View Poll Results: are you running synthetic or a synthetic blend?
full synthetic
238
59.95%
synthetic blend
19
4.79%
dinosaur oil
39
9.82%
whatever the dealer fills it with
101
25.44%
Voters: 397. You may not vote on this poll
how many are running full sythetic or a synthetic blend?
06-13-07, 09:29 AM
#61
Driver
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Brunei
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the only available option in my country for 5/30 is either Conoco or Castrol. Mobil 1 is rated 5/50 and currently am using it. I read somewhere on this forum that its not good to use this.Dealer uses Shell Helix Ultra 5/40
If anyone can give their opinions on this:
Conoco or Castrol, which is better?
Advisable to go on with Mobil1 eventho diferrent ratings?
If these were the only options u guys were given, which brand and rating would u guys go for.......
If anyone can give their opinions on this:
Conoco or Castrol, which is better?
Advisable to go on with Mobil1 eventho diferrent ratings?
If these were the only options u guys were given, which brand and rating would u guys go for.......
06-13-07, 10:40 AM
#63
JM Lexus in South Florida uses synthetic blend. Regardless of what the dealer uses, our rule of thumb is to use either dino or synthetic blend for the first 15k miles or so, then switch over to full synthetic Mobil 1. It probably doesn't even matter as long as the oil is changed regularly, but from what I've read, dino or blend for the first 10k to 20k allows the internals to set in then the switch to full synthetic protects the engine. Just my .02
As far as oil changes, I like to do the very first oil change at 1200-1500 miles. Our IS will be using synthetic when it is due for an oil change as well. I personally like Castro or Mobil 1. I use Castrol on the BMW because that is what factory fill is ($4.5x/quart at the dealer), not to mention they don't sell the same weight Castrol here in the States. I will probably use Mobil 1 on the Lexus because I believe Costco carries the correct weight for a decent price.
Regarding the Mann filter, FWIW they also make the OEM BMW Oil Filter.
Last edited by OC 335d; 06-13-07 at 10:43 AM.
06-13-07, 11:01 AM
#64
Remember that many synthetic oils are NOT really PURE synthetic (examples are Mobil 1 and Castrol). A complaint was filed years ago and it was decided that group III oils (petroleum based) could be used in synthetic oil’s base stock and still can be labeled synthetic. Mobil 1’s oils are still excellent oil and show very good UOAs (Used Oil Analysis). I use Amsoil 0w-20 (New), which is pure synthetic (group IV and V base stock). To answer the question about the differences between Dino and (Pure) synthetic oils;
Even though petroleum refining is an advanced science, small amounts of contaminants, such as sulfur and reactive hydrocarbons cannot be completely removed from petroleum, and end up in motor oil base stocks. Synthetics base stock are designed in a lab and therefore do not contain these contaminants. So right from the start petroleum oil is contaminated.
Petroleum oil molecules are of varying sizes. So, as a petroleum oil heats up, the smaller molecules begin to burn off. Deposits and sludge are left behind to coat the inside of your engine. In addition, as smaller particles burn off, the larger, heavier molecules are all that is left to protect the engine. Unfortunately, these larger particles do not flow nearly as well and tend to blanket the components of your engine which only exacerbates the heat problem as friction builds-up. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, because they are not purified, but rather designed within a lab for lubrication purposes, are comprised of molecules of uniform size and shape. Therefore, even if a synthetic oil does burn a little, the remaining oil has the same chemical characteristics that it had before the burn off. There are no smaller molecules to burn-off and no heavier molecules to leave behind. Bottom line is synthetics contain almost no contaminants compared to petroleum oils since they are not a refined product. As a result, if oil burn-off does occur, there are few, if any, contaminants left behind to leave sludge and deposits on engine surfaces.
Petroleum oils also contain paraffins (wax), they tend to thicken up considerably in cold temperatures. Additives are used to help keep the oil from thickening too much due to these waxy contaminants. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, contain no paraffins. Therefore, they need no additive to help with cold temperature operation. Moreover, even without the additives, synthetics flow at far lower temperatures than petroleum oils. Remember additives cause contamination!
