How to remove the rear deck OEM sub? (merged threads)
01-13-08 | 05:54 PM
#17
Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: TX
It's actually pretty simple. No pics...but these are the steps. There isn't much risk of breaking anything until you get to the back deck. Total time: less than one hour. This is derived from several posts here and from my personal experience. I installed a new sub / amp in the trunk a week ago.
1. Remove rear seat bottom. Lift the front lip on passenger / driver side and slide forward. The bunk will come out easily. The seat belt latches are attached to the frame under the bunk. Just pull them through the slits in the seat bottom.
2. Remove the (4) 12mm bolts securing the seat back. They are located along the bottom edge of the seat back. There are additional bolts along this edge not requiring removal. Just remove the ones holding down the u-shaped retainer bars from the seat back.
3. Remove the adjustable seat belt retainers. This step is optional, but eases lifting out the seat back. It also helps to have a stubby phillips-head screwdriver. Remove the seat belt retainers on the shoulders of the back seat cushion. These are secured by (3) screws ea.
4. Remove the seat back. As referenced in other posts, removing the seat back is easier with two people. I raised it by propping a knee under the bottom and lifting at the top where it joins near the back deck. You will be surprised how high you have to lift the back to get it to come loose. Just lift it up and pull the top forward. Move it to the side. You don’t have to take it completely out of the car.
5. Lift the back deck. To get to the factory sub, you only have to lift the front lip of the deck 3-4 in. Complete removal of the deck is not required. Start on one side, and slightly pry with a long flat-blade screwdriver. Get about 1/2in of separation and then shine a flashlight under the deck to spot the white retainer clips. They are recessed a few inches from the front lip of the deck. It's more effective to pry at or near the clip to pop it up and loose. If memory serves, there are only two or three of them.
6. Remove the Sub. A small air ratchet with a short 10mm socket comes in handy as you must remove (4) 10mm bolts around the sub. Prop up the lip of the deck, or hold it up and remove the four bolts. This will be tedious if you don’t have the right tools. To remove the sub wiring connector, I pushed the retainer clip in with a screwdriver while twisting to disconnect the plug. Simply raise the sub and pull it through the deck lip opening. Take care not to puncture it.
That's it. I hope this helps.
On a similar note, did anyone install an aftermarket sub and leave in their original factory sub? I left my passthrough open and I'm considering putting the factory sub back in to see if I can get back more mid bass.
1. Remove rear seat bottom. Lift the front lip on passenger / driver side and slide forward. The bunk will come out easily. The seat belt latches are attached to the frame under the bunk. Just pull them through the slits in the seat bottom.
2. Remove the (4) 12mm bolts securing the seat back. They are located along the bottom edge of the seat back. There are additional bolts along this edge not requiring removal. Just remove the ones holding down the u-shaped retainer bars from the seat back.
3. Remove the adjustable seat belt retainers. This step is optional, but eases lifting out the seat back. It also helps to have a stubby phillips-head screwdriver. Remove the seat belt retainers on the shoulders of the back seat cushion. These are secured by (3) screws ea.
4. Remove the seat back. As referenced in other posts, removing the seat back is easier with two people. I raised it by propping a knee under the bottom and lifting at the top where it joins near the back deck. You will be surprised how high you have to lift the back to get it to come loose. Just lift it up and pull the top forward. Move it to the side. You don’t have to take it completely out of the car.
5. Lift the back deck. To get to the factory sub, you only have to lift the front lip of the deck 3-4 in. Complete removal of the deck is not required. Start on one side, and slightly pry with a long flat-blade screwdriver. Get about 1/2in of separation and then shine a flashlight under the deck to spot the white retainer clips. They are recessed a few inches from the front lip of the deck. It's more effective to pry at or near the clip to pop it up and loose. If memory serves, there are only two or three of them.
6. Remove the Sub. A small air ratchet with a short 10mm socket comes in handy as you must remove (4) 10mm bolts around the sub. Prop up the lip of the deck, or hold it up and remove the four bolts. This will be tedious if you don’t have the right tools. To remove the sub wiring connector, I pushed the retainer clip in with a screwdriver while twisting to disconnect the plug. Simply raise the sub and pull it through the deck lip opening. Take care not to puncture it.
That's it. I hope this helps.
On a similar note, did anyone install an aftermarket sub and leave in their original factory sub? I left my passthrough open and I'm considering putting the factory sub back in to see if I can get back more mid bass.
01-13-08 | 05:57 PM
#18
Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: TX
01-15-08 | 11:56 AM
#20
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: CA
It's actually pretty simple. No pics...but these are the steps. There isn't much risk of breaking anything until you get to the back deck. Total time: less than one hour. This is derived from several posts here and from my personal experience. I installed a new sub / amp in the trunk a week ago.
1. Remove rear seat bottom. Lift the front lip on passenger / driver side and slide forward. The bunk will come out easily. The seat belt latches are attached to the frame under the bunk. Just pull them through the slits in the seat bottom.
2. Remove the (4) 12mm bolts securing the seat back. They are located along the bottom edge of the seat back. There are additional bolts along this edge not requiring removal. Just remove the ones holding down the u-shaped retainer bars from the seat back.
