. Here are the ten most frequent causes of micro marring (swirl marks):

1. Polishers/buffers with the incorrect pad or an untrained operator.
2. Harsh polishing compounds and paint cleaners.
3. Towels and applicators containing polyester threads.
4. A dirty chamois or a chamois that has not been properly maintained.
5. Wiping down a dusty or dirty car with a dry towel.
6. A dirty car duster or a car duster used on a car with too much dirt on the surface.
7. Not keeping your wash mitt or sponge properly rinsed.
8. Automated car washes with brushes and other wipers.
9. Not rinsing your car completely before washing, or not washing your car thoroughly before drying.
10. Using a car cover when the car or the cover is not clean.

The most noticeable areas for swirl marks are the hood and trunk. On dark-colored cars, they might also show up on the doors and fenders. Bright colors do not show swirl marks as much because they reflect more light. That doesn't mean they don't get swirl marks; the marks just show up more readily on dark colors. Black, of course, is the worst of all colors for displaying swirls and other imperfections.


This picture, taken by Scott Borders prior to detailing, clearly shows buffing marks and other micro marring created by an inexperienced dealership detailer with a buffer. No doubt the Ford truck looked great when the owner took it home, because most buffer jockeys use a high-gloss wax that temporarily fills the buffing marks and other minor scratches.


After buffing and polishing, the swirl marks and hazing are no longer visible, and the paint surface has a deep, wet look. Scott did a great job, and the truck owner is very pleased.

Swirl marks can be removed by polishing. Polishing out swirl marks without a buffer is a lot of work. I recommend polishing your car one small section at a time so you can see the progress.

To remove swirl marks, use a good polish or "swirl remover." Many polish manufacturers market a special polish for removing swirls. Swirl remover polish formulas typically contain fillers and oils to help hide swirl marks. With regular polishing, over time, swirl marks will diminish. It's very difficult to completely remove swirl marks. Even the best towels and wash tools cause some micromarring.

Polishing to Remove Spots & Swirls

If your water spots or swirl marks are severe, I recommend using a product like Sonus Restore (SFX-1) to knock them down. Follow the application of SFX-1 (or any other cutting polish) with a gloss-enhancing polish, such as Sonus Enhance (SFX-2). In all cases, use a good foam applicator pad to apply compounds and polishes. Use the least abrasive pad necessary to get the job done. For hand polishing, the Sonus SFX Professional Applicator work very well.

OXIDATION
Left unprotected and out in the elements, your car's paint will quickly oxidize. You won't notice the damage over a period of a month or two, but it's there. After a year in the elements without protection, your paint will be noticeably dull and rough.

Paint oxidation is not the kiss of death. Light oxidation is easily removed through regular paint cleaning and polishing. Moderate oxidation can also be repaired, but may require a cutting polish, like Sonus SFX-1 Restore. Heavy oxidation, recognizable by a completely dull, chalky surface, is likely beyond complete restoration. However, even heavily oxidized paint can be polished to bring back shine.


Not long ago I saw my neighbor washing her Mazda Miata. I looked at the trunk and was horrified to see the level of oxidation that had set in since I had last looked at her car. As you can see, the paint was very dull (not yet chalky) and covered with water spot stains. I invited her over to my place for a quick lesson in polishing.


I pulled a old can of polish and an applicator off the shelf, and spent about five minutes polishing away the oxidation on the trunk lid. I then switched to a foam applicator for a second pass. The result is what you see above. The heavy polish I used removed all of the stains, water spots and oxidation. A quick hand buffing with Klasse All-In-One restored full shine and brought back some depth.

As with any form of paint damage, use the least abrasive polish necessary to get results. Even moderate paint oxidation causes paint thinning. As you polish, the oxidized (dead) paint is quickly removed.

One question that frequently appears in my e-mail is, "My car's clearcoat is flaking off. How do I repair it?" Unfortunately, the only answer is to repaint the damaged body panels. Once a clearcoat fails due to heavy oxidation, it cannot be restored by polishing. In this regard, solid body paints are far more resilient.
Old 01-17-07, 08:52 PM
  #20  
lexudv
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Originally Posted by gyung
Meguiar's near the John Wayne airport in Irvine, CA, and they offer free classes to teach you how to use their products. Go figure. If I remember correctly it's every Wednesday from like 5pm to 8pm or something. Don't take my word for it, but last time I went there and spoke with a guy that had a Obsidian IS350 like me =)

If your close, you might want to look up their website and give them a call to see if you can get any more details.
Yeah I work about 3 miles away from there. I was going to this weekend, but can't make it. I will definetely take that class. Since this is the first time I wanted to get it done by a professional, but I will have to think about it.
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