Since synthetics contain no additives to aid with cold temperature flow, synthetics maintain their cold temperature flow characteristics for a long period of time. Additive depletion is not a factor in the cold temperature flow of synthetic oils. Synthetics do not thicken due to burn-off. So, this is not a factor in cold temperature flow either. Of course, the obvious result is that you don't need to change synthetic oil as often to regain adequate cold temperature flow.
Water causes acids to be created within the oil and corrosion will begin within your engine. So, there are additives in the oil which are designed to combat these acids. Synthetics contain higher quality and a higher quantity of these additives in order to properly neutralize these acids for a longer period of time. These additives do deplete over time, but it takes longer with synthetic oils than with petroleum oils.
Here's a couple important facts; Additives are also used to keep oil contamination in check and to keep it from damaging your engine. These additives keep potentially wear causing contaminants suspended and contained in your oil so they don't cause excessive wear or deposit build-up within your engine before your filter can remove them. Synthetics have higher additive treat rates than petroleum oils (in addition to using higher quality, more expensive, additives), so they can perform this contaminant control function for a much longer period of time than a petroleum oil can.
To control acids the Total Base Number (TBN) describes the acid neutralization ability of an oil, with higher TBN oils providing longer lasting acid neutralization. Synthetics nearly always have higher TBN values than petroleum oils do. The result: longer and better acid neutralization capability allowing for extended drain use.
Every single aspect (which there are many) of what oil provides for your engine is better in synthetic oil, including how long you can use the oil before contamination is a problem. The most important difference is the pour rate. This one aspect is the biggest contributor to engine ware. This is how long it takes the oil to reach vital parts of the engine during start-up (especially when cold). You wouldn’t believe the difference between dino and synthetic. The same difference in this one aspect is typical of ALL the other aspects in dino and synthetic.
Koz
Even though petroleum refining is an advanced science, small amounts of contaminants, such as sulfur and reactive hydrocarbons cannot be completely removed from petroleum, and end up in motor oil base stocks. Synthetics base stock are designed in a lab and therefore do not contain these contaminants. So right from the start petroleum oil is contaminated.
Petroleum oil molecules are of varying sizes. So, as a petroleum oil heats up, the smaller molecules begin to burn off. Deposits and sludge are left behind to coat the inside of your engine. In addition, as smaller particles burn off, the larger, heavier molecules are all that is left to protect the engine. Unfortunately, these larger particles do not flow nearly as well and tend to blanket the components of your engine which only exacerbates the heat problem as friction builds-up. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, because they are not purified, but rather designed within a lab for lubrication purposes, are comprised of molecules of uniform size and shape. Therefore, even if a synthetic oil does burn a little, the remaining oil has the same chemical characteristics that it had before the burn off. There are no smaller molecules to burn-off and no heavier molecules to leave behind. Bottom line is synthetics contain almost no contaminants compared to petroleum oils since they are not a refined product. As a result, if oil burn-off does occur, there are few, if any, contaminants left behind to leave sludge and deposits on engine surfaces.
Petroleum oils also contain paraffins (wax), they tend to thicken up considerably in cold temperatures. Additives are used to help keep the oil from thickening too much due to these waxy contaminants. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, contain no paraffins. Therefore, they need no additive to help with cold temperature operation. Moreover, even without the additives, synthetics flow at far lower temperatures than petroleum oils. Remember additives cause contamination!
Since synthetics contain no additives to aid with cold temperature flow, synthetics maintain their cold temperature flow characteristics for a long period of time. Additive depletion is not a factor in the cold temperature flow of synthetic oils. Synthetics do not thicken due to burn-off. So, this is not a factor in cold temperature flow either. Of course, the obvious result is that you don't need to change synthetic oil as often to regain adequate cold temperature flow.
Water causes acids to be created within the oil and corrosion will begin within your engine. So, there are additives in the oil which are designed to combat these acids. Synthetics contain higher quality and a higher quantity of these additives in order to properly neutralize these acids for a longer period of time. These additives do deplete over time, but it takes longer with synthetic oils than with petroleum oils.
Here's a couple important facts; Additives are also used to keep oil contamination in check and to keep it from damaging your engine. These additives keep potentially wear causing contaminants suspended and contained in your oil so they don't cause excessive wear or deposit build-up within your engine before your filter can remove them. Synthetics have higher additive treat rates than petroleum oils (in addition to using higher quality, more expensive, additives), so they can perform this contaminant control function for a much longer period of time than a petroleum oil can.
