subs affecting my performance
#1
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yoyoyo.....just noticed when my subs hit really hard, my rmp gauge fluctuates down every single time.....will this hurt my engine???? can i do anything to prevent this other than turning down my bass???
#2
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if i had to guess this sounds like its the voltage that its pulling at heavy loads. do you have a cap or anything to back up what you have added?? i had this in cars in the past where i put in aftermarket systmens. maybe this isn the issue but i would maybe go to a install place and check or go purchase a Volt meter and see if that is what the issue is.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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yeah...i can really feel it when im idle, but hardly at all when im driving........so i need heavier gauge wire that handles more wattage????
and i dont have a cap
its not a huge problem that it does this..i just dont want it to affect my engine in the long run.....
and i dont have a cap
its not a huge problem that it does this..i just dont want it to affect my engine in the long run.....
#5
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it will drain your battery and the life of it. agree with the wires, try that first if you are not running 4gage wires then do this first. i am not sure how our cars handles aftermarket sytems. i had a Toyota MR2 when i was in high school and i had a system in that and didnt need to do anything other then run good quality wires. you have a quality product and its new so this may work. worst case if i recall a cap is about 50$ or it was when i got one, check ebay and make sure you charge it up first before you install. go to stereo shop if you are not sure of how to do this.
this will fix the problem.
this will fix the problem.
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#9
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Seriously, even a yellow top can't handle the continuous pull from a decent amp. That's what the cap is there for.
Don't get a cap = bye bye battery, alternator and god knows what else will be screwed up on your electrical system.
Who did this install?!?!
I haven't touched this stuff in about 8 years and I still know you need a cap.
#10
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DO NOT GET A CAPACITOR!!! First of all, upgrade your ground wire. If that doesn't help, upgrade your wiring in the engine. By that I mean get some 1/0 AWG wire, run one wire from the Alternator Postive to the BAttery Positive. Battery Negative to Chassis, Chassis to engine block. IF the wiring upgrade doesn't help, upgrade your battery, the Alternator should be the last upgrade if everythign else fail.
A capacitor is a waste of money. Ask any true audio enthusiast, they will tell you the same thing. I don't want to get into why a cap is a waste of money but in lay man saying, a cap isn't the samething as a battery. Putting a cap in there does more harm than good, it'll put more stress on your alternator. All a cap does is to store electricity. If you alternator is weak, where are you going to get electricity to store? A capacitor is all for show, go do some more research before you decide to put one in there.
A capacitor is a waste of money. Ask any true audio enthusiast, they will tell you the same thing. I don't want to get into why a cap is a waste of money but in lay man saying, a cap isn't the samething as a battery. Putting a cap in there does more harm than good, it'll put more stress on your alternator. All a cap does is to store electricity. If you alternator is weak, where are you going to get electricity to store? A capacitor is all for show, go do some more research before you decide to put one in there.
#11
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Without knowing more about your system and install, your issue sounds like it's caused by asking for more power than your alternator can deliver at idle.
You're noticing the drain more at idle because the alternator puts out it's nominal output over 2000 rpms (in most cases), not at 750 rpms.
Give us some more info on your amp and what gauge wiring was used for the install. Unless you're running over 1200 watts rms, you won't need 1/0 gauge wiring.
A capacitor isn't going to help at all and will actually hurt performance. If people understood how they work, they would understand that they're meant to augment a complete and adequate power supply and not as a a bandaid for dimming lights/stuttering engines.
You're noticing the drain more at idle because the alternator puts out it's nominal output over 2000 rpms (in most cases), not at 750 rpms.
Give us some more info on your amp and what gauge wiring was used for the install. Unless you're running over 1200 watts rms, you won't need 1/0 gauge wiring.
A capacitor isn't going to help at all and will actually hurt performance. If people understood how they work, they would understand that they're meant to augment a complete and adequate power supply and not as a a bandaid for dimming lights/stuttering engines.
#13
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DO NOT GET A CAPACITOR!!! First of all, upgrade your ground wire. If that doesn't help, upgrade your wiring in the engine. By that I mean get some 1/0 AWG wire, run one wire from the Alternator Postive to the BAttery Positive. Battery Negative to Chassis, Chassis to engine block. IF the wiring upgrade doesn't help, upgrade your battery, the Alternator should be the last upgrade if everythign else fail.
A capacitor is a waste of money. Ask any true audio enthusiast, they will tell you the same thing. I don't want to get into why a cap is a waste of money but in lay man saying, a cap isn't the samething as a battery. Putting a cap in there does more harm than good, it'll put more stress on your alternator. All a cap does is to store electricity. If you alternator is weak, where are you going to get electricity to store? A capacitor is all for show, go do some more research before you decide to put one in there.
A capacitor is a waste of money. Ask any true audio enthusiast, they will tell you the same thing. I don't want to get into why a cap is a waste of money but in lay man saying, a cap isn't the samething as a battery. Putting a cap in there does more harm than good, it'll put more stress on your alternator. All a cap does is to store electricity. If you alternator is weak, where are you going to get electricity to store? A capacitor is all for show, go do some more research before you decide to put one in there.
Installed a 1000 watt amp 2 JL 12's, heavy guage wire (can't remember what size, but it was overkill) and killed my battery and alternator within a month.
After a cap, ran it for another 2 years before I sold it without a problem. Back then a cap pulled a lower continuous amount of juice and saved your electrical system from putting everything it had left over into the subs. Instead of drawing huge amounts of charge from your battery everytime it goes thump, it pulls from the cap. Maybe things have changed since then
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Edit: installed yellow top when I bought the car and kept it after the cap, there was dimming/etc before the cap & not after.
#15
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it's long but read it, it explains why you shouldn't use a cap
http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/sh...ad.php?t=17970
http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/sh...ad.php?t=17970