Sub 2.0 60 feet times
11-10-07, 06:13 PM
#46
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Thread Starter
Oh, I also measured my tread depth - the rear tires are at 6/32". They're pretty worn down compared to the fronts. I'm about 3/32 away from the depth markers. I suppose in theory a more worn out tire has less rotational inertia and better gearing.
11-10-07, 08:38 PM
#47
Great info! Thx! What region are you located in, near Chicago?
Last edited by ES3; 11-10-07 at 08:46 PM.
11-26-07, 08:22 PM
#48
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
Hey, I just checked out my corrected time for my bet et of 13.228 and it comes out to be 13.34 or so. My previous one was 13.4 so based on this info and the only difference being weight - I would have to say 100 pounds approx 1/10 of a second or so for corrected times.
ES3, your best was also a 13.3 or so and I think Oblivionis corrected is also a 13.3. I'm starting to see a similarity here... It seems STOCK IS350's corrected times with optimal traction run about 13.3. Every 100 pound under stock will yield about 1/10 less.
ES3, your best was also a 13.3 or so and I think Oblivionis corrected is also a 13.3. I'm starting to see a similarity here... It seems STOCK IS350's corrected times with optimal traction run about 13.3. Every 100 pound under stock will yield about 1/10 less.
11-26-07, 08:28 PM
#49
Hey, I just checked out my corrected time for my bet et of 13.228 and it comes out to be 13.34 or so. My previous one was 13.4 so based on this info and the only difference being weight - I would have to say 100 pounds approx 1/10 of a second or so for corrected times.
ES3, your best was also a 13.3 or so and I think Oblivionis corrected is also a 13.3. I'm starting to see a similarity here... It seems STOCK IS350's corrected times with optimal traction run about 13.3. Every 100 pound under stock will yield about 1/10 less.
ES3, your best was also a 13.3 or so and I think Oblivionis corrected is also a 13.3. I'm starting to see a similarity here... It seems STOCK IS350's corrected times with optimal traction run about 13.3. Every 100 pound under stock will yield about 1/10 less.
Actually it would be fun to get this car into the 12's, but beyond bone dry stock, I'm not sure we'll beat a corrected 13.3. 
Still, that ain't too awful bad!
11-26-07, 08:29 PM
#50
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
I'm not trying to discredit Caymandiver in anyway, but an analysis of his record 12.8 run shows that a corrected run with his conditions was a 13.06. His run is about 3/10 faster than our stock ones... but his car seems about 200 pounds less than mine - mine is over 3700 with me in it (never weighed, but curb weight is 35xx and I'm close to 200) which accounts for about 2/10 and his mods for another 1/10. Hey, we might have a general formula to predict our performance before we even go to a track!!! Next year, I might take a 400 pound weight and run it to see if I run a 13.7 corrected time. That should be interesting...
11-26-07, 08:43 PM
#51
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
Actually, we don't have to have 400 pound weights to figure this problem out. We can use physics. Anybody want to crunch some formulas? First of all, we need to know the actual thrust per mph so we can figure out work because work = force (thrust) x distance. Once we can figure out the total work or energy than we can simply use E=1/2 MV^2. Sure, we can add the rotational energy of our spinning wheels but assuming all our wheels are similar in weight we can just give that a constant. Working backwards, we know mass and velocity so we can figure out our energy. Once we figure out this Energy (which should be less than the W=FD method due to rotating energy) we can subtract the two energy and figure out exactly how much energy is spent on rotational energy.
Okay, now we have rotational energy and can use that as a constant (even though it really isn't - but the difference is probably negligible). We can derive a formula to predict our Velocity by simply plugging in different weights. Once we have velocity, we can figure out our trap times by using V^2 = 2AD and D=1/2 AT^2 We can figure out what A is and plug A into the second equation and we can solve for T. I don't have pen and paper - anybody want to figure this equation out? Now, if you want to really get fancy, you can plug in temperature and other conditions and and have a formula that will predict what your ET will be. Oh crap... these formulas already exist? LOL Oh well... it was a good refresher from my old HS days.
Okay, now we have rotational energy and can use that as a constant (even though it really isn't - but the difference is probably negligible). We can derive a formula to predict our Velocity by simply plugging in different weights. Once we have velocity, we can figure out our trap times by using V^2 = 2AD and D=1/2 AT^2 We can figure out what A is and plug A into the second equation and we can solve for T. I don't have pen and paper - anybody want to figure this equation out? Now, if you want to really get fancy, you can plug in temperature and other conditions and and have a formula that will predict what your ET will be. Oh crap... these formulas already exist? LOL Oh well... it was a good refresher from my old HS days.
11-26-07, 09:33 PM
#52
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I go around the water. I don't even back into it. I Go around, then I just gently spin the tires - I don't floor it or anything. The RPM probably doesn't get past 3-4K in first gear. I just do enough (2-3 seconds) to get the grime and dirt off. I don't think I'm really heating up the tires. Then I stage.
With regards to the heater and other accessories. I've got them all off the whole time. Like I said, I used to make a big deal about keeping the engine cool and opening the hood and turning the engine off, but being an 06, VDIM disable is a pain so I'd just rather leave it on. Last Sunday, the car didn't have much of a chance to idle at all. I'd run, cruise 30 mph back to the start and wait 1 minute stage and run again and again.
Maybe our IS350's aren't as sensitive as the old big block muscle cars/drag cars? Honestly, I'm just a toothdoc - I'm not a mechanic or drag racer specialist.
However, if it doesn't rain this Sunday, I'll do the same thing but for the 2nd half of my runs, I'll try 28 PSI just out of curiosity.
With regards to the heater and other accessories. I've got them all off the whole time. Like I said, I used to make a big deal about keeping the engine cool and opening the hood and turning the engine off, but being an 06, VDIM disable is a pain so I'd just rather leave it on. Last Sunday, the car didn't have much of a chance to idle at all. I'd run, cruise 30 mph back to the start and wait 1 minute stage and run again and again.
Maybe our IS350's aren't as sensitive as the old big block muscle cars/drag cars? Honestly, I'm just a toothdoc - I'm not a mechanic or drag racer specialist.
However, if it doesn't rain this Sunday, I'll do the same thing but for the 2nd half of my runs, I'll try 28 PSI just out of curiosity.
“start the car with the parking brake on ….then foot brake twice….(keep the foot brake down)….then parking brake twice (keep it down )and repeat till skid light is on the dash…..it will reset when you restart the car”...
does this mean that you are actually foot braking twice and then pushing it down again before moving on to the parking brake or do you leave the brake down on the second foot brake?
Last edited by Dodge2Dub; 11-26-07 at 10:18 PM.
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