To control acids the Total Base Number (TBN) describes the acid neutralization ability of an oil, with higher TBN oils providing longer lasting acid neutralization. Synthetics nearly always have higher TBN values than petroleum oils do. The result: longer and better acid neutralization capability allowing for extended drain use.
Every single aspect (which there are many) of what oil provides for your engine is better in synthetic oil, including how long you can use the oil before contamination is a problem. The most important difference is the pour rate. This one aspect is the biggest contributor to engine ware. This is how long it takes the oil to reach vital parts of the engine during start-up (especially when cold). You wouldn’t believe the difference between dino and synthetic. The same difference in this one aspect is typical of ALL the other aspects in dino and synthetic.
Koz
Last edited by Koz; 11-13-07 at 05:56 AM.
06-13-07, 01:51 PM
#66
My thought is that in turbo charged cars you want to use synthetic as the turbo runs hot and you want to avoid oil "coking" the bearings.
Engines I have fed with mobil 1 also looks VERY clean inside (could only be a good thing)... I am debating though for a Lexus what oil to use, castro makes pretty good dino oil. And Mobil 1 @ $5+ a qt and 6.7 qt cost alot. I don't drive the IS like a stole it so I think the dino oil will be plenty good, unless someone here can feel they get better MPG out of synthetic.
BTW, have you guys owned a high milege car or Lexus before? When the car start to consume noticable amount of oil, I wouldn't drive it for 5000 miles without checking oil level! For example, I had an old 22RE engine consume about 1/2 qt every 2000-3000 miles. Still not the grounds for immediate rebuild even though it was 200K+ miles and 24 years old. Anyways I think Lexus has not been around for that long yet, but toyota has.
Using sythetic oil when the engine is quite old, is costly and also due to sythetic oil being thinner than the same grade of it's dino oil counter part, so it burns more. For example 10W30 castrol feels a little thick, and 10W30 mobil 1 (green cap) feels almost like water. I realise most people who own Lexus usually trade for a newer car every few years. Anyone planning to keep the IS 10+ years or more?
Engines I have fed with mobil 1 also looks VERY clean inside (could only be a good thing)... I am debating though for a Lexus what oil to use, castro makes pretty good dino oil. And Mobil 1 @ $5+ a qt and 6.7 qt cost alot. I don't drive the IS like a stole it so I think the dino oil will be plenty good, unless someone here can feel they get better MPG out of synthetic.
BTW, have you guys owned a high milege car or Lexus before? When the car start to consume noticable amount of oil, I wouldn't drive it for 5000 miles without checking oil level! For example, I had an old 22RE engine consume about 1/2 qt every 2000-3000 miles. Still not the grounds for immediate rebuild even though it was 200K+ miles and 24 years old. Anyways I think Lexus has not been around for that long yet, but toyota has.
Using sythetic oil when the engine is quite old, is costly and also due to sythetic oil being thinner than the same grade of it's dino oil counter part, so it burns more. For example 10W30 castrol feels a little thick, and 10W30 mobil 1 (green cap) feels almost like water. I realise most people who own Lexus usually trade for a newer car every few years. Anyone planning to keep the IS 10+ years or more?
06-20-07, 12:41 AM
#67
Lexus Fanatic
Koz... i bet you cut n pasted that from somewhere right? there is not one spelling mistake in that. 
*edit* btw, i use the purple stuff
also, i plan on keeping mine till i die.
*edit* btw, i use the purple stuff
also, i plan on keeping mine till i die.
Last edited by llamaboiz; 06-20-07 at 12:47 AM.
06-20-07, 04:41 AM
#68
06-20-07, 08:27 AM
#69
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
My thought is that in turbo charged cars you want to use synthetic as the turbo runs hot and you want to avoid oil "coking" the bearings.
Engines I have fed with mobil 1 also looks VERY clean inside (could only be a good thing)... I am debating though for a Lexus what oil to use, castro makes pretty good dino oil. And Mobil 1 @ $5+ a qt and 6.7 qt cost alot. I don't drive the IS like a stole it so I think the dino oil will be plenty good, unless someone here can feel they get better MPG out of synthetic.