3. Remove the adjustable seat belt retainers. This step is optional, but eases lifting out the seat back. It also helps to have a stubby phillips-head screwdriver. Remove the seat belt retainers on the shoulders of the back seat cushion. These are secured by (3) screws ea.
4. Remove the seat back. As referenced in other posts, removing the seat back is easier with two people. I raised it by propping a knee under the bottom and lifting at the top where it joins near the back deck. You will be surprised how high you have to lift the back to get it to come loose. Just lift it up and pull the top forward. Move it to the side. You don’t have to take it completely out of the car.
5. Lift the back deck. To get to the factory sub, you only have to lift the front lip of the deck 3-4 in. Complete removal of the deck is not required. Start on one side, and slightly pry with a long flat-blade screwdriver. Get about 1/2in of separation and then shine a flashlight under the deck to spot the white retainer clips. They are recessed a few inches from the front lip of the deck. It's more effective to pry at or near the clip to pop it up and loose. If memory serves, there are only two or three of them.
6. Remove the Sub. A small air ratchet with a short 10mm socket comes in handy as you must remove (4) 10mm bolts around the sub. Prop up the lip of the deck, or hold it up and remove the four bolts. This will be tedious if you don’t have the right tools. To remove the sub wiring connector, I pushed the retainer clip in with a screwdriver while twisting to disconnect the plug. Simply raise the sub and pull it through the deck lip opening. Take care not to puncture it.
That's it. I hope this helps.
On a similar note, did anyone install an aftermarket sub and leave in their original factory sub? I left my passthrough open and I'm considering putting the factory sub back in to see if I can get back more mid bass.
1. Remove rear seat bottom. Lift the front lip on passenger / driver side and slide forward. The bunk will come out easily. The seat belt latches are attached to the frame under the bunk. Just pull them through the slits in the seat bottom.
2. Remove the (4) 12mm bolts securing the seat back. They are located along the bottom edge of the seat back. There are additional bolts along this edge not requiring removal. Just remove the ones holding down the u-shaped retainer bars from the seat back.
3. Remove the adjustable seat belt retainers. This step is optional, but eases lifting out the seat back. It also helps to have a stubby phillips-head screwdriver. Remove the seat belt retainers on the shoulders of the back seat cushion. These are secured by (3) screws ea.
4. Remove the seat back. As referenced in other posts, removing the seat back is easier with two people. I raised it by propping a knee under the bottom and lifting at the top where it joins near the back deck. You will be surprised how high you have to lift the back to get it to come loose. Just lift it up and pull the top forward. Move it to the side. You don’t have to take it completely out of the car.
5. Lift the back deck. To get to the factory sub, you only have to lift the front lip of the deck 3-4 in. Complete removal of the deck is not required. Start on one side, and slightly pry with a long flat-blade screwdriver. Get about 1/2in of separation and then shine a flashlight under the deck to spot the white retainer clips. They are recessed a few inches from the front lip of the deck. It's more effective to pry at or near the clip to pop it up and loose. If memory serves, there are only two or three of them.
6. Remove the Sub. A small air ratchet with a short 10mm socket comes in handy as you must remove (4) 10mm bolts around the sub. Prop up the lip of the deck, or hold it up and remove the four bolts. This will be tedious if you don’t have the right tools. To remove the sub wiring connector, I pushed the retainer clip in with a screwdriver while twisting to disconnect the plug. Simply raise the sub and pull it through the deck lip opening. Take care not to puncture it.
That's it. I hope this helps.
On a similar note, did anyone install an aftermarket sub and leave in their original factory sub? I left my passthrough open and I'm considering putting the factory sub back in to see if I can get back more mid bass.
I'm stuck on step 5. It seems like the deck is stuck there. Do I need to unscrew or unclip anything? No matter where I try to lift it from, it just won't come out....
01-15-08 | 12:02 PM
#22
Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: TX
You don't need to remove the deck. Just pry the front of it open and leave it attached in the rear (at the base of the back window). Assuming you have the seat-back off, pry near the seam (lip) of the deck, starting on one side. Pry it open slightly enough (it won't give much) so you can shine a flashlight through the slit to find the white clips. Then pry at the location of those clips to pop them. I used a foot long, flat-head screwdriver to pry the clips. They are all that holds it down..
It's important to pry under the recessed clips because if you pry at the lip of the deck, it may crack.
It's important to pry under the recessed clips because if you pry at the lip of the deck, it may crack.
Last edited by jejagua; 01-15-08 at 12:08 PM. Reason: Spelling correction
01-15-08 | 12:05 PM
#23
Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: TX
Let's close this thread...and refer to the other:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...50#post3191050
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...50#post3191050
01-15-08 | 01:04 PM
#24
Driver
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
From: TX
12-25-13 | 10:45 AM
#27
You might want to subscribe to www.alldatadiy.com. I looked up the instructions for the rear speaker and they are very detailed, but I have a convertible so the instructions for my car are totally different.
Merry Christmas everybody!
Merry Christmas everybody!
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