newr

Wolverine is right. This design is very similar to other makes and models. If you do not need to resurface the rotors or replace the rotors, you DO NOT need to remove the calipers. This whole thing should not take more than 15-20 minutes per side.

I do not recommend openning the bleeder screw because the chance of air getting into the system. Just get a rag and put around the reservoir incase it overflows. It won't overflow if you never top off. There is nothing wrong with "forcing" the fluid back. Everytime you step and release on the brake pedal, it does the same thing.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Hawk says Q2 -07 in the email response I got from them. I still have more than 6mm of pad left with 17.5k on my car now.

And Wolverine is dead on about not needing to pull the caliper. I have done my Supra brakes a number of times, and the IS brakes are nothing special. I also use a C-clamp to retract the pistons because I can progressively retract them at any speed I like (and C-clamps are really cheap.) But pry bars work fine too.

Keep in mind, if you are changing pad compound you need to (at the very least) scuff the rotors with something like a red Scotchbrite pad. If you are really ****, have them centerless ground. If you are just putting another set of the same compound in, there is nothing you need to do but put in new pads.

wolverine

iTrader: (9)

omg thank you. ill do another DIY when its time for me to do brakes.

GreyHound

iTrader: (1)

I hope the moderators use these pics for a sticky. It's just like my Montero. I usually take the cap off the master cylinder reservoir. If you don't add any fluid, none to over flow when you push the pistons back in. yeah if you don't have warped rotors, turning them is just waste of rotor. Just scuff with the scotchbrite. Thanks for the info.

Dan SS

Has anyone actually gone to a Lexus dealer to complain about the dust and gotten free replacements? Are the replacements the so called 'better' pad?

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

You can read all about it here in the 2IS Suspension and Brakes forum. They aren't "better" pads, they are just a less agressive compound.

bturnbaugh

I agree with the complete install, very standard step by step with most break pad change. Question: When pushing the pistions back to make room for the new pads did you have break fluid over flow?

newr

The posts above already answered your question. If you never top it off, it won't overflow.

murph550

yea, as someone else stated brakes are brakes, ive done brake jobs on many cars, and have never had to remove the calipers so I don't see where your comin from.

Also a tip for others when doin any brake job be careful not to damnage the seals around the pistons when you are pushing themback into the cylinder. Also some cars have a brake pad sensor, and if you just yank the pads out sometimes you can break the wires. just my 2 cents.

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

FWIW, there are many cars that must have their calipers removed to replace the pads. All of my Hondas and Acuras required the rear calipers to be removed, and the front calipers had to be unbolted on one side, then rotated up off the pads.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

True, some do. I haven't seen a Toyota product with them yet though.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

These would be the inferior designs with pins that allow them to slide to center themselves. If the caliper has pistons on both sides (as it should!), you never have to remove the caliper to change the pads.

Ramon

Yep, my old Pontiac Grand Prix had to have the caliper remvoed to replace the pads.

jimmyjazz

The front PBR's on non C6Z06 Vette's and many other vehicles including C4's and C5's and the two base level Baer systems are all two piston. I'm not arguing the inferior classification just that some decent setups are still two piston.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Two piston doesn't mean it isn't a decent caliper. If they put the two pistons on one side, then yes, it is definitely an inferior design. Calipers on sliding pins are not high performance.