BTW, have you guys owned a high milege car or Lexus before? When the car start to consume noticable amount of oil, I wouldn't drive it for 5000 miles without checking oil level! For example, I had an old 22RE engine consume about 1/2 qt every 2000-3000 miles. Still not the grounds for immediate rebuild even though it was 200K+ miles and 24 years old. Anyways I think Lexus has not been around for that long yet, but toyota has.
Using sythetic oil when the engine is quite old, is costly and also due to sythetic oil being thinner than the same grade of it's dino oil counter part, so it burns more. For example 10W30 castrol feels a little thick, and 10W30 mobil 1 (green cap) feels almost like water. I realise most people who own Lexus usually trade for a newer car every few years. Anyone planning to keep the IS 10+ years or more?
Engines I have fed with mobil 1 also looks VERY clean inside (could only be a good thing)... I am debating though for a Lexus what oil to use, castro makes pretty good dino oil. And Mobil 1 @ $5+ a qt and 6.7 qt cost alot. I don't drive the IS like a stole it so I think the dino oil will be plenty good, unless someone here can feel they get better MPG out of synthetic.
BTW, have you guys owned a high milege car or Lexus before? When the car start to consume noticable amount of oil, I wouldn't drive it for 5000 miles without checking oil level! For example, I had an old 22RE engine consume about 1/2 qt every 2000-3000 miles. Still not the grounds for immediate rebuild even though it was 200K+ miles and 24 years old. Anyways I think Lexus has not been around for that long yet, but toyota has.
Using sythetic oil when the engine is quite old, is costly and also due to sythetic oil being thinner than the same grade of it's dino oil counter part, so it burns more. For example 10W30 castrol feels a little thick, and 10W30 mobil 1 (green cap) feels almost like water. I realise most people who own Lexus usually trade for a newer car every few years. Anyone planning to keep the IS 10+ years or more?
A couple of things that are critically important: you cannot judge oil by its color, you cannot gauge it's viscosity without laboratory testing, and you cannot determine optimum oil change interval without laboratory grade testing.
I don't trade for a new car every few years. I have a 14 year old Supra in my garage that I have owned for 10 of the 14 years it's been on the road. I expect my Lexus (also a Toyota product) to last the same.
06-20-07, 12:08 PM
#70
I quietly took whatever the dealer gave me at the 5K service, but I'm going to use Mobile 1 5W-20 from the 10K change onwards.
I've heard stories about mechanics swapping out oil you bring them for cheaper oil... so I'm thinking I'm going to watch them change my oil, heh.
Can I really expect this oil to last 15K miles in my car, though?
I've heard stories about mechanics swapping out oil you bring them for cheaper oil... so I'm thinking I'm going to watch them change my oil, heh.
Can I really expect this oil to last 15K miles in my car, though?
Last edited by RocketGuy3; 06-20-07 at 12:19 PM.
06-20-07, 12:16 PM
#71
06-20-07, 01:38 PM
#73
Lexus Fanatic
Thing is... you folks do know that if you change oil every 3k miles like in the old days, even the cheepest chevron plain ole 30 weight is fine for a daily driver.
06-20-07, 03:03 PM
#74
This past Saturday I finally got off my rear and changed my own oil. I am using Mobil 1, 5-30. While under the car I noticed that the dealership probably used a large pair of channel lock pliers to access the oil filter. Lovely gouges! They also placed the lift pads where they DO NOT GO and dented in the floor pan.
Man oh man. I'm so glad to be doing all my own oil changes now. At my age I should have known better.
06-20-07, 03:20 PM
#75
Just looked at the receipt for the above referenced oil change. Receipt/work order said Castrol 5-30. In any event the car ran just fine.
This past Saturday I finally got off my rear and changed my own oil. I am using Mobil 1, 5-30. While under the car I noticed that the dealership probably used a large pair of channel lock pliers to access the oil filter. Lovely gouges! They also placed the lift pads where they DO NOT GO and dented in the floor pan. Man oh man. I'm so glad to be doing all my own oil changes now. At my age I should have known better.
This past Saturday I finally got off my rear and changed my own oil. I am using Mobil 1, 5-30. While under the car I noticed that the dealership probably used a large pair of channel lock pliers to access the oil filter. Lovely gouges! They also placed the lift pads where they DO NOT GO and dented in the floor pan.
Man oh man. I'm so glad to be doing all my own oil changes now. At my age I should have known better.