IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

IS owners with ML.....Did you sub upgrade work?

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Old 04-14-07, 03:59 PM
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unit74
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Default IS owners with ML.....Did you sub upgrade work?

I installed a 500w amp and a 10" sub and everything works "As designed" but the sound is horrible in the car. Very little base is getting into the passenger area and the sound is dull and flat. The OE ML sub was removed as well. Dare I say the stock sub sounded better....?

So what did you 2IS owners do to make it work? I thought that maybe removing some of the metal between the trunk and rear seat might help....... Or maybe I need another sub or a different box? I think the trunk is just way too tight to let anything out.

If you have links to other threads, I'd appreciate those as well. I poked around the search a little but nothing specific as this came up.
Old 04-14-07, 05:07 PM
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IRCRomeo
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Hmm... after reading about a lot of rattles and now seeing you're thread, wouldn't having a loud sub make the rattles 10x worse?
Old 04-14-07, 05:18 PM
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Julez
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I was also looking into getting a sub for my car, but would that mean I'd have to take out the ML one. I've seen most people put the sub in their trunk, so what do they do with the oem sub?
Old 04-14-07, 05:40 PM
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unit74
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Most take it out....
Old 04-14-07, 06:01 PM
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Cleric
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Which wires did you tap into to get the audio signal to your amp? Are you using a line output converter?

If you are only taping into the wires that connect to the ML sub the signal going to your amp will be bandpassed to a limited frequency range selected for the stock sub. If you were to tab into the sub wiring and front channel signal then the range of sound going to your sub will be wider and sound better.

Also I would recommend opening the pass thru door in the seat which helps the sub be heard a little better.

Even if your amp accepts a high level input, I would still recommend using a seperate line output converter.
Old 04-14-07, 09:29 PM
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unit74
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ML has a feature that when you turn up the volume, the low end cut of goes up till it damn near cuts off the sub to prevent it from blowing.

I tapped off the stock sub outs into the high in on the amp...... Line converter or JL Cleansweep (or equiv) is going to be my next step.

I did drop the snow ski armrest and it helps a fraction, but not what it needs to be. basically, there is a 8x12 hole to get sound through, the rest is sheet metal.

Just suxs that I have $700 in gear that right now completely blows chunks. Kinda like that guy who's dealer did the aftermarket park assist and F-ed up his car......very disappointing.
Old 04-15-07, 12:58 PM
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Cleric
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Try using a LOC because the signal from the stock amp is probably too much for your aftermarket amp to reduce. I know your setup can eventually sound good to you. I have a 300 watt MTX amp running an 8" sealed enclosure and it sounds really good and hits nice and smooth, so I know a 500watt with 10" sub should sound great if everything was installed correctly with quality components.

The MTX amp I am running does accept a hi level input, but without a line output converter it sounded like crap which I am sort of thinking is happening to you. If you are only going to pull from the stock sub channel then I would just buy this:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AC+SNI-35.html
or
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TRUNK-LOC.html

Once I installed the PAC Trunk-loc and set the gains on the amp and loc accordingly the sound vasty improved. Or as you stated before you can always use the JL Cleansweep or similar and get great results with more functionality.

Last edited by Cleric; 04-15-07 at 01:09 PM.
Old 04-15-07, 01:38 PM
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unit74
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The question is though.........


Will the line converter solve the ML progressive Freq cut off issue? if it doesn't, I'll have to tap off the rear door speakers and hope it's cut off isn't crazy high.
Old 04-15-07, 05:40 PM
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Cleric
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I have not noticed the progressive freq cut off you describe in my ML system when just using the signal from the stock sub.

Ideally you would want to pull the signal from the sub and front speakers to get a summed full range signal to your aftermarket amp. Something like this would be able to do that for you.

Last edited by Cleric; 04-15-07 at 05:47 PM.
Old 04-15-07, 09:32 PM
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unit74
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Originally Posted by Cleric
I have not noticed the progressive freq cut off you describe in my ML system when just using the signal from the stock sub.

.
Are you running the converter? That would solve the cut off. I ran just a strait high level input and the louder I turn the volume, the flatter the bass will get. Above 45, there is little to no bass being produced from the sub, and it gets progressively flat.

I called the shop and I'm thinking the Cleansweep is going to be my next step.
Old 04-15-07, 09:59 PM
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tt061880
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do we have any full range speaker in our car? I think that would be the best source to get the signal to the sub.
Old 04-15-07, 10:04 PM
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tt061880
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nvm, i just looked at the Mark Levinson website and look like the best sources are coming from the two woofer from the front door and the stock sub.
Old 04-15-07, 11:54 PM
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mt1
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For me, the ML stock sub provides enough bass.
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