Koz

As far as break-in, it’s done however; there are high levels of debris circulating in the system that will need several changes to fully remove. So, I suggest you get your freebees (oil change, search TSIB). This will give you an extra change before switching to synthetic. If you want to extend your OIC (oil change interval) I suggest you use premium group IV synthetic such as (my personal favorites) Amsoil 0w-20 or the re-formulated 0w-30. The reasons why I chose these oils, they have proven to hold a safe TBN number for a minimum of 10K miles in many Toyota/Lexus engines. You can analyze the oil to determine how long you can safely run that oil. A member here ran the factory fill 10K miles (*****) and it was still safe. This indicates that the 3.5 is gentle on oil and you should be able to safely extend the OCI. Considering that the IS engines have VVTi which uses the motor oil as the media to actuate the variable cams, I feel a low temp high flow oil is also a big plus.

If you intend to run the OEM recommended 5K mile OCI you can use just about anything within the recommended viscosities.

Koz

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

TBN number? You working for the department of redundancy department or what? Do you actually know what TBN stands for and means? Or why it's important?

There's an incredible amount of misinformation and religion surrounding oil. Most of what you hear is absolutely BS.

If you've fully broken in your engine (run at full load for at least 30 seconds) then you can change to any oil you like and you'll be fine. And you don't need German oil to adequately protect your engine at US speeds. It's again a bunch of crap foisted on an unsuspecting public.

Jay.Diem

iTrader: (1)

AMEN!

weesped

iTrader: (8)

0w-20? hummm. is that really a good one for our is's, im going to take my car in for a oil change in about a week n i was about to go pick up some amsoil 5w-20 cause it seemed as if thats what every one uses. any info u could give on the differences between the 2? and would u recommend the 0w or the 5w(oil idiot here)

ViEtNaStEe

Just pick up a 5qt jug of Mobil 1 at walmart for around $24.

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

The reason I am not going to the dealer is because the dealer near me is incompetent. And, I can change the oil faster than I wait for them to change it for me, without the worry of curbing the wheels etc. I don't care about the oil and filter material cost. Took them all day to do the brake TSIB and they simply put in the exact same pads and not the updated ones. So I am just going to put in pads of my choice when the time comes.

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

Lobuxracer do you mean full load for 30 seconds consecutively? That would reach some speed on public roads.

Simply looked at the oil at 3500 miles color and smell wise I think it could use a change.

Joeb427

iTrader: (1)

Amsoil 5w30 here.

Koz

If this post is directed at me please say so. If it is, I don't understand or appreciate your condescending tone. Apparently you feel that I posted misinformation. If so, please enlighten us. I know fully well what the TBN is and how useful it is if you plan on extending your OCI (that’s why I mentioned it). If you feel this is BS, then again, enlighten us. I read your posts (which most are very good) and wonder why/how you can make these statements. Do you believe that you simply run an engine at full load, for 30 seconds, and it is broken-in? Do you believe that high-way speeds dictate the need for premium oil?

Koz

4TehNguyen

iTrader: (1)

break in mileage according to the manual is only 600 miles so you are past break in

do an oil analysis and get a TBN reading and blackstone can tell you how long your oil can really run

Koz

The OEM recommended viscosity for the IS is 5w-20. 0w-20 is a direct replacement for 5w-20 that offers a lower temp pour point. Since most engine wear accrues during start-up the lower pour point will slightly speed up oil delivery to the vital areas of the engine. Also there is a better additive package in this oil. If you look at the spec sheets for these two oils you will see the differences (that's why it cost a little more). If you want the best oil for extended oil changes, I feel this is it.

Koz

Audiofan2

Funny, I was thinking of this thread today while doing my 5th oil change. I did all the usual steps, backed the car off the rams, let it run for a minute, then shut it off and popped the hood to check the oil evel.

A huge pool of new syn. oil had come out from my car. I freaked out, started the car, pulled back up on the ramps, then shut it off. Looking underneath I discovered oil pouring from the filter area.

*****VERY IMPORTANT*****

What I did wrong was to slide the new rubber o ring to far down, thus creating a rubber ring bumper that was visible after tightening the housing cover. I slid off the o ring, it was stretched out so I grabbed another new one and put it on properly. It should go almost all the way so that it ends up just lower than the metal ring with the 1/2" breaks in it. A stupid mistake that cost me hours cleaning up (and $27 in syn. oil).

i3urton

i would wait til 10k miles to switch out to the good stuff...

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

TBN - Total Base Number. Saying TBN number is like saying ATM machine - why would anyone say automated teller machine machine? This is in the same class as rpms. What are rpms? RPM is revolutions per minute, so rpms is revolutions per minutes? How many minutes? It makes no sense.

It is only one factor when determining OCI. All TBN tells you is how much base is left in the oil to neutralize acids formed as byproducts of combustion. It really is NOT the determining factor for how long the oil can be safely run.

Viscosity breakdown, total element content - particularly iron, and fuel/coolant contamination rates highly trump TBN for determining OCI. Ask Blackstone. I had a long conversation with them about my results on more than one occasion.