IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models
View Poll Results: POLL TIME!!! Lower your IS or leave it alone
Leave her stock
38
35.19%
Lower about an inch or so
34
31.48%
Over 1.2 inches or so
9
8.33%
COILOVERS ftw!!!!
27
25.00%
Voters: 108. You may not vote on this poll

to lower or not to lower your IS?

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Old 01-27-07, 07:33 PM
  #31  
combfilter
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well I thought the stock of my is was fine till one day javylsu was parked next to me. The front is way to high. I hate all those rice burner cars that are all lowed, but the Eibachs do it just 1" . To me it's perfect. It took out some of the gap that was in the front, plus made my ride a tad more sporty. I was so worried when I first did it, and now i freaking love the way it looks and feels.

i have 2 threads on here with before and after pics if you are still up in the air. My after pics were done right after too. It settled even more and I love it.

like someone said. Try the springs and see how you like it. If you don't then it's only 300 down the drain. coilovers are dope but expensive. I would rather use that money for new shoes.
Old 01-27-07, 08:37 PM
  #32  
Phillip31
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I lowered my AWD with Tanabe NF210's but havent gotten an alignment yet....should i bring my car to a Lexus dealership to get an alignment or an alignment shop?
Old 01-27-07, 08:50 PM
  #33  
bagwell
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Originally Posted by Phillip31
I lowered my AWD with Tanabe NF210's but havent gotten an alignment yet....should i bring my car to a Lexus dealership to get an alignment or an alignment shop?
very good question...let's see some responses...I would think all the alignment specs would change....right?
Old 01-28-07, 01:37 PM
  #34  
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Yes, they will. Any car needs an alignment after lowering. Give it about 500 miles for the springs to settle, then get it realigned.
Old 01-28-07, 02:12 PM
  #35  
Phillip31
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Yes, they will. Any car needs an alignment after lowering. Give it about 500 miles for the springs to settle, then get it realigned.
But the question is that will bringing in my lowered car to a Lexus dealership to get an alignment be good enough or do i need to bring it in to a custom alignment shop?
Old 01-28-07, 02:48 PM
  #36  
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Unless you have an AWD, they can only adjust toe. It doesn't matter where you take it.
Old 01-28-07, 08:46 PM
  #37  
CHAPIN33
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Unless you have an AWD, they can only adjust toe. It doesn't matter where you take it.
im sorry i dont know to much about this matters, can you explain me what do you mean with "unless you have an AWD" does tjis mean that AWD are ok to take them to any shop?

Thank you!
Old 01-28-07, 09:34 PM
  #38  
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You can take your IS to any shop you want, but I'd recommend taking it to one that at least has people who've been through the T-TEN stuff (that means dealerships or toyota-specialty shops) or a reputable custom shop that's got a nice alignment table and works on imports.

Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Camber, caster, and toe all change as the car is raised and lowered.
Not when you design them all not to ...
Old 01-28-07, 10:38 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Irishman06
Not when you design them all not to ...
Yeah, but you do want them to. Camber gain under compression to counter roll is one of the basics. It's also pretty damned difficult to make a suspension that doesn't have dynamic alignment changes. The suspension on the IS is even designed to enhance understeer while braking by using the suspension bushing compliance. Check it out in the New Car Features...
Old 01-28-07, 10:41 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by CHAPIN33
im sorry i dont know to much about this matters, can you explain me what do you mean with "unless you have an AWD" does tjis mean that AWD are ok to take them to any shop?

