Batmobile

iTrader: (2)

for the free oil change at 5000 miles... do they change it with full synthetic or just synthetic?

PNice972

iTrader: (6)

neither, just regular motor oil

caymandive

iTrader: (2)

I'm indifferent to the matter and may try 5w20 one of these days, but the 5w30 Mobile One has treated me well so far.

Dabigman

EXACTLY. My dealer used 5w30, are some of you saying they just voided my engine warranty because they ignored the TSB? Of course not, it is only for them to squeeze .3 MPG more out of the engine.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The benefits of 5w-30 over 5w-20 are lower measured hp, lower fuel mileage (higher operating cost), and the happiness that what your dad told you about oil 20 years ago is still true.

Seriously - how many of you are going to keep your car past 150k miles? Or better still, how many extra dollars do you want to spend operating your car over the time you own it.

Think about the logic of this statement: "the manufacturers are doing this to eek out a few more mpg for CAFE." Will this net them some money somehow? Because engine failures, especially under warranty, will definitely cost them money. It doesn't make sense to me at all that they are doing this out of fear of a few tenths on their CAFE.

From a performance perspective, I want to run the very lightest oil I can without causing undue damage to my engine. It will run cooler from lower fluid drag. It will make more horsepower from lower fluid drag. To top it off, the manufacturer says I can run 5w-20 and still meet their specifications. I call it a total win for me.

If you are terribly worried about your engine's service life, ask yourself this:

1. Do you send your used oil for analysis every time you change it?

2. Do you run premium brand oils to ensure there will be no lubrication issues over the service life of your engine?

3. Are you concerned about spending more for gas and oil over the service life of the car (and unnecessarily adding to CO2 emissions, hazardous material recycling streams, etc.)? Or are you a "to hell with the planet, I want what I want and no one is going to tell me differently!" kind of person?

Sure, I drive a Supra, it's an emissions pig and a fuel hog compared to my IS even though it has its cats in still working order, and I definitely want what I want. But not enough to say I have a right to spoil my children's planet before they have a chance to speak for themselves. Of course we are creating a whole new industry for the next few generations cleaning up the mess we (and our forefathers) made. Maybe it all balances out in the end?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Nobody said you voided your warranty. Ever.

gsrthomas

iTrader: (1)

I'll stick with 5w-30. My other car required 5w-30. I even sometimes used 10w-40. Everything is perfectly fine.

Koz

Here's the deal, you could use any grade from 0w-20 (5w-20 dino) to 0w-30 (5/10w-30 dino).

Remember that 80% of engine wear occurs within the first seconds of startup (circulation time), regardless of temperature. So, the better flow/pour rate, the better the protection (less wear). The 0w20/30 weight oils (pure synthetic) will also provide the widest range of protection against thermal breakdown. To sum it up, if you want the best possible protection, use the 0w-20 and 0w-30 in extreamly hot climates. The other advantage of using the pure synthetic is that you can extend the OCI (oil change intervals). You should be able to safely extend the OCI to 10K miles or 1 year (with a used oil analysis - UOA).

The UOA would also provide proof that the 0w weight and the extended OCI would still be providing safe protection, if a warranty issue came up. (which would be highly unlikely)

Koz

tytgs300

getting back to the original question about 100F
isn't supposed to be ?

5w for winter
10w for summer

bagwell

not anymore I guess.

heck I remember Honda putting 20w50 in my old CRX in the summer.

Bichon

Absolutely. I spoke with (and corresponded via email) with a few people at Lexus about this, and was told that they are recommending 5W-20 for better mileage and cold start performance, but that 5W-30 is a perfectly acceptable alternative.

linh811

You guys are pretty darn **** about a car that you'll likely trade in/get rid of LONG before any oil related issues come up....

My previous car was a 328i, the BMW recommended oil change interval was 30 THOUSAND MILES.......

You guys planning to drive the doors off these cars or what?

socalJD

Here's a link for those who care to understand CAFE: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/cafe/overview.htm

Yes, manufacturers ARE concerned about a few 1/10's on their CAFE, it can mean the difference b/w complying or owing a few million $ in penalties. Ever wonder why european cars cost so much, most european car mfrs fail to comply with CAFE standards, choosing instead to pay the penalties which undoubtedly is passed on to consumers . . .

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

FWIW, the Blackstone UOA of my factory fill oil said that the oil appeared to be 5W-20, and it tested fine after 5K miles with plenty hot days (in Dallas).

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I'm not buying it. I realise how competitive the industry is, but the site says the worst penalties have been $20M. That's barely a pimple to Toyota. They probably wasted that much with their failed TIS revamp this year. If their engine warranty failure rate doubled as a result of this recommendation, they'd be out a whole lot more money.