DIY Front Brakes for IS350
#31
. You should also be opening the bleeder screw on the brake calipers before pushing the piston, this will lessen the force required to push the pistons in and also you shouldn't force the fluid backwards through the system, you could overflow the master cylinder reservoir or possibly damage the internal seals of the braking components, although the later is not likely it is still possible.
#32
Hawk says Q2 -07 in the email response I got from them. I still have more than 6mm of pad left with 17.5k on my car now.
And Wolverine is dead on about not needing to pull the caliper. I have done my Supra brakes a number of times, and the IS brakes are nothing special. I also use a C-clamp to retract the pistons because I can progressively retract them at any speed I like (and C-clamps are really cheap.) But pry bars work fine too.
Keep in mind, if you are changing pad compound you need to (at the very least) scuff the rotors with something like a red Scotchbrite pad. If you are really ****, have them centerless ground. If you are just putting another set of the same compound in, there is nothing you need to do but put in new pads.
And Wolverine is dead on about not needing to pull the caliper. I have done my Supra brakes a number of times, and the IS brakes are nothing special. I also use a C-clamp to retract the pistons because I can progressively retract them at any speed I like (and C-clamps are really cheap.) But pry bars work fine too.
Keep in mind, if you are changing pad compound you need to (at the very least) scuff the rotors with something like a red Scotchbrite pad. If you are really ****, have them centerless ground. If you are just putting another set of the same compound in, there is nothing you need to do but put in new pads.
#33
#34
Great pics Lexo350
I hope the moderators use these pics for a sticky. It's just like my Montero. I usually take the cap off the master cylinder reservoir. If you don't add any fluid, none to over flow when you push the pistons back in. yeah if you don't have warped rotors, turning them is just waste of rotor. Just scuff with the scotchbrite. Thanks for the info.
#38
The posts above already answered your question. If you never top it off, it won't overflow.
#39
Also a tip for others when doin any brake job be careful not to damnage the seals around the pistons when you are pushing themback into the cylinder. Also some cars have a brake pad sensor, and if you just yank the pads out sometimes you can break the wires. just my 2 cents.
#40
yea, as someone else stated brakes are brakes, ive done brake jobs on many cars, and have never had to remove the calipers so I don't see where your comin from.
Also a tip for others when doin any brake job be careful not to damnage the seals around the pistons when you are pushing themback into the cylinder. Also some cars have a brake pad sensor, and if you just yank the pads out sometimes you can break the wires. just my 2 cents.
Also a tip for others when doin any brake job be careful not to damnage the seals around the pistons when you are pushing themback into the cylinder. Also some cars have a brake pad sensor, and if you just yank the pads out sometimes you can break the wires. just my 2 cents.
#41
#42
These would be the inferior designs with pins that allow them to slide to center themselves. If the caliper has pistons on both sides (as it should!), you never have to remove the caliper to change the pads.
#43
Yep, my old Pontiac Grand Prix had to have the caliper remvoed to replace the pads.
#44
The front PBR's on non C6Z06 Vette's and many other vehicles including C4's and C5's and the two base level Baer systems are all two piston. I'm not arguing the inferior classification just that some decent setups are still two piston.
#45
Two piston doesn't mean it isn't a decent caliper. If they put the two pistons on one side, then yes, it is definitely an inferior design. Calipers on sliding pins are not high performance.