Thank you!
AWD should be taken to a better shop with better techs because it is possible to adjust the camber on the AWD, and a good tech will know how to set it up right. FWIW, I got to a guy who uses manual tools, not the computer racks, because he understands how to set the car for me and my driving style. He recently got a computerised rack, but still uses the manual tools for certain cars and customers (like me) who are really picky about how the car drives and the tires wear as a result of our driving.
Old 02-02-07, 10:53 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
AWD should be taken to a better shop with better techs because it is possible to adjust the camber on the AWD, and a good tech will know how to set it up right. FWIW, I got to a guy who uses manual tools, not the computer racks, because he understands how to set the car for me and my driving style. He recently got a computerised rack, but still uses the manual tools for certain cars and customers (like me) who are really picky about how the car drives and the tires wear as a result of our driving.
I agree with you. I have an alignment tech friend who works only on alignment for 15+ years, and he never agreed with setting in computerized alignment rack. I guess there is no machine can do a better alignment when dealing with personal preferences and moded vehicles.
Old 02-04-07, 08:16 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by racinghart
i am torn between lowering or not. i know that if i go with certain springs it would barely be noticeable and i heard sometimes it doesnt sacrifice ride quality... or i could be wrong and i will sacrifice ride quality... i feel like if i get an exhaust, i would need to lower it and go with a body kit of some sort just to complete the deal... anyone here lower without getting aftermarket rims, kits, etc. and likes to keep it that way?
Anytime you get shorter springs, the spring rates must go up because there are less coils that is required to support the car. And anytime you increase spring rates, it decreases ride comfort because the stiffer springs will transfer feedback to the driver, including any road imperfections.

Your aim is to find a lowering spring that has a lower spring rate so that the difference in ride quality isn't too significant. This often means getting a lowering spring that doesn't go beyond an 1-inch drop. Beyond that you will start to suffer a small decrease in ride quality.

If you get larger wheels than the stock 17 or 18, with the decreased sidewall it will make your fender gap appear much larger than it is. It often goes without saying that if you get wheels (for looks purpose) you will probably need to lower the car to reduce the fender gap for the complete look.

You can never modify car in isolation, it's a bug. Once you touch the wheels, you touch the suspension, then body kit, then the engine. etc...

In the end it's a compromise. You will never be able to have the same factory comfortable ride after modding your car. So it's up to you how much you wanna sacrifice for the performance/looks you seek.

good luck with your decision!
Old 02-04-07, 10:11 AM
  #43  
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Lower it. It looks much better.
Old 02-05-07, 02:24 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by neova
...Your aim is to find a lowering spring that has a lower spring rate so that the difference in ride quality isn't too significant. This often means getting a lowering spring that doesn't go beyond an 1-inch drop. Beyond that you will start to suffer a small decrease in ride quality...
A lowering spring with a rate similar to the OEM spring rate will also cause the car to roll more in turns and feel less settled. Spring rate must rise when the car is lowered because the roll couple increases as the suspension is lowered if you are using springs to lower the car.

The ideal solution to the problem is dropped spindles. Your car gets lower and you keep OEM ride quality. This is an extremely expensive solution to the problem but retains all the benefits of the stock suspension.
Old 02-06-07, 09:05 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by neova
Anytime you get shorter springs, the spring rates must go up because there are less coils that is required to support the car. And anytime you increase spring rates, it decreases ride comfort because the stiffer springs will transfer feedback to the driver, including any road imperfections.

Your aim is to find a lowering spring that has a lower spring rate so that the difference in ride quality isn't too significant. This often means getting a lowering spring that doesn't go beyond an 1-inch drop. Beyond that you will start to suffer a small decrease in ride quality.

If you get larger wheels than the stock 17 or 18, with the decreased sidewall it will make your fender gap appear much larger than it is. It often goes without saying that if you get wheels (for looks purpose) you will probably need to lower the car to reduce the fender gap for the complete look.

You can never modify car in isolation, it's a bug. Once you touch the wheels, you touch the suspension, then body kit, then the engine. etc...

In the end it's a compromise. You will never be able to have the same factory comfortable ride after modding your car. So it's up to you how much you wanna sacrifice for the performance/looks you seek.

good luck with your decision!
I couldnt have said it better myself Well explain IMO......also IMO, I like the stiffer suspension feel, whats a sports car with a Lincoln Towncar ride??
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